JD 650H build

JohnStilwell · #1 03-08-2014, 08:19 PM

Well, I'm going to try to RC a diecast JD 650H dozer. My plan is to use Futaba 9157 (425 oz in) servos for the tracks and also the blade lift. I haven't found a clever way to angle the blade yet, so I might just skip that. I'm trying to keep this as stock as possible and retain as much weight as I can. Batteries are going to be fun to find a place for them, hoping I can do at least 4 sub C's at 5000 mah so I'll have a decent run time per charge.

The Box and unpacking:

Let's tear down: (yup, kinda a messy work bench, but it gets the job done... lol)
A couple of splined hubs from servo city worked perfect for mounting the sprockets to the servos. They just needed a 3/16 spacer glued between them to space the sprockets correctly for the tracks.

Track servo's installed:
Top view

bottom view, need an aluminum plate to mount the servo's

Back side, servo's don't stick out too far, I plan on mounting the hitch back on also

Starting on the blade lift servo mounting

I'll need a mill to make the mounting bracket and remove some of the metal to make room for the servos , so I got one of these. Wow, this thing is freakin' awesome

Thanks for looking
John

ekim · #2 03-08-2014, 09:34 PM

Very nice John. Your build gives me a bit of confidence in that I even may be able to do one as well.

Michael

Snochaser · #3 03-09-2014, 09:15 AM

Looking good.........but I wish you luck with the tracks, they are brittle and junk. Look great on the shelf but they won't hold up to movement. I'm looking for another solution for the tracks and drive system with this model, I've got all functions operating and my milling man is trying to figure the drive system and tracks.

Ben

JohnStilwell · #4 03-15-2014, 06:05 PM

Well, I hope the tracks will stay together... I've come this far

Here are some comparison pics with the Bruder D4. As you can see the outside to outside track width is about the same, tracks themselves are about the same width, the 650 H has a slightly longer track length and a wider blade.

Made some more progress, got the block milled to mount the servos, the blade lift working and now I sorting out where to put the electronics. These pc boards are from the servos, I had to take them apart to convert the drive servos to 360d rotation anyway, so I plan on mounting them below and inside the cab. Yup, the third one is for the blade lift servo, figured I'd do that one too. I used 2.2k resistors after removing the 5k pots which made them smaller footprint and easier to mount. I had to do the blade servo too, I messed up the pot taking this one apart, thankfully I had a spare one from the drive servos to replace it with. I'll line up 4 C cells in the lower half and put the power switch and charge jack just inside the cab door on the right side.

John

doodlebug · #5 03-15-2014, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snochaser

Looking good.........but I wish you luck with the tracks, they are brittle and junk. Look great on the shelf but they won't hold up to movement. I'm looking for another solution for the tracks and drive system with this model, I've got all functions operating and my milling man is trying to figure the drive system and tracks.

Ben

Hey Ben, is #35 attachment chain too big for this model?
Cheer's, Neil.

Espeefan · #6 03-16-2014, 09:06 PM

Always liked those Deere Precision series dozers! I'm looking forward to seeing the finished model. So far, so good! I didn't think it would be possible to fit all the electronics inside one of these to make it a functional RC model, but you look like you've got it figured out. Are those the servo circuit boards I'm seeing on the cab floor?

Cooper · #7 03-17-2014, 12:35 PM

Really cool!! Really small too!!!

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ory=1963256900

Here is a link to little machine shop, I have that same mill. This is a bolt on spindle lock. I originally purchased a quick change tool ER 40 or something like that size for the r8 spindle. I eventually changed and bought all r8 collets off eBay and now just use a dewalt impact driver to change r8 collets. I can change collets in about ten seconds. Just put a pin in the spindle lock and attach impact wrench to draw bar. Quick simple and effective. Plus it puts the tool closer to spindle increasing mill capacity and rigidity. It took me about an evening of tearing down and cleaning up the ways. For me it has been a perfect little mill.

Cooper · #8 03-17-2014, 12:43 PM

Oh and one more important thing, the spindle was getting really really hot. Even after proper spindle bearing break in. Found out that the spindle bearings were loaded too much. Took apart, added some proper grease (not just any but specific bearing grease) and reset the bearing load. Still runs hot on high load side milling but sounds and runs sooooo much smoother. Kind of a p.i.t.a. But a necessary step to get life and good results out of it.

JohnStilwell · #9 03-17-2014, 01:50 PM

Espreefan:
Yes, those are the servo boards. You can get everything inside and keep the Cab interior stock too, but the only blade funtion I have is lifting. I couldn't figure out how to do the blade angle and tilt without seriously altering the stock look.

Cooper:
I looked into that Mill as well, but decided on the Grizzly. I plan on an 7x9 or 8x16 lathe in the future, but that's after I either CNC or DRO the mill.
I'll keep an eye on the bearings, thanks for the heads up. Been running great so far.

John

Snochaser · #10 03-17-2014, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doodlebug

Hey Ben, is #35 attachment chain too big for this model?
Cheer's, Neil.

I think it may be Neil.

ihbuilder · #11 03-17-2014, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snochaser

I think it may be Neil.

#25 is the best size but they no make in K series . milling in 1 piece is best option for 1 or 2 units next would be cast but need to make many

Cooper · #12 03-17-2014, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnStilwell

Espreefan:
Yes, those are the servo boards. You can get everything inside and keep the Cab interior stock too, but the only blade funtion I have is lifting. I couldn't figure out how to do the blade angle and tilt without seriously altering the stock look.

Cooper:
I looked into that Mill as well, but decided on the Grizzly. I plan on an 7x9 or 8x16 lathe in the future, but that's after I either CNC or DRO the mill.
I'll keep an eye on the bearings, thanks for the heads up. Been running great so far.

John

That part was for a bf20. The g0704 is grizzleys name slapped on it. Many of those mills out there, they are more commonly refered to as bf20's. I too have a grizzly g0704 mill. Another place for a ton of info if you convert to cnc for this mill is hoss machine. This guy is nuts, like the craziest builder for these models he is towards bench top mills. http://www.g0704.com. Is one of the pages. Sorry to go off topic of the build, as I'm interested in watching this build. Lots of creativity you got there.

one thing I wish I would have gone in the lathe department is I wish I would have got one to where I can have a variable speed option for the lathe. I change speeds a lot and changing belts is a pain when I know variable speed lathes are out there. But future growth I guess.

JohnStilwell · #13 03-17-2014, 08:43 PM

Yes, BF20 is the common name for them, I believe it's based on a 20" X axis. I have read a lot on his site G0704 and watched a lot of Hoss' youtube videos. Yes, Hoss is the "Mad Scientist" of the small mills

Lot's of good ideas, but I haven't the funds currently to pursue adding features to my mill yet. I'm currently awaiting another custom dump box from "the master" Reg for my Mack build.

John