Got started on the build. Doesn't feel like I have much done when I sit back and look at it but there are just so many pieces its mind boggling. Started with a complete tear down of the axles to grease and thread lock all fasteners.
Inside the differentials. Someone voiced concern about them being made of pot metal but they look strikingly similar to the re-re bruiser diffs. Right down to the hardened steel planetary gears. Which have proven to hold up great on my bruiser even under brushless power. I recently took the rear axle apart and it all still looks brand new. For this reason I chose to use the same Tamiya ceramic grease in these axles.
Wheels are 2.8 and they look to be about the same diameter as the RC4WD mud slingers on my bruiser.
A look inside the front axle. They use cvd's and have no 4mm nut holding on the hubs, just an e-clip.
The first problem I encountered was with the tapping of the holes for the 6mm screws that hold on the diff cover. They weren't drilled or tapped deep enough to use a 6mm screw like the manual states. The axles came pre assembled and the screws were all sticking out 1 to 2mm. My fix was to shorten some screws. 4 of the screws that hold the diff on are short ones, the other 4 are 12mm as they secure into the 3rd member itself. Which meant I had to shorten the 14mm scale bolts I used as there aren't any in a 12mm size.
Completed front axle. Scale Bolts all the way around. The link mounts are 2 pieces that are screwed together with 4 m2 screws that clamp the axle, and an m3 screw is used to key them on the axle. I forgot to slap on both calipers for the pics.. Whoops.
For the rear axle I decided to fix the 6mm screw problem differently. I drilled through the case and retapped the holes to accommodate the longer screws. It will add a bit more strength as opposed to shortening the screws. I considered going back and doing the same type of fix to the front axle but it took so long just to get to this point, I wasn't about to tear down the axle again.
Completed rear axle. The link mounts bolt on much the same as the front, this time with 4 m2 nuts though.
Chassis assembly. Chassis consists of stamped steel rails and solid aluminum bars connecting them.
Lower links and the grommet and sleeve mounting method. Pretty scale. The uppers are standard ball type links.
This is where I am at with it so far. It took most the day to get to this point. All in all a great looking 5 link setup.
More to follow soon. Hoping I can do more tonight. Im at the point where I need to start putting in some servos believe it or not. The steering and diff lock servos mount on the rear of the chassis. And 3 mini servos mount inside the faux motor housing. Need to hit the hobby shop.