LilGiantsConstrCo

[Lil Giants]

Travis, currently in the 850 there is two Sabertooths, 2x12 & 2x25, both esc's have the red wires installed.. that should give me more than enough current?

My Stahl adt, the BEC from the 2x12 wasn't enough to power the rx, so I added an external 4.8v batt too.

The 2x10 in my last Stahl excavator, same problem with a 2x12, added a 4.8v rx batt. Both the Stahl hoe & adt have the red wires installed with an external batt, what is the reason to have either or, but not both? Or is it not to have two esc's providing BEC together? ..although I'm doing that in the 850.

Lou, it's #2.. originally my short KH 6x4, 2002. I swapped frame rails with a GL that I bought at the same time #3, that GL later became the green 6x6. Then I made that KH short trk a 6x6 and added the white GL body from an ebay parts trk I got in '06 maybe. Motors, trans & frame rails would be all that's original since building it the 1st time, everything else has been R&R'd a few times. This trk would definitely have a few hundred thousand scaled kms, pulling that bd trl 99% of the time.

[Espeefan]

Joe, speed controllers with internal BECs have limitations in what current they can supply to the other loads you are powering. Often times the BEC voltage and current is listed in the spec sheet for each speed controller. The catch is the max current rating is usually decreased, as input battery voltage increases. A speed controller might be able to supply 6 volts and 5 amps, running a 7.2 volt battery pack, but when you bump the voltage up the BEC capacity decreases. Or under a heavy load, the internal BEC just can't keep up, especially when the speed controller is already driving some power hungry motors, consuming a lot of current. Your ESC either thermals and shuts down, or the servos get glitchy.

I'm all for running external BECs in such situations. It's the best way to solve the problem. By doing so, you are relieving the ESC of two jobs. Running a motor, and supplying power to your servos, via the internal BEC. In high performance applications, where every little bit counts, running an external BEC will allow the speed controller to put everything into the motor(s).

In the case of running dual (or more) speed controllers on one model, people sometimes recommend you pull the power wire out of the additonal speed controller's plug and let just one speed controller's internal BEC handle powering the servos. I think otherwise, and here is why. If your speed controllers are identical, then the internal BEC voltage and current output of each speed controller will be identical too. The internal BECs will work together, just like dual battery packs in parallel, which basically means the current draw will be split between the two internal BECs. Make sense? I think it does, and I have run dual motor models this way with no ill effects, and no external BEC. The key is to make sure you turn the power switches 'on' for both ESCs, even though turning just one 'on' will power up the other automatically. I used to run my dual motor, dual ESC rock crawlers like this. It worked just fine for me, and that was powering two power hungry high torque steering servos, plus the drivetrain motors.

Now in the case of running an external BEC, I definitely agree that the power wires for each ESC should be pulled out of the plug. The ESCs will all power up together, as soon as the external BEC is switched 'on'. No big deal. Or you could run a separate rx battery pack too. Either way, the results are the same. I would not recommend trying to use the speed controller's internal BEC along with a battery pack, or an external BEC. Reason being is the voltages could be very different, and you might burn something up. Some external BECs are voltage adjustable, and some aren't. Best to just let the external BEC work alone in either case.

I hope this helps and makes sense.

[pigeonfarmboy]

What he said. Good explanation.

Most companies don't care much about BEC efficiency. Just because it says it's a 5amp BEC doesn't mean it can keep up under large loads. You could use a Novak 5amp and a Castle in the same configuration and every time the Novak will perform better because they test the components efficiency to very high standards. Servos are the same way. Different brands pull more/less power. Hitec for instance are generally amperage hogs.

[Lil Giants]

Thanx again for the informational post Nathan.. and Nathan. I'll just keep doing what I'm doing then, double up BEC's from multiple esc's -> as long as they are running on the same volatges & putting out the same BEC voltages, too much current likely will never will be an issue.


Just got home from xmas in the city the last 5days.. went to a large general tool/automotive store this morning (Princess Auto), got lost in there for about 3hrs and I found this nifty little bilge pump .. suppose to be capable of putting out 170 -200 gph meant for boats & what not, runs on 12v.

Outlet is 7mm id -> taper it down to 3 or 4mm should produce pretty good press for either a nozzle or spray bar the width of trk. Put it on an esc to vary the voltage, which will vary the press & flow. It can be totally submerge, so I'll just put it right in the tank! Start building my water hauler here shortly for the floor dig.

[doodlebug]

Hey Joe, How about a portable water tower? http://www.machinerytrader.com/listi...x?OHID=6930395
Cheer's, Neil.

[edwalsh18]

Originally Posted by Lil Giants

... Start building my water hauler here shortly for the floor dig.

YES!!!! oh thats great! i cant wait to see it! another truck i really would like to see! do you know what kind of truck you want to build?

[RCLogger]

Originally Posted by Lil Giants

Thanx again for the informational post Nathan.. and Nathan. I'll just keep doing what I'm doing then, double up BEC's from multiple esc's -> as long as they are running on the same volatges & putting out the same BEC voltages, too much current likely will never will be an issue.


Just got home from xmas in the city the last 5days.. went to a large general tool/automotive store this morning (Princess Auto), got lost in there for about 3hrs and I found this nifty little bilge pump .. suppose to be capable of putting out 170 -200 gph meant for boats & what not, runs on 12v.

Outlet is 7mm id -> taper it down to 3 or 4mm should produce pretty good press for either a nozzle or spray bar the width of trk. Put it on an esc to vary the voltage, which will vary the press & flow. It can be totally submerge, so I'll just put it right in the tank! Start building my water hauler here shortly for the floor dig.

Joe You have that water hauler built yet ? Time to post some photo's..

Happy New Year !

Greg

[RCLogger]

Any updates Joe

You been busy fixing ?

[Lil Giants]

I haven't done anything with the bilge pump.. I intend to use the green GL to carry the water tank, removing the dirt box takes no time, but I've been using that trk daily in the quarry. A very slow drip with the garden hose is working really well atm for soaking up a large area deeply over night.

And I have been doing alot fixing lately too.. got my dozer working again, turned out the gh motor broke loose from its glued mounting ring, glued it back in a wk ago.

I got this Scale Art loader last spring used from a guy in the states.. I'm not overly impressed with it and now 6 months later the Carson is available & it looks 10x better for function! I sent S/A a note asking how to increase hyd press? They never replied. This loader lifts so slow with a bucket full of dirt & won't lift at all if I'm pushing into the pile. I've had the tracks off twice now to fix the drives.. 1st was a roll pin deep inside the gearbox, I used a 1/16 drill bit cut to length in place of the roll pin. Now the drive pin in the drive sprocket sheared off ...these drive motors have a ton of power! Some 2mm drill bits showed up in the mail yesterday to make the fix.



Something I noticed right away with the S/A loader was how poor the bucket radius was near ground level.. currently I have plastic bucket on it from a Bruder 963 & it's distance from the top link to the arm pivot is about 5mm less than oem. But the Bruder bucket is about the same width as the oem & they're both too narrow, there's about 3mm of track sticking out either side. I need to make a new bucket.. next yr's project in my new workshop.



Some dump angle has been lost at the very top of the lift arm travel, a new design for the z link needs to be done too.



I've also been tinkering at the mystery model I got last Spring, got to get it done for this summers activities outside.



I got a new battery yesterday, 180amps, that'll fit nicely in the nose of D9Joe's dozer, gets some needed weight upfront.. just gotta tear out the hyds & electronics to redo it all, get this model working as good as it looks.





I've been eyeballing the blue hyd-lift bench that D8R Dan's 1/5,6 scale dozer sits on in all his pics, they're both probably the same bench (820mm x 520mm).. gives you a nice comparison shot at the difference in the two scales of virtually the same dozer.





And nearly everyday for a few hrs, either digging down in the floor or processing last yr's dirt from the wall (which is now dry) & using it for backfill.. that dirt is almost gone & the cribwall might be half full. I'll take pics later of the digging I've done lately.

That should be enough to keep your moejoe going for awhile, eh Greg?!

[Snochaser]

Nice updates Joe. I will agree with you on the bucket width of the 963, it does need to be wider for sure. I wish I had somewhere to log the hours on my equipment like you do.

Ben

[ihbuilder]

"Some dump angle has been lost at the very top of the lift arm travel, a new design for the z link needs to be done too."

I have the same issue on my 990 . When scaling off the the sales brochure it's hard to get the right shape of the pivot bar .With my archaic cad program it's hard to simulate the movement .Good note to that is I got a new 1 made up that should fix it . I'm surprised that with what they are brought up to be , they don't have the means to simulate before production or worked it out with the prototype . I guess if no one complained no need to worry

would be nice to see that D9 south again this spring . hint hint

[catmack]

Lil' Giant,

Who makes Carson?, is it a loader? and are those the one piece metal tracks on your 963?

[catmack]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

"Some dump angle has been lost at the very top of the lift arm travel, a new design for the z link needs to be done too."

I have the same issue on my 990 . When scaling off the the sales brochure it's hard to get the right shape of the pivot bar .With my archaic cad program it's hard to simulate the movement .Good note to that is I got a new 1 made up that should fix it . I'm surprised that with what they are brought up to be , they don't have the means to simulate before production or worked it out with the prototype . I guess if no one complained no need to worry

would be nice to see that D9 south again this spring . hint hint

IhSteve,

What CAD are you using and does it do 3D?

[Lil Giants]

This is Carson
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.co...ead.php?t=5562

Yes.

Steve, there is no curve at all. Unless Cabin Fever in York changes back to January, I'll never be at another one.

[Azonic]

Ohh so you have bought that dozer? Isnt that the one with the scraper, or am i wrong?

[ihbuilder]

Colin , acad 2004 2d/3d

Joe , I just fitted my new z bar up works near perfect . Little adjustment on the cylinder boss on the machine and I think I got it I took the curve mostly out . the change in date has me all messed up . It puts 2 show within a month for me looks like the loader will be doing the road building this year . It'll do it with ease , just not fast like a dozer

[Lil Giants]

It should be quicker than a dozer Steve b/c you don't have tracks that will plug up with soil.

At the Napa store again this morning I discovered a different battery that's the same LxW, just 20mm higher & nearly double the amps @ 310.

Yes Kalle, I got the pan scraper too. I hope to get some time doing some landscaping in my machine shed this summer with the combo, carve the hump out of the middle so I can stuff more machinery inside out of the UV light. Also might clean out my barn with the dozer too, D9Joe made me a root rake that bolts directly to the blade, which should work well in the straw/manure.

[D8R]

Yes Joe, that´s the same size, maybe some mm narrower.
The D9 looks good with all wearing, guess it take some time to get that, looking forward getting mine dirty!
From videos earlier it looked like ground was quite hard, can the D9 push it directly or do you have to make it little softer? Maybee a ripper could do that?
Dan

[Lil Giants]

All the wearing currently on this dozer had been done by D9Joe Lewis. I've never ran it, just brought it home this way from the St Louis meet last Oct. D9Joe had nothing but bad luck the last day he had it in his control, kept blowing hyd lines. I'm assuming the hyd lines are from McMaster Carr? I've never had a problem with the hyd lines I get from Germany.. perhaps a different chemical make-up than the USA manufacture?

On another note, I finally found the next dump trl I intend to make, it's a side dump.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=YKirDV4pgyQ
Few of you will probably remember aaronsride from the yahoo group I started a decade ago, Aaron showed me pics of a b train similar to this he'd seen in his area (8-10yrs ago) & I never forgot how trick it was that the sidewall went up & the floor extended out. Now if I could find PDF's with measurements of the pivot points to cut down on trial & errors.

I also found another wicked design end dump combo unit that I've never seen before (it was in the same article page), it sure is slick how it works for two end dump trls. Might do this too a few yrs from now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=pWeKcZ2RBsc#!

[Snochaser]

Joe, How is the other nameless project coming along you hinted at and we talked about in St. Louis? I was hoping the manufacture was going to build what we discussed so I could have it in less time than doing all the R&D and building.

Ben