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Construction Equipment If it digs, pushes, hauls dirt "off road" post it here. |
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#41
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
I braised the broken spotwelds, but it was a little tweaked. I can work around that.
I got the slew gear mounted on truck, got my 3 servo mount drilled up and ready, tried to tighten and stripped threads instead of pulling flush, made hardwear bigger, remounted lower. got slew servo mounted, realized 3 servo mount was now in interference, pulled it all back out. Trimmed top ear off top servo and mount so it fit where i originally wanted before i redrilled. Made mount plate for slew servo 0.125 between bottom and servo. Grabbed a 1/2" chrome hole plug like the truck has for headlights, center drilled it for an LED, mounted that in crane cab. A bruder operator looked too professional for me learning how to run this, so i found someone more my speed. Not sure if i'm going to like the white string, or the green fishing line better. Thoughts? I've been trying to keep from chevy-ing this too badly. But there's always the fun part here's what i've got to work with here... but that's sae, these are metric, that's phillips. This is my first model without an esc. Do you run a bec, or an rx pack, or full stuck pack, or? Last edited by frizzen; 02-09-2017 at 04:23 AM. |
#42
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Nice, coming right Along.
I can't remember exactly how I'm running mine. Right from a three cell lipo I think, I'll check and let you know. I used a black marker to dye the string black. You want me to make you a little drum for the drag rope at the cab? The wide one that goes on the boom pivot pin. Jim |
#43
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Nice build. Just an idea for the white strings. Put them in cup of coffee a few days and they should get some patina.
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#44
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Bo, nice idea on the white string. I might try that. Frizz, if you try it, make sure it doesn't make the string get stiff, you want it to be pretty soft and flexible.
Jim |
#45
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Quote:
Thanks Jim. The line get stiff when it dries. Because some grain or sediment of coffee. As son as you rub it a little it's fine and smooth and works great. I did this on my Lego Crane. But when they made Photos of the crane for Posters i had to change string to white again........ugh. The sponsor told me white strings would look better on the picture. |
#46
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
The hoist and boom lines in those pics are nylon inner strands of 550 paracord mil-c-5040h t3. Should be good for 70 lbs.
The crowd line is green spiderwire fishing line, they also have a brown. Should be good for 50-60 lbs. The counterweight lid and cab roof are the color i'm planning when finished. I was trying to decide what size looked better, i should be able to dye the white with something like RIT. Yeah, i'm sure you could do a nicer looking drag drum than i'm set up to make so far. What do you use for the calming lines with your clamshell? |
#47
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Frizz,
I think all my lines are made from mini blind pull cord from the sewing store EXCEPT the calming lines, those are made of a heavy black sewing thread. Remember, you want all lines to be flexible. They need to wrap around the drums easily so when they do NOT have tension that they won't try to bird nest. I'll make that little drag drum for you this week. Jim |
#48
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Little more progress to share now that i've got better pics... still need to go pick up more hardware again.
Swing gear mounting, i used 3mm hardwear mounted from below with slightly oversize holes so i can center gear zero if needed with house on. It took more than a little bit of math and dial caliper time to get the hole layout. Find centers on slew gear diagonal screw holes, divide that. Take pivot post OD, divide that. Take 1/2 pivot, subtract from to 1/2 diagonal, mark circle. Set gear on marks, check circle under screw holes. Locate screw holes on circle, mark, recheck, dimple, drill, dry fit. --- Example math 1.300" diagonal Align t-rex helicopter gear (0.650) Nylint Michigan 0.250" post (0.125) 0.650 - 0.125 = 0.525" from edge of post to ring mounts Doepke Unit 0.186" hole (0.093) 0.650 - 0.093 = 0.557" from edge of hole to ring mounts Then verify those marks are viewable through all the slew ring mount holes, if not you messed up somewhere. --- Swing servo under house. Installed servo in a 0.125" aluminum plate to get spacing far enough below house support ring to get my pinion into the fixed gear. Clearanced the servo case around swing gear, bigger spur would have helped. 4mm hardwear, installed from the top so i can adjust gear mesh with cab on. Cable drum mount and off side support rack. Support pins are ball ends from turnbuckles, 3mm thread that was spares from my 1/16 everest rock crawler dumptruck. Racks mount into the window surround with 4mm hardwear. Top servo, top forward mount ear removed for clearance Last edited by frizzen; 10-08-2022 at 12:12 PM. Reason: Added math while i marked on a Doepke |
#49
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Looking good! How did you do the boom extension?
I still plan on sending you a drag rope drum... Jim |
#50
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
The boom extension is just aluminum stock. 2 side plates, 2 plates for top bottom, with 4 pieces of 1/4" angle. 2 screws hold each angle to each side. After figuring out a pattern, I screwed matching plates together through waste areas, drilled corners and cutouts, then stuck a metal blade on my scroll saw and play connect the dots. Little file work to clean up It seems strong enough with just the top plate, but i wouldn't want to side load it too much.
I used 1/8" steel rods for the attach pins, small o-rings to retain pins so you can quickly take it on / off without fumbling with E-clips. (Planning ahead incase i get the chassis powered, since that's a LOT of boom to plan for swing ahead of the steering axles.) No worries, i've trying to figure out something nice enough to send your way. |
#51
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Amber beacons mean one thing... SAFETY THIRD
Radioshack, neon panel mount warning light. Got the rack mounts in, reeved the machine with paracord guts. It seems to spool pretty well, 1 drum at a time since i'm waiting on my radio. Couple more brackets, and it should be time to start knocking rust off and make it look not as bad |
#52
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Oh god, my eyes!!!
May the people at Rustoleum experience pinapple insertions from the devil for eternity, for using 'spray at any angle' impossible to clear nozzles on their rattle bombs. Apparently i wanted this to sag and look like 'poop' because i didn't junk the entire can after doing 2 test piece? What's a scale "20 foot paint job" work out to? Rc4wd warn hook. I wanted a hook with a safety gate so i can drop the bucket and play crane without Mr OSHA shaking my monkey-tree. I'm very happy with this. 1/10 crawler winch hook, looks about right for this 1/16-ish 24 ton crane. Flashy light circuit is built and turns on/off with model power. Crane house headlight i wimped out and is just switched instead of remote operable. I may need to do a horn, or servo an operator.
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"? It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time... Last edited by frizzen; 03-30-2017 at 10:58 AM. |
#53
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
That was boring, let's do better.
And
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"? It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time... |
#54
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Frizz,
I got a free slot and thought I'd make that drag rope pulley for you. I'll make it just like mine unless you have another idea. Jim |
#55
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Frizz,
I'll send this out along with two brass spacers. You might need to file the spacers down lengthwise to get a good fit on your boom pivot. I left them a tiny bit long on purpose. Jim |
#56
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
On the white string I used brown or black shoe dye on a large scale railroad crane I built
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#57
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Ya, that would probably work good! I think I used a sharpie marker which is sort of a pain to do...
Jim |
#58
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
That is beautiful. Thank you again! This build owes so much to you jim.
Yeah mike, thats a good idea. I was thinking about either grey, black, or brown next time i tear it apart. I ran this at the Lebanon IN show and learned some things in crumb rubber: - Draglines just don't work when material is above them, it falls out. built a work platform. - My temp bucket is too light, and badly designed. - I need to make a set of wire fairleads for hoist and crowd drums. - I need to locktite the offside drum support balls.
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"? It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time... Last edited by frizzen; 07-19-2017 at 05:30 AM. |
#59
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
What's the hole for in the left side running board on yours?
Hmm, what's that way at the back, working the pile in the center? Jim is awesome! This new crowd line roller looks killer. Now i've got an idea for making a crowd roller fairlead i saw a video of on a big machine... Would you be interested in something like an aluminum boom extension, or house mounted boom sheeve risers, i've got extrusion for the height on mine, or i can go to 2.5"
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"? It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time... Last edited by frizzen; 04-29-2017 at 05:21 AM. |
#60
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Re: Nylint michigan crane conversion, hopefully
Ha, ya I saw the picture of your dragline sitting on the pile in the background. Oh ya, there he is!
Don't worry about parts for me, just help me get my truck rolling by answering all my questions and feeding me pictures! The hole in the running board is/was to adjust set screws in my tracks or maybe something I did on the new undercarriage but I don't remember for sure, I know you don't need one, cause I don't use it anymore! I think when I did my update on the crawler I moved the track tensioners to the outside and don't need access from the top now. Jim Last edited by Rvjimd; 04-29-2017 at 06:35 AM. |
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