John Deere 9 Series Tracked Tractor with Planetary Steering

[cooker2003]

Hi guys,

Inspired by our on-farm 9510RT, I've begun designing a 1/16 scale remote control 9RT. I really wanted to do it the "right" way with real double differential/planetary steering & it is even better than I anticipated. Steering control is very precise.

Features so far:
- True double planetary steering
- Continuous rotation GoBilda Speed servo for precise steering control
- Brushless sensored 540 1800Kv motor for unbelievable torque & smooth control
- All metal Actobotics gears & shafts
- Fully designed and 3D printed, less the hood, cab, and tracks.

Tractor is currently in 9300T form, but I'm working on the components to create a newer 9RT.

I have a sound module on the way also.

The 2700 Ripper has a servo to control up/down movements. I'm hoping to replicate a decent sized Deere 2660VT variable intensite tillage tool to go behind the tractor.

Quick progress video here: https://youtu.be/CkZ-da93lEI



Solidworks design of the differential steering and drive gears:


Some mini-lathe work to create adapters for the planetary sun gear. I found these planetaries on eBay as part of a brushless gear reduction motor.


Early design of the small planetary assemblies, modified to accept a ring gear for the steering.


All parts use M3 fasteners and heat-set inserts. Sealed ball bearings throughout.


Since the base 9300T that I sourced the original cab, hood, and tracks from hasn't been made in 20+ years, I had to soften the tracks in a mixture of boiling water and wintergreen oil. Worked very well!


Final iteration of the track frame assembly. Has functional track tensioner & walking beam articulation.



Cheers!
Dave

[jerry56]

Wow just watched the video your steering is super smooth. What sound board are you going to use.

[cooker2003]

Thanks Jerry. I should grab a quick video showing the steering a bit better.

I have a Sense Innovations ESS One on the way. I'm open to suggestions, though. Trying to fit it in might be the bigger challenge. The 9RT series tractors offer more room under the hood and in the cab.

[egronvold]

Cool project, and so unique

[jerry56]

Same here I'm trying to decide on a sound module for my builds.. obviously size and cost are a big factor....

[skeeter]

For space saving, I liek the Servonaut sound units. They are a bit pricier than other options. With this said, their small footprint makes the cost worth it, to me.

[frizzen]

Very cool project!

Don't think i'd ever heard of softening rubber by boiling wintergreen oil into it.

[cooker2003]

Working on the conversion to RT series currently & thought I'd share my Solidworks mockup so far. Drawing up the hood was quite tedious as I've never really drawn up many curved/non-planar objects. Learned a lot! The fuel tanks are really testing my patience with the complex design and ribs, etc. I wouldn't have any hair left if I tried to get it exact, so we'll go with "close enough".

I have a 9560R cab that I found, so it's just a matter of making the lower cab/mounts & fuel tanks now.

The hood printed up nicely without any supports and needs minimal touch up, so that's a positive. Planning to go with magnetic latching for easy hood removal.



I'll have to grab some better photos of the hood.

[Lil Giants]

Cool Works man!

Trying to figure out - understand how you make it steer ...electro magnetics?

How much static weight do you think it could pull without driveline damage?

[cooker2003]

I've pulled a few bricks around and a home made beet harvester so far and it takes it no sweat. My spur gear and hub are plastic and hub is only press fit onto the shaft. All other driveline components are metal, so it should stand up to some abuse. Which reminds me - I should pull the planetaries apart again and check grease. What do you guys use for heavy grease in these things? I just used some regular old John Deere grease from the farm, but its actually pretty light stuff. I've heard there is some heavy weight grease folks use for differentials?

The limiting factor so far has been traction. I need more weight. New drive wheels will have heavy hex nuts embedded for more weight. I thought about redoing the frame and having it CNC cut from aluminum to add some weight. We will see. My RT components are coming along great. Really excited for this project to be complete.

Where is a good place to source headlights, taillights?

[Lil Giants]

I don't do anything with lights or sound myself, less clutter inside the better for me ..but here's one site to look at in the USA for lighting.

https://store.rc4wd.com/LED-and-Ligh...its_c_192.html

[jerry56]

If you just want to do headlight and taillights I use this switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and these 3mm lights they come with resistors
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XFLX13...ing=UTF8&psc=1
or these 5mm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But you need to buy resistors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it's pretty simple to wire them up once you get used to it... or look here.
https://rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=441
We can help you thru it... this way you can customize your lighting..

[cooker2003]

This is a bit of a tease, since I'm reworking my 3D printed hood, but it shows that we're getting close!

Shown here with a 9570RX hood installed (how much easier/quicker would it be just to put some new decals on a 9R hood!):


Side by side with my Gen 1 hood and brother 9570RX:


New Gen 2 hood printing tonight:

[ddmckee54]

For weight in your drive wheels, instead of the hex nuts use shot for shot gun shells. That's what I used to add some weight to the wheels for my Manitou 2150. (It's a WIP.)

I tried a couple of the local sporting goods dealers and even Cabella's, but the smallest they had was #8 shot I think. Anyway, it was freaking huge for model work. I went on-line and ordered some shot for snake-loads from a re-loading supplier. That crap is tiny, from next to nothing up to about 1.5mm max diameter. I think the minimum I could order was about 15 pounds which sounds like a lot, but it's not that big of a bag.

Don

[cooker2003]

Hood turned out great. Hot off the printer & I don't think I'm going to spend any more time on the hood design as it's pretty darn close! Going to get this one sanded, prepped, and painted.



Hooked up my Sense Innovations ESS One (that I picked up off eBaya while back), unfortunately they didn't send me the S Link adapter, so I can't change the sound. Found them for $25, but at that point I might as well buy another new one that comes with the adapter. The sound does add another dimension, which is pretty cool.

[cooker2003]

More progress today. First coat of paint on the new hood and a couple other parts.

Action: https://youtu.be/3mVQ_Qlcyus

[jerry56]

**** what a fantastic job on that hood....I'm still studying "Tinkercad for dummies"

[cooker2003]

Originally Posted by jerry56

**** what a fantastic job on that hood....I'm still studying "Tinkercad for dummies"

Not familiar with TinkerCAD. All Solidworks here. Been using it a little over the last 10 years. Once I got my 3D printer, projects came to life a little quicker and my design skills improved as well. Plenty of tutorials and YouTube videos.

[jerry56]

LOL me either...but working on it... it's a free online CAD program.

[dremu]

This is one of those projects that at once makes me happy to look at, and very sad as I don't have the time or patience to pull off myself =))

I use OpenSCAD for my printing, I like coding, but it's difficult to describe rounded, curved, non-primitive geometric objects. I can churn out structural stuff frame pieces and even oddly-shaped 2D pieces, but trying to do that hood, man, that makes my head hurt.

That there is a thing of beauty. Hats off to your CAD skills.