Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

you should see the floor in my wife's Jetta :eek: she use to park in the shop in the winter till the new lathe came . I don't think those chips will ever come out :p

vibration in trans:confused: did you use the oil-lite bushes or put ball bearings in (not needed by a long sea mile ) .

on edit : how tight do you have the mesh with the motor pinion and input gear ?

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pshkxfzgav.jpg
Figure I can post some building tips if it helps anyone. Ever have these little tinny critters? Always a hard place to get to? Get some silicone hose (fuel line ect).

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psocrpcmxq.jpg

Press it into end of hose. Make a flexible nut driver to get started at least.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psqx0nivvh.jpg
Like these ones inside the cab for the mirrors. Just thought I would share some tips along the way for those that have gorilla fingers and two left thumbs :)

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Uhhhh , nope and I donna know? Lol!!! Bushings that were with kit. I assume I set the mesh lose, I do know that, guess I should just tear down. I coated everything with graphite instead of grease. Figure I have like a huge tub of it and no use for it :).

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psrtvjiv9v.jpg
Getting ready for paint. I'm trying something new, I'm not using a adhesion promotor on the plastic but instead I soda blasted all plastic surfaces being painted. Just enough for some traction for paint but not gouging surface. This is the first time in trying this so we'll see how it works. I am using a sealer base coat.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psci6uyn5r.jpg
Sealer coat, some color mixed in

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psgg8g4ink.jpg
Final coat. Depending how durable it feels I may not clear. But it's turning out well so a clear is possible. Probably a urethane clear. I don't have any experience with this type of plastic, anyone use clear coats? As I didn't really seal or coat insides and don't know how a urethane will react. Can find out but figured I'll ask, as I will be using a test piece.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

And what a better time to start another project, getting back to that dump truck!! Building a 10wheeler. All drive axles. Pic in background is what I'm aiming for, close.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psxvjxhil6.jpg
Purchased a rather rough shape dumper a little while back and quickly realized it would be a parts truck. Some left overs from aeromax daycab will help also. And this one is going back to my original idea of hydraulic lift cylinder. Have the one from magom(?). It's pretty small and uses 3mm tube. I think like 12 bar. And no guessing or math on this one!! Going to build it and then see if it's got enough pressure to lift a rather overloaded box!! Yup that good ole redneck logic!! (If you don't know how to fix it ,, tear it apart and look at the left over parts when you put it back together!) lol!! :)

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

BOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psltmr1seo.jpg

I would have had this done and been able to drive down to the pit outback in daylight but this pest kept getting in the way!!!

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pso64puyxd.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psnfajwwj3.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psjbccxwhi.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psej8zlgwz.jpg

And the easy battery access

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2chhmko9.jpg

I did get a trip down to the pit but no video as it was too dark. This is my first rig and I don't know what to expect but have followed many others advise and threads. I quickly found out that any imperfections in the dirt road stopped the truck. Going down was easy but kept getting stuck on the way out. Now it's making me rethink the dumper build.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psjlntgjjx.jpg

Ok which one is better for dirt roads and uneven surfaces? Axles with lockers or having front wheel drive? Obliviously front drive with lockers all around is best but I have rear (2) and front drive axles for the dumper build. But would have to purchase locking axles. My thoughts are for building the Aeromax dump truck with lockable rears and just stock front. Figure if it gets low on traction I can lock and still be able to have a good turning radius when not locked. Is that what you guys are doing?

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Two things I would suggest are, six tooth pinion gear on the motor shaft, gives you way more torque. and go back on the rear end rigging and loosen all the hardware bolts so the axles will articulate better. If it's too ridged back there you can get stuck most anywhere. One more suggestion is softer more aggressive tire tread and super singles on the front. The Tamiya tires just plug up with sand and are too rigid just like your last picture. RC4WD tires work well on mine!

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

I had a similar problem with a noisy tranny. It wasn't improper meshing of gears. Turns out the pinion gear set screw was contacting the spur gear teeth. I'd check to see if that's the problem.

Mario

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

I was super disappointed with how easy these trucks get stuck last year when I got mine. Coming from all 1/10 scale equipment that is WAY heavier and runs tires nearly twice the size, I guess I should have known but I was still like WTF? Anyway, at the urging of some friends I locked the rear axle to try it and it works much better. I just used hot glue and it is holding up fine so far, the best part being that with greasy gears the glue doesn't stick. It cools and takes the shape of the teeth but the pieces just come out when you take apart the diff without any fuss(I didn't have spare spider gears to use). Chaseracer has both axles locked permanently in his Autocar dump truck and it still steers fine loaded on dirt. I will be locking the front tandem in both my trucks too in the near future just to try it. My Hayes also gets better traction than my KH because it has my own springs and the shocks removed. Like Rob said, if you tighten everything up properly it won't articulate.

I also had the same issue as Mario with a smaller pinion I swapped on. I had to shim the motor back for clearance so that the set screw didn't hit the driven gear. Luckily for me I remembered his experience first and shimmed the motor prior to running it. May not be your issue but it's worth a look.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

"Ok which one is better for dirt roads and uneven surfaces? Axles with lockers or having front wheel drive? Obliviously front drive with lockers all around is best but I have rear (2) and front drive axles for the dumper build. But would have to purchase locking axles. My thoughts are for building the Aeromax dump truck with lockable rears and just stock front. Figure if it gets low on traction I can lock and still be able to have a good turning radius when not locked. Is that what you guys are doing?"

Cooper, if you haven't read through LMACKATTACKS build thread on his ten wheeler dump truck it will help you decide how to set up your dump. http://www.rctruckandconstruction.co...ead.php?t=7706
I drove this truck for about 2 hours at the RCTandC spring meet and had a blast. It would go just about anywhere in the sandy mixed dirt. I'm currently building a dump using a TLT front drive axle with a scale 72.5" tandem spread based on a Hendrickson walking beam suspension. The steer axle is locked and the rear rear drive is also locked. It will have a scale 19' bed. This was based on things learned from LMacks build and the spring meet in Ill.

We need more animal pictures in this thread!:cop::lol:

Sorry forgot to say nice job on the Areomax! I like the color.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://youtu.be/ArWMPF2HEYY

Hey trucker, it's not pictures but it covers all my animals (I was happy with one each but I caved into wife) and the Aeromax finished. I'll get to that thread, thanks!! It's what I want, as I'm planing on running the dump in dirt 99% of the time.

And I figured on beefing up the suspension. If I go with the front wheel drive I can now make new springs heavy duty. I got a sheet of spring steel, easy to work annelid, just have to heat treat when done.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psqlluejqc.jpg
Bottom spring is stock tamiya, top two are test builds. I made a quick jig to accurately bend. And surprising that steel in its state is really easy to shear and bend. Same thickness as stock (22 gauge I think). Once I get the right length and eyes bent the other leaves will be easy.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Nice video! I might get one of the cats to ride but I'd have to put a cardboard box on the trailer for them to ride in! There are empty boxes in various places around the house if you don't throw them away as soon as you take stuff out they fill up with a cat. :lol::lol:

I bought F350 add on leaves from TamiyaUSA, 4 different lengths, in packs of 4 for about $4-6 a pack. Put them in the front and rear.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

4-6$ would be a lot easier!! I still like trying to make stuff too :).

I did a quick test on two springs I made, one heat treated and one not. I just used mapp gas to heat, rather quick to glow. I don't know what the exact target temp or what temp I got to but for what I'm doing its fine with me.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psx0tbwohh.jpg

Clamped both springs and applied pressure at eye to flat.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psc2571m4r.jpg

And the return rate. Must have tempered some. Definitely a lot more spring. The treated one will vibrate three times longer than non. So I'm on the right track.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pseazigwwh.jpg

And another project I've been thinking a lot about lately. Very few multi stage hydraulic cylinders out there. And ones that are available are very expensive. So,,, one I don't know what I'm getting into and that's why they are so pricey. 2, too much work and don't scale very well. 3, I'm just too green and ignorant to know any better. :). 4, all of the above!! I'm going with # 4 and going to bite off more than I can chew. But I like the challenge. (At least that what I'm saying now.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psdmqcdikl.jpg
Have some brass to experiment on. Stainless would be my choice but hard for me to work with.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

you will soon see why the price of a good 1 is what it is :eek:

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Yea, I think your correct!! Maybe I should kick my own a$$. Lol!!! Gluten for punishment :)

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://youtu.be/nRhksQpMkVM

Had to fire up the dozer today. Had some dirt that needed piled. And because we are a shoestring backwoods construction company we don't have a dump truck for moving any dirt. So the d11 gets to push up piles.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Well I settled on building a single cylinder for the scissors lift I had originally built for the dumper. I wouldn't really know if it will work until I have it all hooked up and put some weight in the bed. Here are some pics of it so far. I will be removing some material from side of cylinder as walls are 1/8" . The bed will have plenty of dump angle, maybe too much.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psnc2n8hbw.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psbfzwqr3n.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pssq6unkhs.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ltytri4.jpg

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Nice work Ralph. Can't wait to see testing videos of it.:bounce:

Where the heck is the pump/motor going to fit? Using a fuel tank style set up?

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

That's what the plan is so far, pump to be housed in side tanks. I was going to eliminate a valve by using two pressure release valves. One on each line. When hoist reaches top or bottom prv will kick in if I don't stop pump. And hoist will be controlled by direction of pump. Basically be two loops and a cylinder in between. (Again that redneck physics kickin in) lol!!!

After eyeing this for a while I'm pretty sure I should move the pin at end of hoist , the one attaching to dump bed, closer to hoist hinge. To me it is too far and just going to create more force to lift. I could do the math and figure what force would be needed on the cylinder to lift X amount of weight , but no fun in that!!! As it is this type of fulcrum isn't really efficient but it is compact. And the further that bed pin is the harder to lift. But I have it as is and can do some tests (will video :)) to see how she works before having to do all that relocation. A touch complicated to get all lined up!! I have one of those little magom pumps and I don't know what condition it's in. Have to get to work on plumbing the lines for cylinder.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Good looking aeromax Cooper.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

FYI around the pump, etc... On most rc hydraulic tippers, just run the pump until it hits an electric limit switch.. Stop... The lower by reversing the pump... The limits are microswitches ... With a relay... Simpler than hydraulic prv's, and easier to mount.

If you want the details let me know I will dig up a wiring diagram and some part nos.

C

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Yes, send me some more details. As I have limited experience on limit switches ! Ha!! I never installed them just know to be using a s.diode. But some more knowledge is always wanted!! Thanks. I'm running on 7.2 volts (can change if necessary ) pump can run by esc or by switch. I guess that doesn't really matter. Thanks a lot.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Have a look at the top left of this excerpt:
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...2C939A6FB9.png

The CTI PS4aT converts the single channel to up and down (two functions aren't used).

The two lines out of the CTI go through limit switches to break the circuit when the limit is reached(one has three in this case as the tipper is a three way unit).

These trigger a relay which handles the full current of the pump...

The relay is available from Scale Art.

Cheers,
Ap

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Thanks for the info!!

Got the cylinder for the dump lift done.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psn4o8uogg.jpg

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Ok, got the cylinder working strong. Problem is the pump I was planning on using is shot! It sucks air. I think the seal on motor side is shot. Oil leaks out when under pressure and sucks air when retracting piston cycle. It is a magom small 3mm fitting pump I purchased with a dump of a truck from fellow member. (Really wish I received pics I requested before purchasing, oh well my mistake). Anyone ever take one of them apart? It looks like the pinion is pressed on. If so I question how much damage I may do in the removal process. Might bite the bullet and get the small pump like rc4wd has. Another question for you is how do you guys plumb for a dump cylinder? Do you use a servo and valve? Just plumb pump to cylinder on pressure side with tank on retract side? Just one simple loop of pump to cylinder without a tank? Limit switches to prevent over pressure or the whole boat with prv and valve?? I know questions , questions right??

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://umstech.in/search_results.php try 1 of these ( L 00 Y 0300 ) they're good pumps for dumpers . I'm just not sure if their shipping time improved :confused: copy/paste # in () into the search box on the site . the website is the same POS interface :(


Pressure side to up side of cylinder ( vent 2nd port or run straight to top of tank ) suction side of pump to bottom of tank . pump runs FWD to raise , pump runs REV to lower . It would be cool to put valve setup in like the real thing but not necessary .

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

That's how I had it hooked up for testing. Had the hoses taped to a beaker full of oil. I know some say anti-freeze but I'm on the side of light weight hydro oil all the way. This is the pump unit I have removed from the dump of a truck I harvested it from.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psbf465bd4.jpg
I did tear down the pump unit last night and removed pinion from motor shaft without any harm. Some sealant along with a simple o ring is what they use for motor shaft seal on pump housing. Order some orings from McMaster and should have them tomorrow. .09-.07 by 1/16 something like that for replacement.

And someone else asked about the dump of a truck I purchased, some pics before it went to "Harry's you pull it" salvage yard ,
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psb8d8a355.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psf4260755.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps35c390e1.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps329fe8db.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps03d320ff.jpg

Only problem was Harry wouldn't take it !!!! Lol. Axles seem to be ok, little notchey but they go round. :). I ended up going with remote locker axles and a 4x6 drive train anyway.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Hmm I think your PM today was accurate in your description of the truck. Hope you get her all back together.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

I've been at a loggerhead with the dump body, make it out of aluminum? Or steel? I had planned on using 1/4" alum and milling the side profiles into the sheet, also making it lighter. A lot of work and not sure how accurate it would look. Steel, have the ability to bend but welding would not be able to make the seams look clean. Sooooo,,, I decided to try brazing. Went over the the barn and got the oxyacetylene tanks. Of course the acetylene tank was empty, ran over to airgas Wednesday and exchanged both. Thursday night got to play with the torch. Sorta,, oxygen gauge popped and acetylene gauge reading zero on regulator side no matter where bolt was. Made a trip to harbor fright as a cheep torch outfit will serve our rare uses at work. Also picked up this little torch,
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pshynbbd0c.jpg

And after playing around found out the little torch will be perfect for the tiny delicate brazing I'm trying to do. So after attempting to understand the basic principals of brazing I got my first weld,,
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psj6cnzhxs.jpg

Once I found that magical temp and heat area I understood what to do. The second attempt

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pswsx4dwjs.jpg

And found out not to overheat the flux as it glasses over and hard to remove. Some more learning and then I'm going to attempt to do the dump body like this. I was using 22guage steel. If I can find some slightly thinner I may use that instead. Would be neat to develop some scrapes and dents over time :). I would like to say I acquired another skill but I'm far from skilled!! Hats off to you guys that make clean detailed welds!!

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Started on the dump bed,

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0fivcxmx.jpg
Just tacked front and back braces to keep the bed square

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psuylpzwbf.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pslzkedwam.jpg

This is the side profile I'm making. The side spars were cut too long as I recalculated side height to accommodate some wood side rails.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pshpxjweac.jpg

And bottom ribs. These are tacked in place as not really a visible side (most of the time)
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psvek8qwv9.jpg

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Rain day!!!! Get some garage time!!!

Well I am far far farrrrr from being efficient and aesthetically pleasing in my welding skills!! I am tack welding everything I can then silver brazing seams that will be seen. After learning how to braze I may need to make this truck as a well used and abused dumper. I've managed to glob, over heat, warp, and just overall make a nice flat new dump bed into a beat and abused well used bed!! Well the drive train will be new and shiny:). Have to weather the cab now I guess. I know paint can hide and magnify but there is no hope for any paint job to help this. It's a learning project, I keep telling myself.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psehcvxin3.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psbon0rmth.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psd7pweckl.jpg

In this case pictures help hide,lol! It's not too bad on the brazing, once blasted I'm going to go over again and try and smooth out some high spots/puddles. But the little bit of warpage will just have to be delt with. On the second side I did clamp a heat sink (thick angle iron ) to the back side and was more careful of heating too much.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

I think you're being too picky RW, function before beauty is my motto. :d

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psjzsm3mn5.jpg

Yes, I'm more interested in function. But trying to keep up with the other very skilled builders makes me realize I may be a fast learner but need more time than a week to develop skills like them :). I'm more so wanting the lift to be able to lift a overloaded wet clay load than some bumps in the bed. It doesn't look too bad after blasting. I bought a small cabinet for blasting from eBay. It's a fine addition, found out it clogs the filter easily then blows dust. Thought I would hook up shop vac to help pull particles into filter. Kind of funny as when I turned on vac it poped!! The gloves imploded and were rock hard! A little too much suction!! It was rather funny watching me play like a fish out of water with that!!! Anyway, some areas inside cabinet need sealed better and need to make bigger filter and clean often.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

And yes had to take a pic of the better area, lol!!

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://youtu.be/foJ4akEh4Co

Had some uphill pushing.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

And some bonehead surveyor hod the elevations wrong!! So all that dirt pushed uphill had to be pushed right back downhill!!!
http://youtu.be/hiCTfMtQxs8

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Second half of video
http://youtu.be/bXpNDbZ7Sbg

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Cooper-your dozer seems to be working well now and the operator is also improving. :D Watching the videos I thought -if there were bulldozers millions of years ago, that's what it would have looked like with dinosaurs walking around them. :eek: I know the problems you are having with the brazing. I brazed my Marion shovel together and it worked good on small pcs. but the more metal added just turned everything into a heat sink and I could not get the metal hot enough. Some of your joints to me looked like they were not hot enough to flow the silver. Some of this stuff might be worth a try-
http://muggyweld.com/all-products/coolblue Watch the videos and yes I know they are trying to sell the stuff but it looks pretty good. I didn't find this until after I finished my model. Oh well!

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Thanks modelman, I'll get some of that and try it also. This dump bed is a learning process. I'm sure in future I will be making a better looking bed. Got some more done,

Clamp, position, check,,, reclamp, reposition, recheck,,,,,,,,

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8amuwhyq.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pswuxjmauf.jpg

It did take a bit of time on the belt sander to get the back flat so gate would sit flush.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psvarnxxyb.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psksylb2pw.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psam80qbfk.jpg

The piece left in bed was just to keep square. I'm using magnets to keep gate closed. I did incorporate a tunnel in the bottom of bed to accept actual gate locks if I want to try that. That might become another experiment and learning project. :)