Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

pictures big or small are better then no pictures!!

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

I bought all the gears but the two smaller pinions are cut from 12'' pcs of gear stock so I can make them the way I want. I think I've mentioned in the past but I think there's around $100+ buying the worm & the other gears. I even put a tiny thrust bearing on the end of the worm. Right now I'm working on the mount for the motor I'm going to try. After testing it and getting a RPM of the winch drum, I running about 30ipm and that should take only 6-7 minutes to boom up or down.

Stuff:
The pictures were resized too big by accident.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

I got some more done with the boom hoist and some on the base of the boom where it attaches to the revolving frame.
Motor pinion
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/9527/1003502a.jpg

Boom hoist worm gear and a graphic of it on the monitor on my mill.
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/2617/1003504t.jpg
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/8122/1003505.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/1586/1003506d.jpg

Cutting mounting plates
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/3410/1003507e.jpg

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/8826/1003508g.jpg

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/6690/1003509j.jpg

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Very nice steve! I don't understand the monitor thing or the brass plates, but I like the work it's doing! Be interesting to see the finished parts.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

:eek::eek: Steve , how long did it take to mill the worm gear ? will you have the boom ready for january ? I'm on the push to get the pan running for cabin fever

IHSteve

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Tom, the graphics are a tool path simulation before actually turning on the spindle so I can check to see if there's any weird moves I've screwed up on while programming.

Steve, I bought the gear. I just wanted to dress it up to look like the 1:1 version. But that took 2hrs to do.Look at the picture in a previous post. I'm just trying to get moving on the boom. Soo much more design to do then get real good at silver soldering:D
I think I have all the metal needed now but I'll have to get about 200' of cable to reeve it up but before that's done I have to remove the "A" frame and machine the holes for the sheaves up there. It would be a miracle if the boom is finished.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Steve , in that 2 hrs , how much tool time and how much program time ? If the fund don't come in time then I'll be making everything for the hydros cept hose , fittings and seals . hydros put me back last year but not now with a mill in the shop even if it's a toy it still makes life easier . I looked at some of those booms on stripmine :eek: I can see that taking some time and a few more grays on the chin :p

IHSteve

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

The program only took about 5min but getting in the old mill didn't work. I was trying to rotate the pie shape on the mill but it didn't work. Long story. After a couple trips back and forth to the computer I figured it out. Now that I think of it maybe 3hrs in all:mad: I took small cuts because I didn't have a good hold on the gear and if it got ######up I would be out some $$$ If it was held better I could hog that out in an hour. The 6 plates took about 50min.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

I was just trying to figure times , I'm trying to get a hold of a cnc bp missed out on one that had the phase converter with it . went for $2555.00 nice shape to :( I'll just keep trying . it's hart braking seeing nice machines for a good $ and not having the $ when you need it :(

IHSteve

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

That is some beautiful work Steve, I can only dream of doing that kind of stuff.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Wow, that wheel looks so much better when milled, guess you have to run the machine without any superstructure on it. when milling in brass, how much do take in each pass?
Guess that with the time spent in machine, it would be max 1/16. Will it be milled all way?

I have a RF35 milling machine, do you know of any good and cheap conversions for CNC. Guess that most CAD program can export right format to the CNC. When I draw for laser cutting most companies want DXF files.

my hat of, Steve, looking forward for progress.
Dan

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

What do you mean by no superstructure? I have a good bit of it complete. I still need to make the rest of the diagonal bracing up there though. As far as how big a cut I just go easy on parts that could be trashed easily. I used a carbide .125'' dia. endmill so you have to go easy. Look at the mill control graphics and you see I took .025'' each lap around the shape. I also went to depth in 4 passes to .150''. My Cam program is a older version of BobCad Cam. I have a newer version but don't like it.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Steve, what I ment was it´s a shame to cover all this beautiful machinery covered up with sheet metal. You have put so much work into it so it has to be seen. Maybee a removable roof?
Here´s a pic from HCEA2008
It must have taken lot of hour milling out those sides
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/...n/DSC_0122.jpg

is it same type of control on the drums as this old model but with r/c servos?
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/...n/DSC_0124.jpg

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Oh, I'm going to cover only half of the machine-The cab side. Yes I'll leave some of the roof open and the left side and I'll have lighting inside. I still need to make the big supports for the walking bearings that go into the roof and I have to make the curved roof trusses. The 3 motors are controlled with 100VDC regenerative drives similar to the 1:1 but solid state. The rc part was a real learning experience. When I have all that 100% I'll show more detail on that. I'm still on the trial and error method:D I'll have to post some of my progress from this past weekend on the boom.
I would love to have that stiff leg derrick toy that guy had at the show. I forgot to take some pictures of it like you did.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Here's some progress on the boom.
Fixture for side of first section.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/2398/1003510t.jpg

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/4126/1003511.jpg

This is the first piece of tube cut and notched of hundreds:D
http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/8205/1003512.jpg

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/5719/1003513q.jpg

Checking for fit.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3900/1003514q.jpg

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Looking good Steve!

Great idea on the fixture to make it.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Steve-I cannot even imagine how long that is going to take but you will be rewarded. It should look "outta this world"!!:D

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Steve-you may already have a plan for your silver soldering but I thought I would mention this. I had a lot of problems soldering joints close to each other. The heat would melt the joints loose. If you are soldering both inside & outside of the boom this may be a problem. I found this stuff after I had finished my project but it looks like it will do this job. It is called "cool blue" heat paste and it seems pretty amazing. They have some videos of it being used and you might want to check it out. It is pricey but you can re-use it many times. Here is a link-
http://www.muggyweld.com/hpclip1.html

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

great work! very inspiring!

thanks for sharing,
Kerst

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Thanks Kerst..

Tom, I've heard of heat blocking putty. I think we tried that 25yrs ago but we never needed it for our work but like you said; It may come in handy for the intricate work on the boom. I have a tiny jewelers torch if my resistance soldering setup doesn't work. I hope with the resistance machine it will locate the heat right where I need it.
Something I noticed with the closeup picture that's hard to see without glasses is the tube bends up on the ends. My slitting saw needs to be a couple thousandths wider. My milling was on the big side of my intended size because trying to mill those long pieces,it's hard to hold straight and no deflection. I would love to have a vice setup with 32'' long jaws but I never built one.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Steve , I would use the torch . if you have it all clamped in the jig ready to solder , you can heat a muti joint area and solder at once .

IHSteve

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Yeah steve-I noticed the gaps but couldn't tell how big they are. The silver will fill in some gaps. I have heard of the resistance soldering but never seen it used. That may be the way to go. Using the torch ,the thick angles will take a lot of heat and it may be too much for the thin-wall tubing. I'm sure you will figure it out.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

WOW!! Your work is always top notch. Silver soldering is an art in itself. Not sure a resistance iron will work with the brass frame being so much thicker than the cross bracing. Torch is going to be just as challenging due to the size difference. Some sort of heat sinks or the heat blocking putty may be your best bet.
Took me awhile to get the hang of soldering on my Studebaker. The grill alone took over a hour to solder together and I made a jig first. Glad I only have to do about 8 or 9 more solder joints and it will be back to machining again.
Would really like to see your work in person. Course I would probably just stare and drool over it.:D I do a lot of that at the NAMES show each year.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Those old guys really would frown on the drooling. Might rust a head bolt.:D
Why don't you come to York in January with some of us other guys and bring the Studebaker. Work in progress are always welcome. I want to look that truck over.

I have resistance power supply's up to 2500W I picked them up when they were cheap enough. I hope to find a use for them just need the proper jaws maybe.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

I spent 3hrs last night trying to mill these tighter angled pieces. I got one almost right. Today I had to make a small vee block fixture to hold the tube further out of the vice so the slitting saw won't hit the vice. I also found the problem with the narrow groove Tom. The saw I was using measured .060'' and my tee is .063'' so I stacked up two saws that measure .064'' wide.
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/5613/1003515.jpg

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Nice setup!

Kerst

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Nice set-up steve-seems like I spend half my time trying to build something to hold something like you did. I guess that's how it goes. Are the saws carbide? I tried slitting tubing with a dremel saw a few years back and trashed the tubing and the saw.:eek:

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Looks like just standard High speed steel jewelers saws. I've been using a .0625" by 6" saw on my manual mill for the last 2 days as well, great fun.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Yes they're just high speed steel (two stacked) but a little dull but work fine. The new setup works great now that I can push the tube closer to the fixture and I can cut into it rather than the toolmakers vice:D I managed to get three more mitered and notched this evening (about 45min). Maybe tomorrow I'll knock a few more out. This run of pieces has 2 sets of 20pcs. I'm having some trouble dialing in the different angles, their not 45deg their 43.8 46.6 etc.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

You've got CNC, why angle the vise? Just make the cut angled. Should be real easy if your machine will take a polar coordinate move. Program for your start and end point, and just change the Polar angle for each tube. If no polar then just some quick math to determine new endpoint for different angles

Or is there something I'm missing???

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

I can do it quicker manually since there's only two pieces each. First I'd have to locate each one for length possibly rough cut the angle on the bandsaw so I wouldn't have to take several small cuts and do a program for each set. I've done it before on some of the other pieces but it's not worth it for the hundreds of different sized pieces. If I had a tiny chop saw I could cut the angles but I would still have to orient them in the vee fixture properly for notching. I would definitely do the CNC set up if all of them were the same.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Ok, that makes sense. I guess for some reason I was thinking a bunch of them were similar.

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Steve-any progress on the boom?

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

That's funny I was going to post at lunch but we rode up to TACO SMELL first :D Been busy this past week but found an hour here and there to make some tubes. Every pair is a different length,and angles are different each end because; the tube's edge goes from one side to the other side of the centerline.
Well, I got enough pieces (40) for both sides of the bottom 45'' section done. Now I need to mill the "T" chords to proper length and drill all the slice plate holes. Then on to soldering:confused:

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/5810/1003520u.jpg

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/4809/1003519a.jpg

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/9883/1003518d.jpg

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Looking good!

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

That looks good, Steve. How long is the boom going to be or did I miss that?

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

About 122.5''

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Good timing huh! Looks perfect. Nice joints!

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Man, that thing is going to be a beast. What are you using for cable? or (line)

Re: 1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline
 

Nice work Steve!

Brian