53' custom box trailer build

[Just_Build_It]

I've been wanting to build another trailer but longer and better than my first box trailer. This time around I'm going to change a lot of from the last one I built. Spread axle is on the board for changes and I'm thinking of an auto hauler kind of like monster truck and NASCAR trailers. A single rear fold down door/ramp. Which has me thinking I haven't planned this out very well because the deck needs to be lower? Especially if I want to be able to drive cars unto it. A 6" high deck isn't exactly ideal but I still want to be able to use the tamiya chassis that I have.

[Just_Build_It]

Moving along. Cut the sides out. Still need some more cutting along the bottom portion and can't cut the wheelwells out until I spread the axles and get them into position. Then I'll be able to mark out where I want to drill for the lights.

[roadranger]

Car haulers have to be a low deck to drive in on, with smaller wheels/tires. Like the drop deck flatbed builds you see on here, for the chassis.
If your going to use a stock Tamiya frame rails stretched, with stock suspension/wheels, why not a 53" dry van or reefer box?

[Just_Build_It]

I'm starting to think a dry van would be my best bet with what I started with. Its 95° in my shop/garage and I'm beginning to lose patience. I might just have it "appear" to be something that it isnt.




I need to stop using so much wood, these projects might turn out better if I just used the proper material rather than being cheap and using scrap wood.

I can say that by doing it this way is teaching me on a low cost budget.

As for the spread axles I used two sets if axle suspension arms and used the pre drilled holes on the chassis which in turn lowered the deck 2cm and I was able to stretch the wheelbase without having to change anything on the frame rails.

[Just_Build_It]

This is what the side you can't see looks like.


I think that it needs to lowered a bit.

[Just_Build_It]

I fixed the deck height issue which wasn't too difficult but it still needs better bracing where the deck drops. I also need to cut out new walls once I get it all properly braced.

[Just_Build_It]

Really starting to make good use of the Tamiya flatbed. Floorboards why not use them for walls. The deck is perfect for an upper deck. After doing some measurements for the height of a typical NASCAR. I need to lower the upper deck another inch or so. Then I will start working on the aesthetics of the interior.

[frizzen]

That's really coming along!

Are you going to get a 1/14 car for it to haul too? I could see a stickered up mustang or rally car, or maybe a supercar roll out of that.

[Just_Build_It]

Thanks!

I'm going to look for a car that'll fit. The ceiling height might need to raised by an inch after I did some research on the height of a NASCAR and I'm about an inch too low.

Right now I'm focusing on the bottom deck framing for doors tool boxes/tables/shelves and whatever else.

[Just_Build_It]

I might be getting a little ahead of myself here but I had to use aluminum on the rear lift gate. It's still in the early stages and haven't figured out how to accomplish the lifting an tilting mechanics of the folding and lifting without hydrolics. I'll probably need to configure a simple pulley and winching system like a cable bucket for a crane.



I wish I had a milling machine so I could run a single rod across then have it pulled up and down for raising and lowering with a single wire in the middle for a winch.

[Just_Build_It]

After mulling it over I found if I wasn't an idiot, all I had to do was turn the "C" bar facing inward. Drill two hles on the "L" deck bracket and voilà, problem solved.


Its only mocked up right now but I'm going to make the deck able to drop down past the deck closer to the ground.

[Just_Build_It]

After many changes and head scratching, it has a rear door/lift. Needs to be extended by an inch to allow clearance for a 3.5" tall mystery car and that will be my goal for tomorrow.

[Just_Build_It]

The easy part is done. Now to get it functional via hands free.

[Just_Build_It]

Getting the lift gate situated and it will be functional.

[Cossett]

With the life cables and the rear do why not use screw drives and winches hidden in the roof ?

Cheers Tracy

[Just_Build_It]

Originally Posted by Cossett

With the life cables and the rear do why not use screw drives and winches hidden in the roof ?

Cheers Tracy

I've considered using screw drives for lifting the gate up but I'm not clear on where I would place the motors. For closing the gate I'm going to use a winch with two spools of cable for each side. A micro servo may be needed to get the first motion getting the gate to start folding down from the closed position.

I'm changing things as I go so all tips are very much appreciated.

[Just_Build_It]

One step forward and two steps back. I needed better bracing so I had to get rid of a lot that I can add later. I used some aluminum to make brackets to hold the upper deck without the gate falling backwards. I still need to add some screws to pull the gate closer to the deck at the top to get the 90° angle.



Once all that is taken care of I can start working on the gate more and add some folding ramps.

[Just_Build_It]

The cargo arrived today and fits like a glove.

In other news, I started polishing the aluminum then hooked up two of the four cables needed for lifting and levitation. The levitating is where I'm not sure how to accomplish yet but I love solving problems and scratching my head until it bleeds haha.

This is the cargo teaser, do you know what it is?

[frizzen]

Bmw, so maybe m3 or m5?

If i'm reading that right, the tailgate needs to go vertical to horizontal, so car can drive out, then stay horizontal while lowering vertically?

[Just_Build_It]

You're warm but neither of those particular BMWs.

Yes, you are correct about the vertical and horizontal gate. I need to come up with a way to lock it horizontal while going up and down.