broken bits

[ihbuilder]

Originally Posted by grumpygrady

sorry just saw that the tap was in steel
thats what i get for not reaDING EACH POST UNTILL THE END OF THE THREAD LOL

no you are right , I'm always braking taps in aluminum . mainly 2-56 . I sorta hijacked when trying to help Clyde with a broken drill bit in steel . this getting broken taps out of aluminum is a big help .

[Espeefan]

Hi guys. Regarding what oil we all use when tapping smaller holes in aluminum, I've been having really good luck, so far, with Rigid's Nu-Clear thread cutting oil. I've been tapping a lot of 3mm and 2mm holes lately, into aluminum and stainless steel, but and haven't broken or plugged up any of my taps yet. Previous to using the Rigid oil, I tried a few different brands and noticed the smaller taps would plug up a lot sooner and easier in aluminum. I pretty much swear by the Rigid Nu-Clear oil now and will probably stick to it from here on out.

[td9clyde]

yep i now have a tap broken off in the side frame lol and yes it is a 4/40 lol 45 holes done and the last 3 to go and it snaps lol i am tryin to figure out a way to do this when i get them all tapped out and all the other caps on and bolted down i might even just weld that cap on lol

[Espeefan]

It figures that you would break a tap on the last couple holes, rather then the first few! If you can't get that tap out, just cut the material away from around the tap, and section it. You can always weld up the oversized hole, replace an entire section of metal, (like a small square) grind it flat, and drill a new hole. That's the beauty of metal working. If you take to much off, or drill to big of a hole, you can almost always fix it up again with a welder.

[td9clyde]

yea thats what i was thinkin i would have to do lol

[td9clyde]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

no you are right , I'm always braking taps in aluminum . mainly 2-56 . I sorta hijacked when trying to help Clyde with a broken drill bit in steel . this getting broken taps out of aluminum is a big help .

It's all good we all or at least both of us learned something lol

[Izzy]

for threading or even cutting soft copper - I was told to use "crisco"

For years they were using animal fats instead of oil based lubricants....

[Bodyman]

ihbuilder.
regarding the tap removal tool.the smallest my set goes to is 3mm so it most likely
wont work.
steve

[Bodyman]

i found this site. it has a tap stand. suppose to help keep taps straight
and keep from breaking. i bought one.when i get it ill let you know how it works.
www.LittleMachineShop.com

[pugs]

Another option is a tapping block. holes sized to just allow taps to slip through, faces are perpendicular to the holes thus holding the taps straight.

This was one of the many tools I had to build back in machine tool school. This one is sized up to 1/2" taps, could easily build a smaller one for the little stuff. I had to make it on a jig borer but I think if you were careful and took your time you could do it on a regular mill as well.

Was made from O-1 and hardened IIRC, but for the small taps you guys are using a softer steel would probably work fine

[Izzy]

for all those novice types - always use a tap handle - and as a "T" handle, not an "L" unless you have to (tight spot) - using a common wrench will almost always cause trouble......

[Lil Giants]

I put my 3mm tap in a 7.2v reversable cordless drill, keep the tapp well lubed and clean the tap constantly with a brass brush. Barely pulling the trigger, when it stalls, back it out, clean/relube the tapp, blow out the hole with pressurized air and go again. Haven't broke a tap yet, wore a few of them though.

That tap guide you show Jeff looks to be the cats meow, very simple & effective.

[pugs]

The tap guide works great with a cordless drill. Just have to watch out for taps that have shanks larger than the thread portion. I should really build a smaller thinner tap guide for the little taps.