WTF HAPPENED !!!

[bigford]

the problem with brake juice is not what happens today, but what happens
weeks,month or years later. I lost a Tamiya bruiser body to the juice
20 year old body started to crumble to a powdery pile

[Jakyat]

Originally Posted by Mikem

I agree with flat deck someone told me always use matching products and stay away from crappy tire . Mike

Me 3! I am new to this hobby, but I am fairly seasoned with painting. I do feel there is a reaction between two different brands of paint. My opinion anyways.
I have had the same thing happen to me. Now, I always paint something extra just so I can test for that reaction. Luckily, you aren't dealing with a plastic cab. I had this happen once while building a shelf model kit. By the time I had re-sanded and prepped it again, I ended up sanding off all the rivets and detail. I feel for you!!

[dabears]

Ive had that happen with the primer.. On a new washed cab... so I don't think its a reaction. its just the B**** of painting and temps etc... IDK I hate paint.

[luckless wolf]

personnaly I had this problem just because I painted in closed room so paint's "fog" didn't gone out
after test with same spare parts using same paints in my garden I didn't had problem anymore

[Cooper]

Without knowing exactly what paints used, it's one of the two,-- products weren't compatible or products weren't compatible and too thick of coats. Some useful tips in painting are now a days always use same product. A lot of different chemicals to flash faster/slower, thin/thicken time between coats are used in different companies and the paint may be compatible but the solvents may not. I think that may have been the case along with too thick of a coat. I've always experienced the talent in painting is having the discipline to prep correctly and to spray more coats at a very light covering. Try to do the detail (hard to cover or difficult to get to) first. On these types of things I've switched to all waterborne paints. Can still be used with a 2k clear. And you don't have to be that great at painting or to have a high $ paint gun. Spray cans are fine , just remember to start spraying then hit the part. You just have a harder time applying thin coats with cans. But treat it same, light light coats, read the labels and always make a test sample. The really good guys take the time and have the experience of reading the paint (its flash , thickness, and when to stop!!). The biggest hurdle I had was the discipline to stop when I was ahead not saying "oh there is a little spot that could use some more-then seeing a run cus I put too much on!"

[WhiteWolf McBride]

*Sigh*

Seen this all-so-often when using brake fluid... stuff has petroleum by-prods, and they can attack the plastic.

Me, I use 'Easy Off' oven cleaner, in the pump bottle, not the aerosol. That or sommat called 'Mean Green' bio-cleaner, or 'Castrol SuperClean' in the purple pump bottle.... they have never given me a post-use reaction like this.

All three are 'down-the-drain' safe, where officially, brake fluid needs to be disposed of at an approved depot, like tranny fluid, oil, paint, etc.

Just FYI...

WhiteWolf,
finally painting and assembling a few models...