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But where is the picture of the tire ? Mike
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knowing ralph already mounted to the axles
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#3
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Mike- Go back 2 pages to post #1093.
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I should have more material to make another one in a couple days. This time I got enough to make one with a hardness of 40, first one is 60 comparable to sneaker shoe. The 40 is comparable to wine cork. And I'll add a lot more pigment. Originally I figured two learning parts till I get one right. More of trying to figure out how soft I can make them. and if the first two "test" tires don't make the cut maybe another project, worlds largest 1:14 scale motorcycle!?!
![]() As far as the casting, this stuff has a pour time of 5 min. Sounds like plenty but mixing, degassing, and then pouring slowly, it starts to set up quick. It's not completely necessary to degass (vacuume) and that may give me more pouring time. I think what is happening is the material is starting to thicken while some of the bubbles are still rising. And the air has been introduced from the pouring into mold. I do t think I have enough time to pour half set mold top and box up before it thickens. But quick mixing and not degassing will keep it thin and hopefully that will allow any poured air to escape. And I did cut bigger vent holes on the two small ones. It's easy to grind the casting plugs flush so I would rather do that than have to fill big pockets. And they will always be on the non visible side anyway. So a couple days more before test number two. And then I should know what to get for the production line ![]() Oh and reg, I'll go check on that aeromax now, keep forgetting to , or getting sidetracked with all this silicone implanting , I ment casting stuff ![]()
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speaking from having absolutely no experience or knowledge about making tires,
instead of pouring the material into the mold. ( which I'm thinking is the major cause of air bubbles) is there a way to pump the solution into the mold from the bottom of it, or the "good side" and then trim the fill port when done? No pouring, no air?..... Just saying ![]() |
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So lemme get this right Cooper your doing silicone implants ?lol
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Steve |
#8
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Well Mario if Cooper had an factory then a injection machine might be ideal but I think he is doing great job and from the first test it looked like there weren't too many air bubbles I could be wrong though
But your idea is a good one as well
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Steve |
#9
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so instead of a $5000 dump truck cooper into it for $105,000.
keep plugging away r-dub and watch this https://youtu.be/QC5xzmeYP74 |
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Truck maker ,thanks for the post number missed a couple days of due to rib issues . Cooper when I use to moulding I got rid of those tiny bubbles you have at the top by putting it in a vacuum pot it worked well . Mike
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this what you did for the d11?
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Yup, same thing, bit the bullet and bought one of those models, scaled off of it. Also various pics, company brochure , and shop manuals. Pics from Mario will help. (Would be nice if cat would give me access to detailed manufactuering blueprint) blahhhhahahah
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Have you looked at this : http://www.the-blueprints.com/vector..._mining_truck/ You R doing AWESOME work Carry on ![]() |
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R W you might want to take a look here too. On page 17 there's a three view drawing of your truck. Load it on a zip drive and take it to your local copy center and have it enlarged so the axle wheel base is 14.571 and you'll have a drawing you can measure strait off of.
Good luck, she's going to be big!!! 32.5 L x 16" H x 19" W http://s7d2.scene7.com/is/content/Caterpillar/C637177 |
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Well I wasn't sure about power of the gearhead motors I got, so I got some new ones in mail, they are .55horsepower each. They should move it fully loaded
![]() Steve, thanks for the kaydon bearings, they are the slim type I was looking for, but,,,,, those little suckers are $100 or more for one!! Changed my ideas around on the axles to suit more practice bearings. I have almost 6" between rear tires and duel wheels spread almost 5" so plenty of room to hide motors/support bearings and anything else in rear axle. I also thought about 1:5 and 1:8 scale gas RC trucks rear differentials but I'm thinking they are even small for this!! And the gearhead motors I am getting have a 1/2" shaft, 1 1/2" long. Keyed and end hole tapped on shaft. That will make a really solid set up for removing load from motor shaft to the truck axle.
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This thing is going to be almost 3' long, 18" wide and with dump bed raised almost 32" tall. This may be on the limits of what I can comfortably carry around. !!!! One thing about this is it is a fast mover compared to the dozer, as long as it's is running I'll be using it to move me possibly!!!! I'm just guessing here but I imagine it should be able to haul about a five gallon bucket of material. Should be built to support 80 pound load or more.
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#19
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glad to see it all coming together brother, cant wait to see this bad boy i action!
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#20
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And don't forget the battery weight and size. Probably going to need a good sized one for decent run time. Or maybe wire up a whole bunch of those lipos you got should work.
![]() I'd hate to see you strain your back carrying the beast. Better build a tow cart or something for behind the ATV? ![]() |
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