Steamer

[doodlebug]

Hey Rob, missed the video first read. A few year's ago, I remembered seeing a tranfer box that didn't latch properly, the full box of asphalt slid out of the truck and into the paver hopper, WHAT A MESS.
I like the hydraulic tailgatelift on the truck. Airlift suck's!
Later, Neil#2 aka doodlebug.

[ihbuilder]

Rob Here's some close pics





I actually wanted to go with hydros but I had a problem finding the right cylinders . Meaning length to stroke ratio . to get the right stroke the cylinder was way out of proportion to the truck .

IHSteve

[steamer]

Jared. Thanks for the comments. You bet I like the transfer too. And the setup with two trailers would even be more fun. The Beall video shows the stirrup arrangement for the transfer box locks and that doesn't look complicated. I have a small gearbox that came with a winch from RC FWD and I think it will work for the transfer system. I've got servos coming to try the high lift tailgate so we'll see how that goes.
Neil. I can imagine what a mess that would make dumping the box in like that. I think I'll try an arrangement with the truck tailgate lock so when it opens the transfer tailgate locks it also locks the transferred box in. Hope that makes sense.

I guess I should have photoshop'ed my truck in there pulling the two trailers.
Rob

[steamer]

Steve. Thanks for the pictures. I guess we were both posting at the same time and I missed yours. Looks like a great setup and I'll start making some drawings up tonight.
Rob

[Jared]

Originally Posted by steamer

I think I'll try an arrangement with the truck tailgate lock so when it opens the transfer tailgate locks it also locks the transferred box in. Hope that makes sense.
Rob

I see a dropped tub in your future. What happens when the tub gate is locked and you drive up or back down a hill? You got me thinking of ideas now. I'd love to see a transfer modeled so I'm gonna do some brainstorming to help out, if you can call it help . Maybe the tub locks could be set up so when the horns on the front of the trailer poke into the back of the truck to line it up, they push on a plunger that's hiding in the hole that is attached through some kind of linkage to the locks. So when the truck backs up to the trailer, the horns push the plunger which releases the locks so the tub can be transferred and when the truck pulls away the locks drop down and lock automatically. To lock the tub onto the trailer, there could be hooks fixed in place on the trailer that the tub would slide into and the chain would hold the tub in place against the hooks. I hope that makes sense. If it doesn't I'll try to draw a cartoon.

[Lil Giants]

Originally Posted by Jared

I see a dropped tub in your future. What happens when the tub gate is locked and you drive up or back down a hill?

Can the trk's tailgate close with the transfer box inside?

Infra red controls on trk to each trl to activate trl locks, trl brakes, trl slide motors?

[doodlebug]

Hey Joe, on the transfer's I've been around, the truck tailgate stay's open or up, when the transfer box is in it. I haven't figured out how the transfer tailgate open's in the Beal video, have to watch again. Dropped tub no biggie in rc, 15lbs vs 15 ton's lol!
Later, Neil#2 aka doodlebug.

[Jared]

Originally Posted by Lil Giants

Can the trk's tailgate close with the transfer box inside?

The tub sticks out of the truck a foot or so so it can't close but it can be lowered partway to rest on the tub to allow loading over the tailgate with an excavator or to lower the clearance. That gives me an idea, though. Locks could be rigged up so the lift gate drops just a little and hooks on the underside of the lift arms grab a bar on the top of the tub that sticks out sideways. It wouldn't be prototypical but it would simplify things.

[steamer]

Jared. Have you been to the Beall site. They use a hydro motor and a chain sprocket under the truck box that engages the stinger on the transfer box . On the bottom of the stinger they use chain to grab the sprocket and that how they load the box.
I'm going to use that small winch gearbox with a gear attached and on the transfer box install a rack gear of the same pitch, so basically it's the same thing. With the ratio of the gearbox the only way it's going to move is under power, so i don't think it may fall out. It's a five reduction box and RC rates it for three pound pull so being on the flat with rollers under the box it should transfer quite well.
http://store.rc4wd.com/Replacement-G...nch_p_982.html
I haven't looked for rack material yet, but I do know that it is available in nylon and that should be plenty strong for the job.
Rob

[Jared]

I've seen those Beall trailers but I've never seen them up close. I just watched Beall's Transdrive demo video and I have to say I'm not impressed with the overall setup. Not having to hook up hoses is neat, but I think hoses also allow more flexibility. And the two front trailer axles is just stupid in my opinion. There are times when you get in a tight spot and the only way to turn around is to pull the tongue around 135 degrees or so and hook up with the truck facing the other way. Ain't no way to do that with their two-axle setup. And they have the tub locks inside the front of the truck box where they can get trashed by boulders and stumps and concrete chunks and gum up with dirt. All my experience is with Knight, General and Columbia which are like Beall's NW hydraulic transfer and just from watching the video I like them better. But that's my $.02 worth. For modeling the Beall transdrive should be just fine.

I think McMaster-Carr has rack material.

[ihbuilder]

"I think McMaster-Carr has rack material."


yes they do both nylon and steel and I think brass

[steamer]

Thanks guys I've heard that MC won't send to Canada any more, so I've sent them an email. Let's hope that they will because they have what I need. The only reason that I was going to use that drive was so I wouldn't need to connect any power to the trailers. But on second thought I need a method of braking the trailers to recover the boxes, otherwise they'll just push away. It goes from one thing to another and i guess it's one step at a time.
Rob

[Vanisle]

QTC Gears will ship to Canada by USPS but it takes awhile for them to get something in the mail.

http://www.qtcgears.com/

I have an extra set of their catalogues if you want them.

I will be going to Blaine in mid-April if you can't get McMaster-Carr to ship to Canada. I can get it shipped to Blaine and pick it up there for you. PM if you want.

Richard

[steamer]

Well I got my answer back from McMaster-Carr and it wasn't the one I was hoping for. They won't ship to this side of the border anymore because of the ever increasing complexities of the US export regulations. End of quote. But I may have found the a way around the problem and I'll keep you posted if it works.
Rob

[Finster]

Rob,

Your truck looks fantastic! I love the paint job and the colors you picked. If the picture of it was taken outside instead of on a table I'd swear it was a full 1:1 truck. Great job. No matter what you decide to do with the trailer I'm sure it will complement your truck nicely. I got a couple of questions, if ya don't mind:
Did you make the dump body out of styrene or Al? What thickness' did you use for the most part? Also, did you ever get a chance to draw up that diode reversing switch circuit that you are using on the screw drive? Thanks, keep up the good work.

[steamer]

Brian. Thanks for the comments on the FWD. I actually painted my truck to match one that we did for a customer in 1968 and it was a favourite as soon as I saw it come down the assembly line. That box and the one I'm building for the trailer are made with
3mm styrene. It cuts real easy with a table saw or you can score and snap for the bigger pieces. For small strips I found it worked best with a band saw set up with a fence, to get strait edges. I tried to do the drawing on one of the cad programs and it was to frustrating so I'll do it the old fashion way after supper and post it tonight.
Rob

[steamer]

Simple diode circuit. Hope I explain it good enough.
1 just a motor and if you reverse polarity, motor runs both ways.

2 if you add in down stop switch, motor power will be cut at bottom stop. Make the switch adjustable to get box to stop were needed. With this setup the box will not go back up again because S1 is now open and no power will flow either way, IE, reverse polarity.

3 A diode is simple blocking device that lets current flow one way, Anode + to cathode - but blocks power from flowing backwards. The power flows toward the white band but not the other way. Because of this if you install one across your switch it will allow the power to reverse the motor and the box will go back up. The diode is out of the circuit as soon as the box starts moving in the up direction and S1 closes. The one I used is a
1N4002 available at Radio Shack.
I've made a rough drawing for the three circuits shown



If there's anything not clear enough, just ask thanks.
Rob

[Finster]

Rob,

Thanks for the diagram and explanation. I'm pretty sure I get what's goin on. I'm not sure what CAD program frustrated you but if you ever need help with AutoCAD just ask. I'm sure I could help because I've used it for many years. I look forward to more of your updates.

[steamer]

Question. Does anyone know the length of the reach on a transfer trailer. I can't find any info on the net and there's not one around here to measure.
Thanks Rob

[chaseracer]

I will see is I can find out for you this week or next I have a couple coming in that I have to load just not sure when.