First build ,cat D11

[Lil Giants]

BRUTAL!!! Are you going to put in a claim with Premacon against the shipper?

This is the oil I use in my models, Mobil Hydraul 50

http://www.mobil.com/Canada-English/...l_Hydraul.aspx

[JAMMER]

Cooper I use Cat oil in my excavator with no problems the last jug I bought was $20.00 for 2 gallons. Ed

[Cooper]

So just some light weight hydralic oil would be fine? I was thinking jack oil? I have lots of hydralic/trans fluid from 1:1 equipment. The premacon hpl22 oil seems pretty light compared to regular hydra oil. Just want to be sure. I was also thinking a heavier oil would help seal better.

##%##ss. $$#¥!!!!!!! Darn!!!! I came to the conclusion that I have to make the tilt cylinders 1" longer. When the blade is fully lifted and till all the way back the back of blade contacts the lift cylinders. I. Guess my calculations and redneck cad drawlings were,,, well accurate as soon as I de-solder and attach a one inch longer piece, were spot on!!!

[Cooper]

[JAKEBRAKE]

Absolutely amazing job Cooper!!! That would look real if you placed that in the dirt.

[Cooper]

Only problem I ram into so far, I have to remake the cylinder head for the ripper tilt. I don't know what I did , mis read the dials, but it was too skinny and wouldn't seal.

[Cooper]

Got the radio and started on programming. It only took me about three hours to program all the mixing. . I'm not that familiar with programming and mixes. But once I figured it out it started making sense and became relative easy. I have the radio set up with the fan on a switch, on and off whenever needed. The blade dump and tilt is on one switch so all I do is flip switch to go from dump to left/right tilt. Then the ripper up/down and tilt are on another switch to change from blade to ripper commands. All the hydraulic servos are on a mix with the pump. So the pump only activates once stick movement is input. Somewhere I read that saves battery and gives smooth movement to hydraulics. Sounds good to me . And I do have the available switches for lights and sound when I get around to that.

So now it's time to start routing all the hydraulic lines.

[Cooper]

Another question---

On the pressur relief valve I have (from premacon) I can blow air through it. I tried to loosen the set nut and tighten the flathead screwdriver bolt (assuming tightening will increase pressur) and I can still blow air through. It is a little hard kinda like blowing up a balloon. But I'm pretty sure I'm not capable of 120psi with my lungs. Should I take it apart or is this how it should be?

[Cooper]

And I may have it backwards, is the pressur side on the bottom and the relief on the side? Or other way?

[RCP57]

Pressure in the bottom. I wouldn't think you should be able to blow through it! Either that or you should have taken over for Dizzy Gillespie.... Maybe it has crud in it not allowing the ball to seat?

[tracksntreadslou]

Hey coop the pressure will on the bottom opposit the set screw cover releif side ..there pretty simple insde ..set screw ,spring and a small ball bearing ..Looking good

[tracksntreadslou]

Sorry tried to edit ..releif off to the side

[Lil Giants]

In this photo it's the brass color fitting that the pressure line is applied.

I doubt your prv was preset to anything, they usually never are, you'll probably have to screw that bolt in a long ways before it starts making pressure. Somewhere between 16 & 20Bar (if your meter is metric) would be plenty.

Activate your whatever valve is on a switch ch so the oil is deadheading, to set your pressure & your hands will be free to make adjustments.

I was reading your programming summary, concerning your hyd pump, whether it's on a 2pos or 3pos switch on tx. Off is off & the next step of the switch you should set your EPA to atleast 30% so the pump is running while you are pushing b/c you will be constantly adjusting blade height & don't want that pump coming to a complete stop - then start again many times is a short period of time.

These larger pumps with big brushless motors do surge some amperage to initially start up, and if you are start/stop pump motor 20x (just a guess, don't know how many times it takes on avg) in a minute, you will over heat your pump esc & trigger the thermal protection shutoff, providing the esc has one. Then your pump will be dead until that cools off & allows your esc to function again.

Having your pump "mixed" with the valves, your pump will rev up to increase pressure & flow when a valve is activated.

[Cooper]

Ahhhh,, good point joe, (I think that's yr name?). I will program the pump channel to run about 30% and will also put it onto a switch at 100% so I can set the pressure.

I did get her to run today, wasn't expecting much. Figured something would be backwards or hooked up wrong but to my supersize my initial run was flawless!!! It took about 15 seconds before the blade lifted. I had some oil in the cylinders but a lot of air. Once it cycled through a few times everything worked and no binding anywhere. I was very very happy and one of the few times in my life something I did worked correct on the first time!!!! I did take apart the prv, I do believe something was stuck in it, cleaned and played with a bit then put back together. I think it may have had a bur on the seat. Had to take apart and work the needle and seat some a few times.

On the list of things to do;
--Get rid of the battery tray replacing with something that can be screwed together after the hydraulic lines are hooked up and routed. Giving me more access to whatever is under it.
-- have to remake the blade cylinder seal housings. I originally made them to accept a regular hydraulic seal but later converted them to using x-rings and o-rings. ,, they leak.
--paint the grill, windows, touch up things, ect,,,
--make some hydraulic line guides for the stabilizer bar, using zip ties for now.
--make the tank breather more accessible so I can use it to fill and change oil.

I did do a rookie mistake, I had been playing with it for several minuets and a bit of oil had leaked out from the lift cylinders. I probably didn't have enough oil in the tank to start with. Once it started working I was so excited that I just didn't pay attention to the loss of oil and lack of oil. The blade started sticking and becoming sticky on the way down (it was running out of oil and sucking air). So I thought I needed to increase pressure. I was thinking the prv valve wasn't working so I cranked it in. Well I can say the pump make good pressure, went up to 40 and ended with oil all inside . Figured I deserved that for not paying attention. It blew a hose, ripped a gash in it, it didn't come disconnected anywhere but rather the line opened up. It was the blue hose I have and it may be a tad weaker than the black. Feels a bit more flexible. So after cleaning and degreasing most of the underside I realized what happened and still was just tickled pink that it worked !!!

I will get some video of the next time she runs !!!! Thanks for the input frome everyone, I really appreciate your guidance and advise, definitely hooked on the scale construction toys. Already planning on converting the backyard koi pond into a large construction site!!! (My duck has disappeared and it has a hole in the liner so it needs fixed or replaced,, or converted to a giant open pit mine))

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/kOfcwsboWgY

Just had to put it back together for a short video. For some reason the lateral tilt isn't working properly, I may have messed something up with the radio. Oh well I'll be on the right track soon

[Lil Giants]

I think most everybody BLOWS a hose at least once while learning about mini hyds.

Good to see you are well on your way with all the programming & what not.

Would the problem with the lack of side to side tilt be b/c of the lift cyls? Perhaps at the same time you're reverse tilting, lift or lower lift cyls so one lift cyl will retract while the other extends... maybe? Seeings how the lift cyls are connected directly to the blade vs a U frame.

[Cooper]

Well the easy thing for me to do would be to make a pivot on the blade for the lift cylinders. But that isn't the right thing. I will get into adding another mix to lift channel so when tilt is enabled the lift cylinders will engage. Because they are on one valve it should enable all the pressure to go to one side resulting in relieving the opposing pressure created by the tilting. That's just going to cause some hair loss on my part involving that program mixing. Lol!!! On the first start up (no video taken of course) the tilting worked fine. I think that was a result in having some air in the cylinders/lines allowing some equalization.

On a good note, I found the cause of both lift cylinders leaking. When I drilled hole pattern for bolting shaft seal housing to cylinder I drilled into the side hole for lifting. They are soldered on but was careful to not add too much solder to run on inside of cylinder. That is allowing some fluid to follow the bolt threads and escape. I'll fix that. So for the most part my hydraulic system works well.

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/J7iC_Qik_J4

Got all the mixes working, now I just need to learn how to operate it!! I did put the pump on a switch that allows it to be off or on at 35%. The other mixes still work how they should, when engaged the pump reves up. The fan is also on a switch. That thing is quiet. I did remake the battery tray allowing me to take it out by unscrewing a few screws. That allows me access to lines, chain tensioner, breather for tank, just makes it sooo much easier to get in. I'll post some pics when I'm not on my phone later.

[avel]

Holy crap your drive motors are quiet! That thing is a beast!

[Cooper]

Where do you guys get the decals? Do you make your own?