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Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
you are telling me. scaled it all properly for the veroma tracks and idlers.
here is a better idea of how it is going to sit. their sprocket uses 8mm bore but i will run 6mm like the idler and sleeve bearing it in the middle so it comes out to 8. then use the set screw to cap onto the 6mm shaft itself (my chain sprockets and hubs et all are 6mm so thats why going 8 would be harder than going from 6 to 8 on the sprocket itself). and a bunch of other boring stuff nobody cares about that i will be working around in the coming weeks. http://i.imgur.com/lSKixVJ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LaxJB3e.jpg 14" long by 12" wide (outside to outside of tracks). I love oversized demolition bodies and that's what i am making. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
I like how you have it all closed up, keeps the foriegn material out of the track links. http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/ima...ilies/nice.gif
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Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
http://i.imgur.com/hiqBHA0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IlMF6Yw.jpg as you can see i am short on rollers and stuff..... (ordered last night) but you get the idea. the bolts i'll have to cut because they are partially threaded and thats the only lenght that would work for me (45mm total). the plug fasteners which would be way better only come in imperial and i need metric. bugger that. no its not imperial i can adapt either. something stupid like 1/8 1/4 etc. nothing close to 4mm. i could also go with 4mm shafting and collars but cutting those hardened shafts is a pita. and thats a lot of shafts! i'll try the bolts first. 8.8 steel is not too bad to cut actually. i think i'll call it a day now. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
I drank some coffee so decided to get some more done. I have been racking my head around the turntable for a while but i refuse to spend 400$ on the one from fumotec. besides, i cannot because my body upper plate is already drilled for the 3/8-1/2" bore .770 pattern. And that plate is drilled for the hydros and for the ballast. No go changing that really. Too much pain at this stage.
Anyhow my original turntable worked just fine, alas it was too tall and too long (and close to 5", which i cut down to 4 initially). scouring my usual sources i found nothing better, thus it was time to just go for it. Cut the height to 1/3 original and shortened it so it's a square. will machine finetune and smooth cuts tomorrow when it stops raining. Can't handle the metal dust indoors anymore. I will have to make new flush mounts and also load distributing mounts but thats to be expected. I tried to make it internal chain drive and get rid of the big gear on top, but couldn't fit the sprocket inside by 2mm! Still might do it with another mount hub. http://i.imgur.com/hXEJ2OG.jpg next to a standard cap for size. http://i.imgur.com/3Ko1Csj.jpg GROUND CLEARANCE! At this height i barely clear the top tracks so i can create a proper V pattern main section. Will take some creativity as it will house the 2 batteries, receiver, esc, worm gear drive, 2 track servos (i am going chain drive to track sprockets, 2:1 reduction for 400+ oz torque). Waiting on the worm motor from china; have all the rest. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
can you give a link or details on the worm drive from hong kong?
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Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
it's just a gearbox motor with a worm box instead of a planetary like what you generally see with these.
its nice because it isn't tall saving you space so you can have a flat undercarriage, also its worm gear so you dont need esc hold function to prevent turret from spinning or momentum from taking over. its not nice because they are rather low torque compared to planetary rpm per rpm but with worm gears that's not really a big factor. you can't really stall them like you can with bevels/pinions http://www.ebay.com/itm/12vdc-44rpm-...1185b9&vxp=mtr I drew up the main plate today but didn't cut it. however once i overlaid it, it got me thinking. There is a new product out there like a 1" tall gearmotor that makes crazy torque @ 90rpm (70oz). I am going to fiddle with 4 of these along with 6t pinions. Currently im running a single 77oz motor and am able to push dugged up earth sideways quite easy.... but i want more. so i figure i'll quadruple the power if this idea work, AND have even more space left over. if that doesn't work i'll go with the worm drive. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Decided to finish up my box today... Halfway in drilling the 2nd plate (out of 4) my extrator drill bit snaps.. the standard ones won't even dent the 2" deep plates...
So thats it for now. I'll have them sloping when im done. Holes are recessed bored so i can use sturdy socket heads instead of the snapping pan heads. http://i.imgur.com/xJK2Qwy.jpg |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
http://i.imgur.com/C5VnuCn.jpg
box is done, tracks mounted.. all lines up perfect. i was measuring within .5mm accuracy. i figured any more and it would be an overkill. but i think i came to less than that at the end. and yes thats 3/8 alum plates. this width allows me to recess the screws properly. still need to decide on the slant angle (you can see it drawn out roughly) and slot out the chain drive zones. more on those later. also bought a tekin fxr pro to replace the chinese esc. it worked fine but for some reason it thinks anything over 80% is 100% rpm... so anyway, bought a new one. really not many options for brushed motors left out there it seems. my new bearings for the turntable (abec5) and motors are due today.. assuming usps didnt forget to load them on the truck this morning. i may or may not make a reinforced turntable mount. Won't know until <-- these parts get here today and i get to measure it all with the pinions attached |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Finished the turntable, mounted the motors. I feel i nailed the speed and torque this time around.
Added a reinforcement plate to eliminate any main floor twist during stress on the carriage Redid the mount on the body section. I decided i needed to simplify the way to separate the 2 halves since it was a complete nightmare when i went to pull and reattach last night. Too much weight, too many hoses in the way etc. Now the whole gear and shaft pull out. In my quest of making this serviceable, i noticed i will have to rip off vario and make a riser plate for the hydraulics on top of the floor. this way i can remove that instead of going under the body and unscrewing each component. Still deciding on what method to use to make the hoses detachable from the block. those quick disconnects at 8 euro each i dont really trust. looks like leaks waiting to happen. might just go with the hose couplers; those dont have the sharp barbs so you can pull the hose off them easily. ordered a few liters of oil and some other stuff the other day. atop of my tracks still being in the mail. german post is taking their time after breaking all records and getting here in 4 days the other time. might also be a good time to order my premacon wide bucket. they say 2 weeks lead time but i dont know if i want to trust that.. also if anybody knows of better options let me know. im new to the whole contruction thing so my sources are limited. now that i have it all apart i can do some painting on those parts i didnt get to before and then photos. i started on the body panels but scrapped that as im still changing the height. i thought of making it out of metal, and even bought some parts but... i dont know. i'll probably just stick to styrene. i doubt i have the desire to drag that out any longer. already put my other toys on hold and with summer coming fast down here, i need my offroaders working. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Make a one piece body like the Vario that easily lifted, I luv that feature! everything wide open in easy view to tinker. ;)
You gotta get busy building a dumptrk fella! :D |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Yep it will be one piece. Decided on that months ago. Which is why my upper section looks a bit weird still
Made the 2 platforms. One for the hydros and one for the electronics so they wont get soaked during future leaks. Started working on the main boom details, namely the edge extrusions. Im adding those as beads just for looks and might make caps around the ram attachment points. Meanwhile here is a little preview of what else i am doing. Wrapping it all with 1/8 plates. I tried to weld them last night but too much heat warped stuff up so i gave up on that. I'll just screw them and finish the joints/edges with epoxy. That's why i spent little time making neat joints. I am doing this just for fun so when you touch it, it's cold. when you crash it against something, it scratches realistically. http://i.imgur.com/IdVol5l.jpg Cut and covered the undercarriage. Forgot to snap a pic of that, too lazy to go back down so next time. Tracked up one side as well. 62 track pads per side... or 930mm. 1860mm in tracks altogether. I am further adjusting the attachment between the 2 sections (body/undercarriage). I'll be pushing 40lbs now when done, vs my old 25lbs. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Made the huge mistake of ordering from onlinemetals.. a week to ship and they are drop shipping each piece on its own from all over the country. no tracking #s either. they just show at the door at random. never again. scammers.
on the flip side, 3rd order from mcmaster this week came in today so i could get some more work done.. http://i.imgur.com/IEx2hz3.jpg Spent about 2 days making the boom pretty.... im also working on the stick but that is drying so no photos. Still needs a few more coats (got too cold, had to stop painting), some decals and then a clearcoat just to seal decals in. http://i.imgur.com/iyJK6e5.jpg decided the track boogies looked too much like a ww1 tank so i added some metal to bulge the outside a bit.... still working on the final shape but it also allows me to hide the cross bolts... http://i.imgur.com/eBU63p8.jpg progressing on building out the lower body. the screw holes i'll probably fill in when all is said and done. they aren't even since i don't want to risk seam splitting even though i drilled them out quite well. http://i.imgur.com/A9iwTvU.jpg the center carriage section... i tried to weld the 2 sides to the top but too much heat.. however i figured out how to attach them. i will show you later. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
The only time you will see the turntable mounting gear and spurs.
http://i.imgur.com/l2dg3yI.jpg i have so much clean up to do its not funny.. I should have really just scrapped the original parts and cut new ones. but too late for that, so i'll waste my time cleaning up and making covers.. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
I think its looking great so far!!! Awesome work
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Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Well this was supposed to be a conversion.. hah!
Started building my own 10oz oil tank. The aim is to be able to dig with the machine tilted at 45d in any direction and not suck air in the pump port. After wondering of a way to be able to connect an external tank to the pump, it was a no go. It is some weird square bevelled intake port and the return ports are some odd size too.. no go there. Then i began playing with dubro tanks and the faucet and came up with a design that will keep the intake oiled at all angles i can throw at it. After a few weeks the jb weld shows no reaction to the oil (its watered down toy hydro oil anyway, bet you it can live inside styrene as well - my next experiment!) so i can use that to weld and seal the new tank... I was thinking .090 plates but went with .040 to maximize capacity. It's plenty strong. More later after i go to mcmaster tomorrow. I only got a few pieces cut tonight before i ran out of .040 sheeting. Speaking of that, finished the .125 encasting of the body and couterweight and began filling in the screw holes. Liking the way its coming out. A bit like a mining excavator but not quite. Also began cutting out the channels for the chain drives. got my chain resizer in as well. Also building my own bucket. I have to start keeping costs down, this is out of control. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
http://i.imgur.com/3JqCxcO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CKLWxKD.jpg I am fitting in each plate and when i have it all lined up up i'll cut the teeth out of the front and then seam weld any gaps and grind smooth. Then i'll make and attach the side scoops and what have you not. Since i cannot extrude or bend metal, i am forced to piece it together. What a monumental pain drilling and tapping all that...... Although screwing them in allows me to remove each and adjust as needed. I thought about making the teeth removable but (like a tooth comb), i dont think i'll wear these out so scrapped that idea. Width is 90mm inside and lenght.. not even sure. Probably scales up to 6cubic yards if we assume bruder went with the biggest 2.5cy bucket in their model. Also worked some more on the cab. I should start on the rock guards soon and then i can paint and attach the glass. ps. also remade the turntable motor mounts last night and cut out the chain holes through the chassis. mounting the servos will be a bit tricky since im blind holing it.. the bigger mounts wouldn't fit so i have to blind drill from the bottom so to speak.. there are ways around that but just fiddly.. so fiddly. i was actually off by 1 .2mm shim on the turntable motors for a perfect side to side symmetry. not bad for eyballing it! one side took 2 .2mm shims and the other 1 to get the same gear mesh. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
http://i.imgur.com/JP6DNZN.jpg
the rough cut on the rake. going to finish it up tomorrow in the light. the teeth and the space in between them is slanted. i think i'll sharpen it all to a very child unfriendly degree....... screwed in and welded the rest of the bucket, except this piece here. once i finish it up, its going in and getting seamed in. then attach my mount and call it a day. should do it tomorrow. my latest batch of stuff from germany made it in today so yay. have to pick it up tomorrow. deburred and resealed the control valve. 4mmX1mm seals on the plungers. if it still leaks... i'll be upset. but not too much, as i am thinking of upgrading to the 5 valve one. ps. 3rd broken tap. 3mm is a nightmare to tap apparently due to size. at 8$ each it gets old fast. i am not getting any chip clearing really, so i have to back in and out little by little till its all threaded in. each time clean the debris out of the hole. if you go a hair too deep at once it snaps, usually on the counterspin.. blind holes, no issue with through holes. also need to go pick up some more of that awesome hitachi orange from ace. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
http://i.imgur.com/Ah06NcU.jpg
began making my own coupler.. I could just mount the bucket directly like last time but couplers are cool. I am mounting first, then trimming when needed and then trimming for looks. Enjoy the squareness until i get to that stage :) Also redid the articulation links. I toyed with the idea of cutting a new H link out of solid metal, but im trying to keep weight down at this point. So i just used some standoffs to bolts between the 2 links and make a lightweight, althought not scale looking H link. It will do. http://i.imgur.com/JYxV6h3.jpg As you see i have to cut and regrind the stick yet again. needs more taken off the underside. Originally i didn't even have space for washers between the mount points. Which resulted in my paint getting all scratched up where there was contact. Now i am leaving enough space for at least 1mm shims on either side. Just little things here and there i suppose. This brings me to adventures in metalworking. I am a total beginner in that but im figuring things out. Not a fan of the bucket screws but they will stay for strenght. I alumiwelded the gaps and what not between the pieces then grinded it down smooth. Put a coat of filler (still to sand that) over to cover any microcracks and prevent water from freezing in when i leave it outside.. Because it will happen. Now alumiweld is something like solder mixed with liquid aluminum. It is weird, it doesn't behave like solder and is really made out as a filler and not as a structural weld due to its hit or miss bonding. You can bead it and parts will grip like crazy and other sections won't; it appears it is very sensitive to heat both on it and on the surface. Underheating or overheating will not let it stick properly or at all. That's why i am leaving the screws in. Anyhow, it is cheap compared to the specialty metal filled epoxies at 60$/oz. You can tap it even. It is just weird to apply and has selective adhesion (or very specific application needs which looking at the array of videos, nobody has quite figured out yet). For the price i am happy with it and it got me the rounded shape i wanted. I dont know if i will add the side flaps on the bucket. I started putting in a little cuve and might just extend that. As i said, weight that far out is adding up. I still have to add the mounts to the bucket itself so more weight. PS. i wanted to make a bucket, i may still get a premacon one. But unless you make it yourself, how will you learn right... |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
ps. 3rd broken tap. 3mm is a nightmare to tap apparently due to size. at 8$ each it gets old fast. i am not getting any chip clearing really, so i have to back in and out little by little till its all threaded in. each time clean the debris out of the hole. if you go a hair too deep at once it snaps, usually on the counterspin.. blind holes, no issue with through holes.
What size tap drill are you using? look at your chart, go for 80% or less thread's, to help prevent the tap's from binding and breaking. Hopefully the pro's will chime in on this! Cheer's, Neil. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
2.5mm which is what is recommended on the tap list.
used 2.7 as well but wasn't happy with the thread bite. it was certainly easier going tho |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Quote:
Cheer's, Neil. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Alum is soft and doesnt generate enough heat to use oil (especially the alloys i am using).. dont need it do i.. i mean i dont know, wouldnt think so.
Had to cut painting short today, rain is annoying. But i did get a few coats on my bucket and coupler, still needs more. im still contemplating if i want to just complete the curve cut, make lower side scoops or both. i can do either at any point now so i'll worry about it later. http://i.imgur.com/ZXF57p0.jpg would have done the lower body/base as well if weather cooperated. it's ready for paint now also shimmed one track with all rollers and returns. i need to cut a few more shafts for the idler and sprocket. but i did get both sprockets sleeved from 8mm to 6mm shaft. it was a slight pain because i had to get the set screw holes to line without bending or destroying the sleeve. drill press was a no go. finishing up the cab, newish hydro tank and what not. im trying to do one thing every day without adding 2 more on the to do list. good news is i can cheat under the excuse of this being my first const build. convenient :) |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
http://i.imgur.com/Eyt1Kmu.jpg
figuring out the proper lenght.. waiting on some spacers around the roller bolts. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
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Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
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Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Just curious... what does your boom/stick/bucket weigh all together?
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Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
5lbs before the hoses, fittings, cyls and fluid.
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Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
That's pretty heavy! I think most of your problem with surging oil out of your tank is from letting the boom drop too fast (just b/c how heavy the boom is). You could limit valve opening by lowering epa rotation considerably, then you won't have such a rush of oil filling the tank.
My 850's boom is really heavy (didn't weigh it) and I limited the epa on the down to 60% , plus careful control on the tx. Also, I use Suflo cutting oil from Gunk for all drilling, milling, threading of aluminum, keeps the alloy from sticking/gumming up the bits. I have never broken a 3mm tap, and I use a 18v Milwaukee drill to make a quick job of it. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
the boom is actually weight balanced at the lift point pivot. stick and bucket throw it off though. can't really balance for that
it's surging because the original leim was designed for cyls 1/3 to 1/2 of what i am using. and for less of them. just not enough space for the fluid to go when the pistons push in. then when they push out, you have to keep it full past the 3/4 (more like 10/12) to avoid the pickup from getting dry, since the pickup is really 1/3 off the bottom. so really the design is only 1/3 of the tank being usable - pathetic! the one that is in the wedico is the big version, both in tank and pump ml/m. however that is not available outside wedico kits.. that tank is actually as big as what i have right now, and still not enough. i've fixed that with a yet another expansion of the fluid tank. (total 3x original capacity). i wanted to make a 10oz tank and started cutting it out, but as i lay the pieces together noticed that would have really thrown off my canopy and made it way unscale. so i dropped that idea for a yet another expansion of the miniscule oem one. will try the oil for future taps. just that only time i used it is with carbide bits into hard steel due to heat. never even thought about aluminum, especially with hand tapping (tried machine tapping too but very hard to control blind holes) i might have to limit the epa on the downward now. good idea |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
I use "rapid tap" the aluminum version for both drilling and tapping.
Cheer's, Neil. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
I have enough scrap blocks to play with. Though i am pretty much done with tapping for this project.
Worked some on the cab... my mini dubro hinges arrived so with some trimming, they will work great. Meanwhile decided i would assemble and paint this thing here because i wanted to. Then i decided i would sand parts of it.... I'll recoat with a lighter paint on the inside. http://i.imgur.com/0oqpzCw.jpg |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
http://i.imgur.com/myyEyAn.jpg
began making my cab guard.. if i can find them, i will mount some cool lights under the ledge. leds i can fit, its the casings that will be an issue finding that small that look good (or i could just make my own, fiddly but if it has to be done... hmm!). not sure if i want to make a front piece or just the top one. once i mount and offset this one i'll decide. gotta love shrinking putty but i found that the tamiya one, once it shrinks, it doesnt deform over time and it really sticks great to the styrene. so i just overply it/layer it till it fills up. looks scary i know! there is no floor because the floor will be a separate piece. this way i can take it out and maybe do an interior at some point. although i really want to put in a wireless camera in there so i can dig from the comfort of my home...... then again, i can just make 2 floors. 1 with interior, the other with FPV and exchange them as needed. but i am getting ahead of myself. i forgot to mention, my replacement seals came in. i actually got in 2 orders before they arrived. took like 2 months. figured i would mention that before i forget. deutche post is weirdddddddddddd. sometimes 4 days (really!), and then 8 weeks. Another correction for those who actually read everything. the drive servos are rated at 212OZ/17RPM @6v, not at 100ish as previously noted. I think i was mixing them with the parallax which i also have (weak crap). Im running a 2:1 reduction now so that should be plenty unless i want to do pivots on carpet; that won't cut it i am sure. takes an assisine amount of power to achieve that/ but we wont be pivoting on the carpet anyhow. my turntable motors are 70oz each @ 90rpm, running a 1:14 reduction. there is 2 of them. bench tests with a 1.5v battery made them into a grinder. i have no doubt i'll tear the boom off before they stall with 12v. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
http://i.imgur.com/O3ZvvAu.jpg
thats all done. now to make the casings around it, lube chain up again (had to wash most of the factory gunk as it was unhandleable) and give it a new dull coat of paint. i had to make so many slots to get it all to fit right. got it all scratched up in the process. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
After leaving the upper body out in the rain and ice for a few days i found a few seams that need attention. While my cool new hardcore filler dries i tackled the carriage wiring yet again. Still need to connect the turntable motors and the little plug next to the switch is the charge connection. Still thinking of a good place to put the on/off switch and charge plug.. Every single component is independent and can be unplugged and replaced when the time comes. Finally found some JST connectors with soft wire so bending it all and tieing as needed is not an issue. That's why i left planty of slack on each wire. Also i dont think i'll even connect the balance leads.. I can't imagine the cells getting out of balance with the pitifull amp draw they will facilitate.
Also the chains are not rusted in the photo above. That's from my torch flash drying them to prevent rust. Some of the left over factory gunk grease just burned :) http://i.imgur.com/ZMprZL9.jpg Also colorsanded and clearcoated the boom last night. Will not do the stick as that will take a beating anyway. Also played with the pressure screw on the pump. Not sure what i set it at.. 15bar? Let's see what breaks/leaks. From weighting parts so far it seems i am going to be right at my new target weight of 40lbs. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
While waiting on parts i did a few things... worked on the undercarriage, figured how to make the chain covers and where and how to put the power sw and charging jack. also spent some time folding cables. i have more space than i thought i would in there now.
i'll spare the details on that until it is done. mounted the cylinders. The joints are sleeved and greased but if they ever do wear out, just insert new sleeves and ready to go. http://i.imgur.com/FMs3eNj.jpg it is heavy. somewhat of a concern really but will know soon enough if i overdid the bucket. http://i.imgur.com/sowW9Sy.jpg the metal encasing came out quite well. not machine precise but unless you stare, all angles look good. i had massive issues with the seams here since my usual fillers just flaked off. it goes all the way around as you know.. http://i.imgur.com/PTo1nxv.jpg now i need to cut a new riser plate so i can push it further towards the wall and do other changes as well. this will allow me to use the space better. the small riser which was for the esc/receiver will be removed in favor of another deck. the line that is penperdicular with the back of the cab? that's how far the tank will go. but wait, what about the motor? belt driven off the side next to the pump :) this way i can shove it all backwards and have a nice scale slope up the front. now of course we cant have things go easy and lamebacks pump shaft is m2ish while the motor side (and my pulleys) are m3ish (3.17mm standard size). a challenge... cool. I can also fit another battery in there, either inside the canopy or on top the counterweight as an addition on top. Will decide later. I'll also wire it up for an external cell like my fleet of no longer holding charge optimas (they wanted them back to study them but wanted me to cover shipping 200lbs. HA!) The end is near! Once i finalize all the stuff inside i can cut up the canopy. Also working on a few other things in the downtime of waiting on parts and supplies. wired up the hydros for a leak test and pressure adjustment (have to as i totally spun the screw for fun). found a 8$ 300psi gauge but i'll only use it to dial in pressure and then remove. this time i am testing outside the model. took me days to get that oil out of all cracks (end caused me issues with paint) |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
Performed leak test, the plunger screws leaked but because i left them too lose. corrected that and had no further issues at 14 bar. will test more later. just to make sure.
i got my pulleys and timing belt but i was thinking.. if i connect it directly, it might put too much sideways pressure on the pump shaft, wear it unevenly and create a leak, essentially destroying the pump. since there is no bearing present, i doubt it has any lateral support built in. i will need some tension on the belt to avoid it jumping and vibrating, but i fear even the slightest pull will be enough to cause damage. to correct this i would have to build a rig and suspend the pulley on bearings and use the stock connector - basically the vario design but with the motor on the side, not on top) this further complicates the task and takes yet more mm off my space i wanted to leave up front. 3mm plates x2 = 6mm, 3mm w bearing + 2.5mm w bearing = 11.5mm wasted space. and thats before the pulley and coupler. i am only trying to do this for better aesthetics. not sure it is worth pursuing, might just go back to my original plan of having it as a short slope/high step mining canopy |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
managed to get the pump to a steady
17.581599 bars.................. yes it is possible. i can push 18 if i wanted to. pump to gauge directly. just out of curiosity. |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
20 bars highest it would go but flow really fell off after 18bars. by 20 it was more like a dribble. so their 16bar max setting is somewhat accurate. but i noticed no reduced flow (visually) @ 17.5 but i'll take 16 as the max usable.
now that i am done messing with that, i can get back to working on everything else. time to cut some metal. i really wish i could edit posts beyond 20 mins and not have to daisy chain them but it is what it is |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
http://i.imgur.com/3FOY4zF.jpg
i made a pass through block. This will take the cables from the boom and send them to the valve. I am trying to shorten cables i have to cut during disassembly and also getting nice cable routing. I will use a combo of straight and 90d fittings as needed. Lower boom cyls are pass through, those up the boom (2 on each side) are 90d most likely. Hopefully buswick has what i need, my maiden order with them is due next week. If those fit, awesome. I am concerned about the thread lenght on nipples. Leimbach is quite short which is great. http://i.imgur.com/iSudHMI.jpg This will route the tubing from the block above and onto the boom, a bit like leibherr style (which i love because the way it gets the cables out of your way down below). I drilled this as a joke so 2 in the center are actually off the line a bit. But i like it actually. I'll cut them both to final shape and mount once i get fittings in. Dont want to drill nothing in my boom till i know it will stay there :) http://i.imgur.com/wIdQnHP.jpg it goes here. I am pretty much done with my hydro oil tank enclosure. The actual tank is done and tested, this is just the cover around it i am making. Depending on how much fluids are consumed tonight i will either get a lot done, or nothing else. hah cheers |
Re: My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
It was time to build the slewing ring cover so i had to measure just how much clearance i had. Figured i would take a few photos for posterity.
yep, the filter is in a nice spot out front. Just think of it as a slewing motor. ended up remaking the carriage cover from styrene (in progress). metal proved too flimsy on the 2 slope sections joints and i cannot extrude it to shape from 1 piece. Still waiting on german post. so inconsistent. http://i.imgur.com/AadXzsy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/4c6Amb4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/QtFOxFY.jpg silver can for testing purposes. i also scrapped the belt driven idea i was talking about above. i would not get the clearance i wanted unless i direct mounted to the pump, which would cause side pressure and file the seals in no time. you can marvel at my brute job of trying to seal it out with epoxy so when leaks happen oil doesnt get in all cracks again and cause problems...... i could have made it nicer but then again.. next build. this one is for learning |
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