Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Cooper you can buy telescoping tubing I got some at Cabin Fever. It can be had in steel or stainless. Hobby Metal Kits is the place and it is thin wall. www.hobbymetalkits.com 608-345-2617 Bernie is great to deal with. I got steel in 1/16 graduations for 6 stages. Happy building. Ed

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

304 stainless

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/z...pscnrzpjwn.jpg


http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps73gvx2za.jpg

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Thanks, that's what I need to get and make a prototype in stainless.

Some work/play today

http://youtu.be/AH3yVILDwtw

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psgocihf1o.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psvk4whzbp.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psaivpqhpu.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psxbsewgxo.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psu0scmazd.jpg

This was a project my dad wanted me to get done for him while he is in sunny Florida. It is the sump drain from house basement. Last year critters and leaves clogged end up and froze solid 3-4' length. So I replace the last 15' and put a cleanout in it. Wasn't really necessary but I didn't have and couplings for dwv pipe only tees and an end cap. But now if something cloges end I can push it out. And also had something to dig up and push dirt around :). Contract job, I will have to bill him. But he only pays in 1:14 scale!!!!

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Cooper

Used to work in a machine shop building 3 stage dump cylinders, what we built had the oil enter the bottom of the cylinder. The bottom looked just like yours except it had a port, no port at top. we then welded a heavier flange on the bottom of the second and third stage in which we machined the seal groove. For the top of first stage we did same as you, we did internal thread for the other 2, know you can't do this so just repeat what you did on #1 stage, no seals just make sure that the inside of caps are smooth. Double O rings on bottom are fine gives a better seal. My model 300 ton has this type of cylinder works great, and 1/16" size difference is fine even for tops work fine as seals are inside of piston, and no seal at top allows air to flow out through heads.

Earl

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Thanks for the info earl. These cylinders are what I would call inverted, the smaller stage is on bottom and larger casing cylinder is the top. It's how the cylinders are mounted on cat haul trucks. That's why I had the oil entering from smaller stage as it will be the bottom. I guess this way dirt and debris are kept to a minimum on the rods.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

there are a few rock tubs with the piston upside down

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://youtu.be/IZPJOa2tmrc

Think this guy got fired?

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

super mario testing out the repair job

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Wasn't there some sort of training video where they were driving crazy as well? That one just looks like someone got laid off and said "oh yeah"?

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Yup. That would be your typical traction control test. Much more fun when doing on purpose compared to when the truck decides when it wants to do it. :eek::jaw::lol:

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

I'm worse than a girl in a dress shop!! Can't figure out what to build yet. 797 is too big, Brian got the 793 down and I'm now thinking 795b. It's a simpler design to build, more square front end. Tires, problem. 777 are 7.35". 785b are 8.35" and 797 are 12.9" scale. (Just a quick internet look up and I may be wrong. 1:14 scale). I found some hand truck tires 8" that are not correct but I'll just say I got retreads!!! Now the height of bed for loading on the 797 is like 19". The 785b is 14". That would be ok for me to load with the cat I got. I think, a test apparatus I set up. The black line is 14".
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pscmpvstfu.jpg
And that is with stick level
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psafoz0wfz.jpg
That is with boom and stick completely extended. So I think at 14" I'll be ok loading on even ground. Want to make as big of one as I can and still be able to load it.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

how about a international pay hauler 350
50 ton machine and its different
http://www.silverstatespecialties.co...ler350C_01.jpg

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

That would be nice!! Never knew they made that.

Just got off the phone with Brian and I don't know why I didn't think of it before but the master of 3d printing gave me the idea of printing a mould for whatever size tires I want. So I think I may try that. Another thing to "learn",,,, casting stuff. Just another reinforcing for our hobby, if you can't find it make it!!! Now all I have to do is move computer out to garage, start a argument with wife, get banished to garage and in a couple months possibly have a new baby addition to the construction company :)

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psacvlu60d.jpg

Ok I had a little time , about an hour to make this. If I knew what I was doing it would have been about 10 min!!! Not sure about how to make a negative mould. It may be better for me to make a scale tire, trim sand the plastic tire and then make the mould from that. It's just a start to see if I can do it. The treds will be more accurate on final but it's a start.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

What software is this?

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Make your master in the printer . Clean it up smooth it if necessary . Then make a mold and cast them like Tom did . I made the negative of the tire for machining the mold , but I forget what I did :o . I have 2004 autocad

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

The free stuff, autodesk123 design. I'm not too knowledgable with this stuff but from what I've found it works to an extent. From what I researched most are making a extrusion for treads on a different layer but with this I can't do that so I used the circular pattern and just increased the number till treds looked full.

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

That's what I think I'm going to do, make a master that I will be able to clean up the lines from printer. Then make a negative. Still researching what silicone to use. Rtv with pigment for final. Not sure what hardness, looks like around 60? Still not too knowledgable on that part. Like I said another thing to learn how to do!! So far in this hobby I'm a machinist, designer, frabricator, metalergist , ect,,,, and still don't know any of that stuff!! Would make a heck of a resume, until I got hired and didn't know squat!!! :) what hardness are those tires on your loader? A little soft if I remember but they are holding up great. (Kind of felt like some surgical implants :). ) lol.
Once I figure out what I'm doing I'll get more precise with tread pattern. I'm sure a few "oops" will be along the way. But if they turn out I might be able to make a few for others? Do you know what products were used in the making of the actual tire? Rtv silicone? Pigment?

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

look for modelman's (Tom) 777 thread , he goes over the whole tire making . Or he'll see this and help you out ;) .

I know my loader tires are made from latex rubber . you'll see it again on sunday . I got er checked out and greased for werk :D

Re: Great Dane excavating co.
 

Cooper-If I were doing this I would simplify the tread pattern. In this picture the mold would have some very thin sections and if prepped correctly and waxed properly it might work but if it sticks any to the small sections the mold will tear and be ruined. Here is a place that will tell you everything about the different rubbers, waxes, etc.-
http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Ru...tml?catdepth=1
Good Luck