KW Daycab "Pipe Dream"

[plow jockey]

Looking good!!! Now that you got your putty, ill be looking forward to some update pics. Has a mean stance. Nice work!!

[Bigrigger]

Originally Posted by plow jockey

Looking good!!! Now that you got your putty, ill be looking forward to some update pics. Has a mean stance. Nice work!!

Thanks Fred, much appreciated! You are doing a KW W900L, aren't you? I think I saw that.

[Bigrigger]

Update 7/17 "Gettin' Jiggy with It"

'Bout time, eh? I unwrapped my putty, and dusted off my cab! I'm back in it, and I forgot how hard it was to putty with precision! Anyway, I'm dicey at best with mixing ratios (you can tell by the putty color in the pics!), but I gave it my best. Puttied the gaps, sanded it up, and got rid of some rivets.



Rivets gone, and all puttied up! Note putty spots all over!



My attempt at angling the peak of the hood. Worked out better than I expected, still needs work.



Other side, note the different-colored putty...



Getting there...



Looks a lot like a Kenworth cab!





When I have an update, so will you! Let me know what you think!

Lookin' less like a dream every day...

[Trucker_Jo]

NICE!

[Espeefan]

What super secret body filler, putty, or glaze did you end up ordering? Must be some really special stuff! Looks like it sands and spreads smooth. Keep the updates coming.

[Bigrigger]

Originally Posted by Trucker_Jo

NICE!

Thanks Jo!

Originally Posted by Espeefan

What super secret body filler, putty, or glaze did you end up ordering? Must be some really special stuff! Looks like it sands and spreads smooth. Keep the updates coming.

It's a secret, sorry... Just kidding, it's US Chemical and Plastics Icing putty. #26006

http://www.amazon.com/U-S-CHEMICAL-P...sim_sbs_auto_1

It is a two part filler, so I hope it will last a long time! I'll get some work done today!

I'm really liking the thought of a dump truck, we'll see!

[Bigrigger]

Got some body work done today! I put a little piece of styrene on the point of the hood to make the ridge of the hood more steep.





Made the hood a little more pointed, like the 1:1. Fighting with my filler to get a smooth finish in some areas, and thinking about next steps for mounting fenders.

I have seen the KW grilles that people put on their rigs here, but they are to deep and ridged, mine will have to be custom. If anyone has a 3D printer they would be willing to print something on for me, let me know!

Let me know what you think...

[Bigrigger]

Tease it...





More pipe, less dream!

[Bigrigger]

Well, no major updates so far. Just putty and sand, putty and sand. However, I did hit it with some primer, and it looks great! Need to touch up here and there, but it is coming along.

I noticed that the filler was splitting from the plastic in areas... is that my bad? I'm using US Chemical and Plastics Icing #26006. It was recommended to me, and I think it is just because I used too much hardener. I also got some air pockets or something because I always get little holes in the putty.

Anyway... pics!



Here is the hood peak:



Still a little rough:





Fenders are waiting:





I'm using 1000 grit sandpaper at the finest, and apparently it isn't enough. Looks like I need to find some 2000...

Oh, and the big pipe is to make a dump bed.

Thanks for looking!

[Bigrigger]

Got some work done today!

Started on the fender sections that the light buckets go into. They look okay, but with some putty and sanding, they should look much better.

The big pipe is all marked up, and ready to be cut, along with some other thick plastic to build the rest of the dump box.

I'll post up some pics tomorrow!

P.S.

Anyone know how to bend PVC pipe? Maybe in the oven?

[Northwoods Timber toter]

Hey Bigrigger,

Benn reading your post. The issue with the putty is the prep in the surface you are putting it on. It has to be really clean especially being plastic. When they make plastic parts, even sheeting they use a product call mold release. It keeps the plastic from sticking in the molds. The plastics will absorb this stuff and make it a pain to work with. I the shop I used to work at we used a prep wipe, but deionized alcohol works well too. Also, go you can go to your local automotive paint store or even a local Autobody shop to find a product called "Adhesion Promoter" there a few different companies that make it. 3m is the most popular, but it's a little on the expensive side. One can would last a whole lot of builds!! That's why try a body shop, they might toss you a can that has a little left in for next to nothing or for free, Free is good!! Also with the putty, as long as your following the recommended mix rate you should be good, but general rule of thumb for glazing putties is 1' hardener for golf ball size of putty. Mixed a lot of putty in my Collision repair days!! : )

Love the build keep up the good work!!

[Northwoods Timber toter]

Woops! On the putty mix 1 inch of hardener to a golf ball size of putty. Not a foot! One last note 1000 grit is way too fine, you actually need to go coarser. Paint adheres on a chemical and mechanical level. Meaning the paint needs something to grab onto. I would g o with some 500grit. 3m also makes a product called Scotbrite. The stuff is awesome for prepping primer for paint! Use the "Grey" pads they work really good for models as they get in all the little nooks and crannies. Also available at an auto motive store or again stop by a body shop and they may just give you one. One piece lasts a long time.

[Northwoods Timber toter]

To bend PVC, use a heat gun. Work great! Oven will distort the whole piece as a heat is more concentrated and controlled

[Bigrigger]

Originally Posted by Northwoods Timber toter

To bend PVC, use a heat gun. Work great! Oven will distort the whole piece as a heat is more concentrated and controlled

Thanks for all the info! I'll look for those things on my next parts run.
I also think I may end up cutting the dump bed, to get a more even result.

Well, time to go to work on the cab...

[Espeefan]

Bigrigger, I'm looking forward to seeing some progress on the trailer. A half round end dump would be really cool to see. I never really thought about using PVC pipe for that. That's a great idea.

With my limited styrene, and body filler experience, all I can say is I hate trying to use filler. I've never gotten satsifcatory results, ever. The problems I've always had were because the filler cracked. Cracking is almost unavoidable when you have a plastic cab that can easily flex, and the putty cannot. It's best to build up low areas with styrene, to eliminate the needs for thick coats of filler. I've used a technique much like this one. Using this method, you can build up material, file, and then sand it smooth to the surrounding area. Like filler, you can also go back and add more, if you need to.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2m9rVrVNa6A

Also, roughing up the places you want to coat with some filler is a good idea. It cleans the surface and provides some teeth for the filler to grab. Just hit those spots with some 100-150 grit sand paper first.

[doodlebug]

When you cut the pipe length wise, it will spring shut and bind your saw!
Keep a couple of flat screw drivers or thin wedges, to alleviate that
Tenancy. Ive fought that problem with the small bazooka speakers, that i
I build for skid steer loaders. Looks great so far!
Cheers, Neil.

[Bigrigger]

Originally Posted by Espeefan

Bigrigger, I'm looking forward to seeing some progress on the trailer. A half round end dump would be really cool to see. I never really thought about using PVC pipe for that. That's a great idea.

With my limited styrene, and body filler experience, all I can say is I hate trying to use filler. I've never gotten satsifcatory results, ever. The problems I've always had were because the filler cracked. Cracking is almost unavoidable when you have a plastic cab that can easily flex, and the putty cannot. It's best to build up low areas with styrene, to eliminate the needs for thick coats of filler. I've used a technique much like this one. Using this method, you can build up material, file, and then sand it smooth to the surrounding area. Like filler, you can also go back and add more, if you need to.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2m9rVrVNa6A

Also, roughing up the places you want to coat with some filler is a good idea. It cleans the surface and provides some teeth for the filler to grab. Just hit those spots with some 100-150 grit sand paper first.

Thanks for the tips Nathan! I know, I should have used styrene, live and learn I guess.

The PVC pipe will be for a dump box, but since the 5th wheel is so easy to take off... Plus, I'll still have half a pipe left!

Originally Posted by doodlebug

When you cut the pipe length wise, it will spring shut and bind your saw!
Keep a couple of flat screw drivers or thin wedges, to alleviate that
Tenancy. Ive fought that problem with the small bazooka speakers, that i
I build for skid steer loaders. Looks great so far!
Cheers, Neil.

Thanks Neil, I'll make sure to grab a few when I work up the nerve to hack it up.

[Bigrigger]

I kept telling you guys about the light-buckets I was working on, so here's an update!

I just glued them up, got them level, and removed the 6-month-old tape (with Goo-Gone!).

These got the usual hacksaw treatment!





Like I said... hacksaw treatment.





Well, putty and sanding is on the schedule for tomorrow, I hope I have time!

[RodneyO]

Man this is gonna be a nice truck when it's done.Nice work

[Radio Control Trucker]

Thanks for posting the progress. I hope you get finished in time...

- RCT