Euclid R18 - Page 6

cyanide · #**101** 06-12-2012, 12:50 AM

wow, amazing build man! (The fishing boat pics are cool too)

I love how you made the battery look like a motor too.

Very cool.

RCKiwi · #**102** 06-12-2012, 08:34 PM

^^^ what he said! Nice-I actually had to have a second take on it after skim reading the posts. That works very well indeed! Love the diff work to - you're got a good eye.
Glenn

RCP57 · #**103** 06-12-2012, 11:34 PM

Thanks guys, it really means a lot to hear the compliments.
I cheated a little by using wood for the blower and exhaust manifold but it was A LOT easier to do it that way than out of aluminum. I don't have the necessary skills to machine parts like that yet... if ever! I would have liked to use a different motor on the belt drive so that it had more power at lower rpm but I only had a couple in my junk to choose from. With 1.5v the speed is good but it won't always turn it from a stop. With 6v it spins fast enough to throw a belt(rubber band) and looks rediculous not to mention that it wouldn't be long and the aluminum pulleys running on aluminum shafts would gall up even with oil on them. At that speed it throws oil everywhere!

Maybe it really is a detroit under there?

RCP57 · #**104** 06-26-2013, 06:18 PM

I've been tinkering with this on and off and today I was finally able to finish up under the hood. I used an old forward only esc to drive the fan motor but it is causing problems with my main drive esc. It works as normal with the under hood stuff turned off but after a short period of time if you have it on then the trucks esc goes into protection and won't come back on until you switch it all off and then back on. The under hood esc, steering and dump all work fine no matter what. I did have some problems initially with the little motor under the hood effecting the servos but I wrapped their leads through one of those ferrite rings and now it's fine. I'm guessing this motor is causing the issue but I don't know how to fix it. I'm not sure why it doesn't effect the esc right away and the amount of time it takes to screw up changes with each run. Maybe you electronic guru's out there can give some feedback?

I should mention that the forward only esc is a Novak Arrow and the other is a Proboat...

http://youtu.be/E6S_KtdWziQ

ngward79 · #**105** 06-26-2013, 11:59 PM

You may need an external BEC . I learn this from my crawler experience having high torque steering servo's and the internal BEC in the ESC not being strong enough for it. With the added extra draw from the motor and ESC to run the belts it could drop into a low voltage protection for your drive motor and ESC. And with any additional electrical add-on ( including steering servo etc...) can cause voltage drop. Anyway , just put a Castle Creations BEC between the original ESC and your steering servo or belt ESC and all should be well, they only cost $20 http://holmeshobbies.com/Castle-BEC.html

RCP57 · #**106** 06-27-2013, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ngward79

You may need an external BEC . I learn this from my crawler experience having high torque steering servo's and the internal BEC in the ESC not being strong enough for it. With the added extra draw from the motor and ESC to run the belts it could drop into a low voltage protection for your drive motor and ESC. And with any additional electrical add-on ( including steering servo etc...) can cause voltage drop. Anyway , just put a Castle Creations BEC between the original ESC and your steering servo or belt ESC and all should be well, they only cost $20 http://holmeshobbies.com/Castle-BEC.html

I have a couple BEC's kickin around so I'll give that a try and see if it helps.

ngward79 · #**107** 06-27-2013, 09:29 AM

Cool , hopefully that works for you . Let us know.

RCP57 · #**108** 07-01-2013, 09:19 AM

I ended up removing the red wire on the Arrow esc and that seemed to help. I'm not entirely sure that it fixed the problem but it seemed like it might have.

Had some decals made for this too, so here's what it looks like...I also picked up a new bench/cabinet...

ap40rocktruck · #**109** 07-08-2013, 05:11 PM

Got to love "Green" iron! another fascinating build and on point with the details.

Ap40

pigeonfarmboy · #**110** 07-08-2013, 05:53 PM

I like that bench! Who makes that?

pigeonfarmboy · #**111** 07-08-2013, 05:54 PM

The truck is nice too I suppose......

RCP57 · #**112** 07-08-2013, 11:05 PM

Thanks Ap40.

The bench is from Costco(I forget the make but can look). They had them after xmas but sold out really fast. When I seen that they had them again I had to get one before they were gone. It was $400 before taxes($30 more than the last time they had them).

RCP57 · #**113** 07-11-2013, 11:05 PM

The Euclid got some mirrors today! How long do you think they will last?lol

Reg

RCP57 · #**114** 01-16-2015, 03:36 PM

I put together a little video showing all the build photos from this one. Since building this truck my selection of tooling has improved quite a bit. Looking at the pictures makes me appreciate that but also miss the extra space in my shop!

http://youtu.be/yIONwq22f8E

sparkycuda · #**115** 01-19-2015, 10:02 AM

Reg, I enjoyed the pictorial review. Had forgotten about some of the details and was re-fascinated to see them. Such a neat project and excellent workmanship!

Ken

RCP57 · #**116** 01-22-2015, 10:01 AM

Thanks Ken, I'm not sure if I love this truck or hate it? I know I built Jackfish first but this truck pretty much started a giant snowball effect of shop machinery and RC equipment in our garage.....

Any progress on the Payhauler?

sparkycuda · #**117** 01-22-2015, 10:34 AM

Payhauler progress? Yes, but very slow. Had to learn that correct choice of aluminum alloy for bed is critical. 6061 does not like sharp bends, especially when soldered (300-degree) - cracks in the bends & the base metal. Have to redo with 5052-H32 which is recommended for metal forming. The lower bed rails & cross members are complete, along with rear pivots. Just have to start over with bed bending.

Ken

littleiron · #**118** 01-22-2015, 03:00 PM

Love that Euclid. There is one in Twisp belongs to Lloyd Logging not sure of the year it's still being used occasionally. Have to stop and check it out sometime. you sure was right this stuff is addictive. Guess I knew that from scale rc plane days. technology sure has advanced tho I'm lost about half the time Maybe I can learn.

RCP57 · #**119** 01-25-2015, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by littleiron

Love that Euclid. There is one in Twisp belongs to Lloyd Logging not sure of the year it's still being used occasionally. Have to stop and check it out sometime. you sure was right this stuff is addictive. Guess I knew that from scale rc plane days. technology sure has advanced tho I'm lost about half the time Maybe I can learn.

If you stop by to check it out please take some pictures! I am a big fan of Hi-Lite green!

I had the old truck and my excavator out this afternoon for a few minutes. I first had to fix a drive motor in the Volvo that I broke months ago. The part has been sitting in the cupboard for quite some time but I hadn't got around to swapping it out. Anyway, I only hauled a few loads but it was fun to step away from the small scale stuff for a bit.

Videos to follow eventually...

Cooper · #**120** 01-25-2015, 08:48 PM

Dang reg!!! It really is a work of art!! And the best part of these is we get to play with them!! I started backpedaling and just thought I would add to your motor problem. I found out if those ferrite rings (chokes) don't fix any interference with motor/servos/radio and you are using a brushed motor in any of this stuff just solder a capacitor from neg to pos motor terminals. I forget what muf's but all it does is eliminate a lot of the electrical noise from a dc brushed motor wreaking havoc on rx stuff. Had same problem in my springer tug boat, looked up what to use and completely eliminated twitches and esc problems.

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