D8R +463 in 1/5,6

[Izzy]

Wow - great model and beautiful detail - thanks so much for the show pics as well - great to see - I have yet to see anything that compares here in the US. And the local scenerie was great too - that's one outstanding Castle...

[9W Monighan]

Dan, I was just up at Bob's shop this morning. You know the guy with the white hat and Thew steam shovel, I was telling him about your Dozer project. He has a project going on now restoring a early 20's Insley half swing backhoe. It sort of resembles his Byer's Bearcat at our show grounds. That machine would make a nice model project for somebody.

[dirtpusher9]

Dan you are the man, on the detail thing. I made the door latches but didn't make them work, course my doors don't open neither. Nice work, won't be long now.

[D8R]

Thanks for comments, sorry guys, you have to wait some time before machine can run. Sometimes when looking at the model I think it looks almost done but I know there´s still some major parts to do before first test run. I have been building this for last 8 years and to be honest, speed is higher now (thanks to the forums).
Yes Steve, I have met Bob 2 times when visiting the show, would love to go back there in august, always a lot of nice machinery and of course to see the 9W in action. As said before, have some thoughts about a drag line as next model, we´ll see.

Details, details
Well, it was not planned but I like it, added some more today, especially happy with the anti-skid (?) pattern. This part was laser cut to see if it was possible to do with acceptable result. I think it did so now I have to draw all the rest of those plates. The big ones just out side enginer doors have 501 holes each!! This could never be duplicated any other way than with laser. Tried to make the protective mesh below this plate with piano-wire (sorry, don´t know if this is the right word) and braze the parts together but it didn´t work. Have to do them in some other softer material.

Have made all covers for lamps (total 8). Lamps will be made from plexi with 10mm LED. Should be nice to have the lamps CNC cut to original shape, have made drawing but looking for someone to mill them. Some bolts will be exchanged to right look when I get them.

Together with some of the detail parts I finaly got the servo holders. Here the plate that will hold all servos for blade and ripper/scraper control. If will be bended, pics will come when mounted.

The valves for tracks will be covered by interior in cab. Here´s first test mount.

After all servos has been test mounted I will break down model to sand blast chassis and some other parts.
I´m not happy the way the cab roof was done, the original has a slight curve between side and roof. Cab was sandblasted today to braze new corners inside cab and then I will sand down outside to get correct profile.
From now I will stop adding details, (will add a nice details tomorrow but it is not assebled yet), need to make all bigger parts finished first.

When I made the track frames I did not think twice. The tubing that will keep tracks tighten was made from normal steel. That will not work when I start running the model, there will be rust and the gaskets will be destroyed. Now I´m looking for a stainless tubing to replace the old one.
Dan

[pugs]

Looking great!

Could you just get your steel tubes chrome plated?

[Tamiya Cowboy]

Dan your craftsmanship is outstanding all the detail is so great to see and to see the detail functional is amazing! I have said it before but you are a craftsman in every since of the word.. Cant wait to see more.

[D8R]

RC farmer,cowboy, Pugs and all other, thanks!
About the tubing, have had thoughts about crome plate it before, but couldn´t remember how I put those parts together. When you mentioned it I had to look into if it could be possible. Did take the machine apart tonight (will go sandblasting this week) and could see that there´s a possibility to break the tubing from front wheel assembly. It´s only spotwelded fron inside

Not so good weldings, this was done some years ago and among the first parts that I tried to weld, have got a bit better now. Will try drill out those 4 weld spots next weekend. Did try to find some stainless tubes with 55mm in diameter but this is not available.

This is what the frame looks like when everything is taken away (oops, need to klean those work benches )

Dan

[doodlebug]

Hey Dan, is 55 mm a common size from supplier's? Have you considered using chrome plated hydraulic cylinder rod? Just a thought, I don't know what's available across the "pond''. Later, Neil#2 aka doodlebug.

[RCLogger]

Very nice Dan
Every time I checkout this thread I can't believe this is a model. You are doing a great job.

greg

[D8R]

Neil, it looks like 55mm is a very odd size (but that also the scale I´m building in). Can not use a hyd rod, need to have a tubing because there will be some springs inside to keep tracks tightened.
Greg, thanks, you are doing a very nice model to.
Did sandblast frame (made from 8mm steel plate) and some ripper parts today, and bracket to hold drawbar for scraper is done. Can´t wait to get the frame painted, it´s much more fun to work with with paint and easier to keep clean when installing hydraulics. Have had problems with paint quality (chipping), will get answer tomorrow what´s wrong. Will end up painting with 2 comp paint to get a durable surface.

The other day I talked about one small detail, had that one put together and cleaned, here it is, the oil filter (on the real one) done from 5 laser cut pieces and 8pcs 1,4mm bolts brazed.

[9W Monighan]

Are you using acid etch primer? That would bite into the metal. On my 1:1 equipment I have used acid etch on sheet metal parts and on the big parts I go with the yellow primer Caterpillar offers. Cat primer goes on nice and builds up well and it's cheap.

[D8R]

Steve, will go with 2C paint, this is more complex to deal with, mostely because I will have to paint small batches of parts, but result should be good.

Good and bad news
The good one is that I got the tubing of front track frame, will do new tubing in 55mm in steel that will be cromed and removable.
The bad part is that the cab got destroyed today, tried to get roof straight but ended up worse than before. Will probably do a new one, this time in 1 mm steel (old one is 0,7mm), was never happy with the thin sheet on the old. 1mm will be more solid and easier to work with.
Dan

[D8R]

Photobucket up running again so latest update.
Got servo mounted to valves with test linkage, right now trying to get them working the way the real machine do. Using the v-tail mixer/function to combine the 2 servos in command of hydraulic motor valves. The model will be able to turn on spot like the big ones (having differential steering).

Here´s the blade and ripper valves with servos, I´m planning using RC right stick for both of those functions, a seperate channel switching functions.
By the way, any suggestion if servo should be mounted with or without rubber dampners. Looks like they are flexing a little bit because of rubber.


As said before, I was very satisfied with the result of simulating the anti skid pattern by laser cutting. Here´s a paper template from computer, will get the real ones on monday

The hub sides got the small cover done


Dan

[tc1cat]

Only 1 word to describe this build,.................WOW!! The detailing just gets better and better.

Lynn

[pugs]

Truly amazing build. I only hope to one day build something similar.

[Heavy Metal]

This thing is just awesome Dan. Outstanding workmanship. Keep up the good work. Joe

[9W Monighan]

That diamond tread plate looks interesting.

[Lil Giants]

Fabulous craftsmanship Dan.

I would suggest leaving the rubber grommets in place with the servos as the gas engine may create some vibration within the model, which could cause some servo glitching. If the servos do glitch at all anyway, perhaps loosening the servo mounting bolts somewhat would help also... figuring out glitch within a model can be very time consuming & frustrating, here's hoping you have none of that.

[Stuff]

wow!!

[Toni]

Nice work Dan...
You still inspires me as you did with your loder in "killarnas kallender" back in the 70`s
The servos to the valves,,how accurate does them center from end to end under load??
and how mutch resistance is the servo working against?
My home made valves is kind of sluggish, need to solve that i guess..