Cat 777D Mining Truck - Page 4

SmallHaul · #61 10-19-2010, 07:03 PM

Great job on the tires.

dirtpusher9 · #62 10-19-2010, 08:05 PM

Tom, those tires look like you just got a delivery from GoodYear. They look good on the rims also. Have you started on any of the rest of the truck yet?

modelman · #63 10-19-2010, 08:36 PM

Thanks a lot guys-joe-it is gonna be slow for awhile. I am trying to gather up a lot of the parts and pieces. I am having to use mail order for everything and it is TERRIBLE!!(slow,slow,slow). A few months ago I was ordering stuff online with a credit card and someone jacked my card info online and lightened my bank account by several hundred$$$

before I realized what was going on so I am thru with credit cards. Lesson learned. It's a sad old world we live in now but I guess the Internet and the thieves are here to stay.

td9clyde · #64 10-19-2010, 08:50 PM

thats sad when someone takes your info and drains your stuff there is a way to do this 2 accounts one for ordering things and make shure there is just enough to cover the charges and the other is a safe account that you don't use for purchasing items .................and i really like those tires you will have one nice truck very cool keep up the great work

ihbuilder · #65 10-21-2010, 09:52 PM

Tom , the tires look great same with the rims . ? , Did you order from smooth on directly or a independent dealer ?

IHSteve

modelman · #66 10-21-2010, 09:59 PM

IHsteve-thanks a lot-I used this place because it was closer to me-
http://www.reynoldsam.com/

ihbuilder · #67 10-22-2010, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by modelman

IHsteve-thanks a lot-I used this place because it was closer to me-
http://www.reynoldsam.com/

thanks tom , I also got 1 close to me , I was just wondering I f you dealt directly with them . but I'll check around for the best $

IHSteve

modelman · #68 11-09-2010, 12:09 PM

Well, it seems like gearmotors to fit this truck are made from the rare material
"unobtainium". I only found one that would work and is a little to fast but I think it will do. It is to long so I had to get creative with the rear wheels but I have it worked out. This is the complete set-

The gearmotor extends all the way thru the inner wheel-

Here is rear wheels assembled-

I have more holes to drill and tap and I have to make a hub cover. I am using 2-56 screws. I tried the 0-80 screws but could not tap the holes. Broken taps,stripped holes, ruined wheel-disaster! But the 2-56 size is working good.

9W Monighan · #69 11-09-2010, 12:21 PM

Glad to see you're making some progress. What RPM are the motors?

pugs · #70 11-09-2010, 12:41 PM

For the small holes in aluminum you should be able to use forming taps, which are much stronger. Just remember that they require a slightly larger tap drill to work. I have hand tapped some 0-80's before with them and it is quite easy to get very nice threads.

modelman · #71 11-09-2010, 12:59 PM

Steve-I have had some problems working this out. Hard to get my brain in gear. The motors are rated at 65-RPM@12V so I will have to adjust voltage. I think I can use 45-50 RPM so maybe 7.2V? I haven't got that far yet. Rolling the wheel on the table works out to 50 RPM but I will have to get it actually running to tell for sure. I had-1-more picture but for some reason it will not load. Now that the width is worked out I can start the chassis.

sparkycuda · #72 11-09-2010, 02:20 PM

Your tires turned out just great! Wheels and wheel motor assemblies should save you a lot of space in place of a diff, driveshaft and single motor. This truck will look great next to your shovel.

Ken

modelman · #73 11-09-2010, 04:40 PM

sparkycuda-thanks and you are right. The motors in the wheels save a lot of space and that is very important on this build. Pugs-I don't know what a forming tap is

. I used new hss taper-bottom taps. My chart does not go smaller than 2-56. What size drill bit do you use with 0-80 taps? I used a #60.

pugs · #74 11-09-2010, 06:24 PM

A form tap has no flutes or cutting edges. It creates the threads by displacing the metal into the shape (basically makes a thread that is strong like a forging). Because it displaces it requires a slightly larger tap drill. Since it has no flutes (some have a reliefe for fluid to escape blind holes), it is a much stronger body tap which is a great thing in the really small stuff.

Balax makes some great form taps
http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CG...PMPXNO=1907339

PM me your addy and I'll send you a small tap drill chart that goes down to 0-80 and shows form tap drills. One of the tooling places I buy from sends a chart with every order, I have a few around the shop, could spare one.

Tap drill for a cut type tap 0-80 is listed as 3/64 which is .0469", the #60 is .0400" so you're right in there. If it were a forming tap it would need to be drilled with a #54 which is .0550" And form taps a a bit more particular about using the proper size tap drill due to the way they work.

9W Monighan · #75 11-09-2010, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by modelman

sparkycuda-thanks and you are right. The motors in the wheels save a lot of space and that is very important on this build. Pugs-I don't know what a forming tap is

. I used new hss taper-bottom taps. My chart does not go smaller than 2-56. What size drill bit do you use with 0-80 taps? I used a #60.

Tom, On my 0-80 adventures I started using a #56 (.0465") drill but broke taps occasionally but when I got the correct size: 3/64" (.0469") that did the trick the extra .0004" made a difference in steel. I also took the Dewalt drill and ran the 3/64 drill into the holes to possibly remove a tiny bit of the burr or what ever was on the holes after drilling in the mill. On your aluminum it may be tricky to not get the tap stuck. I use Cool Tool on steel and Alumatap on Aluminum for fluid. Brass I tap dry. Are those holes blind? That makes a bigger challenge to be able to get the chips out. You'll have to turn some then back out several times to keep chips from packing in the bottom.

pugs · #76 11-09-2010, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9W Monighan

Are those holes blind? That makes a bigger challenge to be able to get the chips out. You'll have to turn some then back out several times to keep chips from packing in the bottom.

Yet another advantage of form taps.....no chips.

They work good in steel too, I just don't usually have steel to tap.

modelman · #77 11-09-2010, 07:40 PM

Thanks for all your help guys. Sounds like my small drill bit is one problem. 0-80 screws are new territory for me. Steve the holes go all the way thru and I am using "Anchorlube G-771" cutting fluid and it works great for drilling. Is it wrong for tapping? Also the tap I broke did get stuck. It wouldn't turn either way so I knew I was in trouble.

tracksntreadslou · #78 11-10-2010, 10:16 PM

Hey tom motors of choice look pretty good...What rpm are you going with and what kind of torqure ..Hey guys thanks for the tips on taps ...very usefull info

RCTech9 · #79 11-10-2010, 10:57 PM

Looks Good!!!

grumpygrady · #80 11-11-2010, 12:21 AM

be very glad they did it with your credit card
you can get every penny back when you call your bank
can't do that with checks or cash
they got my wife and i last year for almost a grand and it was back in our bank in less than a week '
and if you don't want anything just cancel the payment no fighting to get your money back

Quote:

Originally Posted by modelman

Thanks a lot guys-joe-it is gonna be slow for awhile. I am trying to gather up a lot of the parts and pieces. I am having to use mail order for everything and it is TERRIBLE!!(slow,slow,slow). A few months ago I was ordering stuff online with a credit card and someone jacked my card info online and lightened my bank account by several hundred$$$

before I realized what was going on so I am thru with credit cards. Lesson learned. It's a sad old world we live in now but I guess the Internet and the thieves are here to stay.

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