Ripper Actuator Operational Test

[dozerbuilder]

Quad ripper actuators all completed and running nicely.


Here's the hardstand https://youtu.be/6e8iKtJZSnUtest.

[dozerbuilder]

Setting up the blade lift rams now.
First pic shows drawing of new lift ram super-imposed over the existing lift rams (which have now stripped out the gears like an onion peeler and torn the thrust bearing off the little screw rod).

Second pic shows the blade fully raised using the drawing. Plenty of clearance.

Third pic shows blade at max dig depth, plenty there.

Fourth pic shows the parts I made up this afternoon for 2 x lift rams.

Hoping to get a set finished in a day or two and get them mounted on a plank and do a lift test on them with a digital bag scale. Expecting about 11lbs each. Bag scale shows it take 12.1lbs to raise the front idlers off the ground with the blade down-pressure so 11lb each should provide enough reserve.

Note that a blade doesn’t need the lift strength of say a Traxcavator or say an excavator since it’s a simple lever –type lift pivoted on the trunion balls and draft arms so if I can get 11lb each it’ll do the job. The parts you see cost $20. These lift rams could be made any size for any model, a plastic BruderD11 or a big tractor like Bare Bones BB11 for instance, in fact the larger the better because you can user larger planetary gear motors in those lift tubes. I’ve done away with those useless brass-spur gear arrangements and moved to GA16 100rpm planetary gear heads with steel gears and 3 planet sets in the gear head. The ripper actuators are gonna get the same motors when I’ve complete the blade actuators.

I hope to have these mounted on the tractor in a couple of days and see how they perform in a field test.

[RCP57]

They look nice. I'm guessing there is not any way of electronically setting up end travels on these the way you are building them?

[dozerbuilder]

Originally Posted by RCP57

They look nice. I'm guessing there is not any way of electronically setting up end travels on these the way you are building them?

Right on the money RCP, that's the downside if there is one. There may be electronically, but I'm not too cluey about it. I'm accomplishing that in a roundabout way by inserting a small roll-pin in the exit end of the ACME shaft simply acting as a mechanical stop as the acme nut contacts it so it can't spit the piston right out at full extension. Raising, it simply will stop at the end of travel.

However, there's plenty of piston in the tube so plenty of warning. With an acme, it won't jamb or bind like a conventional thread I've found so taking it to the stops does not cause it to bind up tight. It'll let go easily when reversed. It's not perfect but they are super strong. A work in progress.