Perry's Leimbach Build

[Texasperry]

I did finish the tracks last night. Tediouse work. As the saying goes "Had I known then what I know now". I would have assembled the tracks differently, but done.
The pics I lost were of the assembly of the cab and engine cowel.
Dan I am afraid to admit I may be the same person you recall. I purchased this machine almost 4 years ago. Health issues with my in-laws have put my family life in a tail spin. It has been one crisis after the next for the past few years. Cancer, move,death, a fall, COPD, plus the whole host of psycological issues my wife has developed that rise from all the termiol with her family.
I would like to think things are stabalized now, but I know better. We just had another issue come up Sunday. So I am grabbing all the time I can to build.
Perry

[modelman]

Perry-I know what you are going thru with the parents. I went thru this in 1992. It can drive you insane but just remember to cherish the time you have left with them. I'm still not over it yet but things get better with time. As strange as it may seem I guess now I am next in line for the "dirt nap". Oh well, life goes on, enjoy it while you can.

[JAMMER]

Perry if you don't mind me asking what did you find out about the tracks that you would do different? I know Joe said to drill out the holes to 1/8 inch and use graphite spray on them. I am going to have to do my dozer tracks and I don't imagine they are much different. Any help would be appreciated. Ed

[Texasperry]

Ed, First I tried Joe's suggestion of drilling out to 1/8. Apon re- assembly I still had binding. I determined it was the pads binding on each other. I bent each pad on one end up just a touch so they would not rub and bind. Of course filing the burs from drilling was also time consuming. I tried a dremmel but did not have good results. Mini file worked best for me.

As for what I would do diferent. It would be to spend more time fitting as I assembled. I thought I did well. First I assembled the links. No binding at that time. Then I put the pads and grouser pads on. That is when I first noticed binding.I should have stopped then and determined the problem. I figured it would work itself out once I lubed and ran them a bit. Well the move happened, While in storage the track links and pads got a bit of rust on them. They were much worse when I unpacked them. Decided to do something about it.
Next I need to star fitting hydraulics and electronis. I sure wish i had more pictures.

Modelman thanks for the kind words.

[JAMMER]

Perry thanks for that I surely appreciate that. So I take it I have to watch the pads and make sure they aren't binding that makes cents to me. Well like I said thank you very much. Ed

[Thorsteenster]

Originally Posted by SmallHaul

Nice build. That looks like a lot of fun to make!

A big X2 on that, I think I'd almost enjoy building it more than running it!

I think that is a big draw to them for me getting one at some point, the build.

[Texasperry]

Did some tinkering last night. The drive motors are wired up. I started to work on the wireing for the Hydraulic pump and slew (I thinkthat is what its called, or turret) I needed to do some translating on google and the wife was using the PC last night. I'm stuck on what wires go where. There are no good pictures or diagrams. So I am stalled again. I do not want to put power to the wrong component and burn things up. The funny thing is I got one warning page in english. It says if power is connected wrong parts are not warrantied.

[JAMMER]

Now isn't that nice of them to put just that in English. Well just tell them you don't understand. Ed

[Texasperry]

Spent time Yesterday and today translating. I think I know what I need to do to move forward. However I need parts. T's and fellules and battery connector. Too bad because I had time to work this weekend.
One off the instructions I translated said to use the ferroid magnets on the servos. and on the hydraulic pump motor. I put one on the pump.
Has anyone used the ferriod magnets on the servos?

[Espeefan]

Perry, do you mean ferrite magnets? They are stronger magnets, which would give the motors more power. I can't imagine trying to install ferrite magnets on the servo motors. Especially knowing how small the servo motors are, and knowing you are running micro servos.

[tracksntreadslou]

Hey Perry are you talking about the round magnets about 3/4 diameter with the hollow center..if so they are suppllied to stop electrical interferance for your radio.../if you check with Willy he has a thread explaining about twisting your wires ..I think that would do the same thing ..I put 1 on my pump and that seems to work fine with no probs .

[Lil Giants]

You wrap the wires thru the ferrite rings at least three times, helps to cancel out the interference. Do the pump, each track motor and with the micro servos, just twist all three leads together. I have virtually no interfence with my Stahl excav.

Leimbach's esc, pic 27 in the manual (from left to right) plug for BEC, +/- main switch, +/- swing motor, track motor. It clearly depicts in the photo which terminal is positive & which is negative --> don't mix them up! The red wire with a black stripe is NEGATIVE ground.

[Texasperry]

Joe, Lou and others, Thanks for the information.
Some is lost in translation.
I did manage some time at the bench yesterday and today. I took apart the mono boom and thread the hydraulic line for the quick release through the boom. I also had to take the cabin off so I did some work on it. I did not like the fit of the interior. I hope to connect the rest of the hydraulic lines maybe later today. I need to get the T's and deans plugs to go much farther.
Here are most recent pics.





This was my solution to add the Xtra valve block. The hydraulic connections are on the side you can not see and the reason for the space.


Servo instalation and cutting of the servo Horn

[Texasperry]

I'm in trouble withe the wife, shot Hydraulic fluid all over the carpet.
But my real problem is my hoses seem to kink easy.
I was wondering if that is because I do not have fluid in them?
If I pull slack to where it does not kink, It seems I have hose sticking out a lot more than pictures of other machines on this site.
Perry

[Lil Giants]

I'd stuff that extra valve where the filter can presently is and then put filter can between the reservior & servo. You'll want the left side open to place two AA batt packs for reasonably good run time.

[tracksntreadslou]

You dont want to install the hoes with any kinks and restrict the flow
Hey perry word of advice The first picture with the speed control ...there is a small electrical unit that plugs in to the speed contrrol...If i remember corectly it bolts to the inside of the counter weight with insulated bushinging so it doesnt ground out make sure it is properley installed ...I failed to do so and completely cooked my unit...These are very expensive speed controls ..Mine is now replaced with a sabertooth

[Texasperry]

Thanks Lou and Joe
I am pretty diligent about trying to translate the German instructions. There were two sheets in english included. One was the warning about the voltage regulator and speed controller you spoke of, and one about starting the hydraulic system.
Based on what you wrote my machine is going to have big loops. I will have to rework the bottom cylinders I did last night. I cut the pieces to the instructions. If I set the loop so there is no kink it will not reach the valve blocks. I guess I will also come up short on hose now.

Joe: I wanted to put the extra valve on the other side. There did not seem to be enough room the hose wanted to kink coming off the fittings. I do see your point on battery time and I was thinking about it myself. I will have to do some more thinking on places to put it. Or try to find 90 degree fittings and stuff it in tight. I am not sure where I will place the filter can either. I had it screwed down and it interfiered with the cowel. so I pulled it back out. Ric is not available to help me with parts right now. One step forward two back.
P

[Lil Giants]

hmmm, Leimbach usually puts 90 degree fittings on their valve blocks... though it wouldn't surprise if the dyck you got that valve from swapped in straights so he could sell the 90's for three times the price of a straight?!

I don't bolt the filter can to anything. Cut the hoses to proper length and it'll stay in place.

The hoses will kink a bit if you try to bolt the 3 valve in it's stock location. I redrill and tap the holes for it 5mm back so the hoses have some room to fit around the swing motor.

The bottom cyls (boom cyls), you cut the hoses per the instructions, then fit each paired hoses thru the holders to the "Y" fitting, then go to the valve. It shouldn't be a problem with kinks.

[Texasperry]

Thanks Joe,
The auxilery block came with straights. I was wondering if I was going to run into trouble with the swing motor and valve block. I won't wait to find out. I'll just move the valve block. I tried to call my contact in Ohio I used to by Festo parts from. But he does not handle anything that small. I do not have a source other than Garden trucking at this time, so my hands are tied.
Trying to get this thing done before the next family crisis.

Thanks for your advice.

[Texasperry]

Given the recent events in Rics life and another mini crisis with my mother in law, I have not had any time on the machine.
Given some of the recent advice laid on me, I think I have enough to take up what time I can invest in the machine until I can get parts. That is if Ric continues his business.