Trailer Tips and Tricks

[fhhhstix]

This thread is for posting pics of trailers and what you used to build it. Questions are encouraged.



Here are some pics of my home made trailer parts.

Quad axle lowboy frame and suspension











Pup dump trailer







Two box trailers turned into single axle pups.

[fhhhstix]

Flat bed converted to a dump trailer.



















Travis

[fhhhstix]

Here is a pic of it hooked to my tri drive Areomax and this trailer gets a new home next Sat. Doug (firefighter30) bought it. I sold it to get some money to start a new one.




Thanks
Travis

[Izzy]

Heres a few pics of trailers

modified flatbed now Drop deck - another fella had posted this kind of build previously - lower bed is a full flatbed - the upper is just longer than the jack legs.











My Dump - on a Box trailer frame (rails flanged outward for space) - the upper is all styrene and it has a 2 part extending thread drive - Double Tamiya suspension, on sub frame













LowBoy - aluminum frame with double steel arch stiffeners and steel front neck - aluminum is from Lowes - 2 sizes - neck uses Tamiya 5th wheel plate for quick attach

















Modular Home Frame - All steel with custom length Wedico Axels

[ihbuilder]

here's some pics of my low-boy now if you don't have access to a mill to make the I beam frame you can always weld it ,braze or solder what ever you have available . Just takes some patience



I'll try to get more up in my build tread
http://173.201.47.108/showthread.php?t=51

IHSteve

[Izzy]

Mike - thanks for the compliments ......
The dump was made using CA glue. Since then I have discussed it with Travis - should have used styrene weld - I believe the joints would be much better. There are weak joints but none have popped. It has only seen the crushed rubber. I believe it to have enough power for dirt though. If you are familur with the Sand MAster units - it takes three whole hoopers to fill it.





On the low boy - I copied the pictures of a trail king into a cad program then drew over top - so the lines are there's - the details are a bit different though. Here area few more pics of the workings of the neck..... I'll look for a video of it in action - several people have taken vids over hte past two years - many don't share though....wonder why???

[Diesel Demond]

i have a flat bed trailer costume built by freddy and i am looking on how to secure 1/16th scale john deer tractors to the trailer with the stock flat bed chains. i have 3 tractors to hold tight to the trailer any help would be great. now the trailer has 5 loops on the side of it allready to pull chain through it but i cant figure out how to pull them tight and keep them tight . also i am 2 loops short so i need to think of another way to tighten them down. any help would be great thanx cory!

[fhhhstix]

Cory how about something like this.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=DUB300

Travis

[Dreamweaver]

Oh I see Izzy, you used a fifth wheel on the bottom of the neck... That works for sure.

The real things have a surprisingly easy attachment method.

The trailer really looks good. Congrats..

-Mike

[Izzy]

Mike - check out IhBuilders home built - he is working on a really scale attachment method - very realistic..... Also if you had a chance to get a unit out of PMD - they are very realistic as well - especially if you spend the extra bucks for the hydraulic unit.

Tanker Yanker - I would strongly suggest the turn buckle concept - nice and secure - the over center binders from PMD work but are very delicate - but are fabulous for detail.

[firefighter-1177]

how did you make the axels for low boy travis? They look like a great affordable option.
All the trailers look great guys, very inspiring I wish I had more time to build.

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by firefighter-1177

how did you make the axels for low boy travis? They look like a great affordable option.
All the trailers look great guys, very inspiring I wish I had more time to build.

They are delrin tube with a thin brass tube inside and an aluminum axle shaft for the bearings in the wheels to run on. For the rims I driled out some plastic hex hubs and inserted a flanged bearing and drilled out the out side rim to hold another flanged bearing so each set of rims has two bearings an outer and inner. I then threaded the aluminum axle for 3 mm screws to hod the wheels on. I will post some pics in a minuite.

[fhhhstix]

Here are some pics.







Travis

[firefighter-1177]

Sweet. Thanks Travis, I might have to borrow that idea if ya don't mind.

[fhhhstix]

No problem and good luck with your build.

Travis

[steamer]

Travis This question is directed your way. First thanks for starting this thread ,as there's going to be lots of question coming your way. First one is, You seen to have used lots of different all thread sizes, does that depend on the load weight or the length of stroke for the slider. What rpm gear drive and torque power seems best. Whats the best lift action, to push from the front to the back, or back to front. That's it for now. Thanks

[fhhhstix]

I use 10/32 in all of my builds but the dump trailer and it is 3/8 fine thread. The dump trailer was my first screw drive and I did not think about the fact that the sliding block would carry the load and the all thread just had to move it. All of my screw drives push from back to front. For gear reduction my traler is 32:1 with a 65 turn 540 lathe motor the two dump trucks are 50:1 carson gearmotors and the dump pup trailer is a black & decker $10 screw driver from Wall-Mart.

Travis

Originally Posted by steamer

Travis This question is directed your way. First thanks for starting this thread ,as there's going to be lots of question coming your way. First one is, You seen to have used lots of different all thread sizes, does that depend on the load weight or the length of stroke for the slider. What rpm gear drive and torque power seems best. Whats the best lift action, to push from the front to the back, or back to front. That's it for now. Thanks

[ihbuilder]

Originally Posted by fhhhstix

I use 10/32 in all of my builds but the dump trailer and it is 3/8 fine thread. The dump trailer was my first screw drive and I did not think about the fact that the sliding block would carry the load and the all thread just had to move it. All of my screw drives push from back to front. For gear reduction my traler is 32:1 with a 65 turn 540 lathe motor the two dump trucks are 50:1 carson gearmotors and the dump pup trailer is a black & decker $10 screw driver from Wall-Mart.

Travis

travis , I have to correct you on 1 small thing . the thread does carry the load and the greatest of the load in the down position . your force is transfered from the motor through the thread to the carrier to the push rod to the box . now for our purpose a 10/32 treaded rod is plenty but you start increasing power and weight your gona brake something . most likely the thin threaded rod could start to bend or the body will push out at the rear hinge or in the front where your rod is connected . now like I said for what we do all the screw drive I've seen are sufficient , even over kill

IHSteve

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

travis , I have to correct you on 1 small thing . the thread does carry the load and the greatest of the load in the down position . your force is transfered from the motor through the thread to the carrier to the push rod to the box . now for our purpose a 10/32 treaded rod is plenty but you start increasing power and weight your gona brake something . most likely the thin threaded rod could start to bend or the body will push out at the rear hinge or in the front where your rod is connected . now like I said for what we do all the screw drive I've seen are sufficient , even over kill

IHSteve

Exactly Steve the block holds the weight and the rod provides the push.

[steamer]

Thanks guys, that helps a lot. I have a large sheet of paper in front of me right now and trying to put this down on paper. I've got the Rod thrust bearing and a piece of nylon for the slider and I'm just figuring out the length of the push rod. Looks like it's about 8". What's the normal tip angle for the box to empty, I've used 45 and hope that's high enough. I think now that I should have waited before I ordered the gear motor. I only ordered a 34 rpm and it's going to be way too slow. Look like it would be better in the 150 rpm range. Anyhow, thanks again for the help as I'm getting more on track.
Rob