[frizzen]

I make NO claims this is the best way to mod one. This is my way, with only what i had on hand, on a tight schedule. "Yay the forklift is here! I will not mod anything on it until after the meet, oh the steering died. Panic and upgrade it really fast!"

I pulled the stock steering gearbox out, hogged out the fender liners for tire clearance for more angle. I should have also trimmed the top steering retainer plate to get max angle. I matched servo horn length to the steering gear pin-fulcrum, made a J shape brass thing that pokes into the draglink. Draglink center hole was drilled to size for the brass J to take out the slop it would have had. I probably should put something like a fender liner around the servo and fwd side of fenders to help keep stuff out

Hoist&drive are stock, i just added escs. I took the power switch from one and hooked it up to my power switch on bottom. I pulled red wire out of rx plug on other so it's not on 2 bec. Both esc hook up parallel to the battery.

For Rack-Tilt this way, the body needs modified a little. i removed the U shape piece with the "rack cylinders" and dumped the springs. I cut slots in the rack cylinders, and drilled holes in the "rack tilt actuator rams", passed a rod through the actuators to be a crossbar. Make the rack cylinders silver or chrome. Found a place to stick a servo on the hoist/drive gearbox, made a linkage with a Z-bend and a loopy to hold the crossbar. I need to put a sleeve or something on the crossbar to keep the linkage from moving sideways. The body had some supports that i had to cut for clearance of my crossbar, study the pics, be sure to keep the parts that hold the U shape. Make sure crossbar isn't too long and binds on outer sides of body.

***added*** Thinking about how the Carson Linde forks work.... If i were smarter my rack tilt would probably be done with a continious rotation servo mounted vertically with a linkage running to the same style actuators. This way when moved it should just cycle rack fwd and back, and should hold location where ever stopped. My current setup is about vertical, until you push and hold rack one way. Or i could have put it on a Pot channel.
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Cram everything you can under the rx board. Make sure the escs aren't going to interfere with the steps in body. Stuff the extra wiring up under the seat when installing body. If you cut out part of battery compartment, take the door off to help see what binds as it closes.

Think it through, test fit often, don't do something you can't undo unless you're sure.

I think i mentioned cutting out the 3aa battery rack to hold a 4aa rx pack. I know it could take bigger mAh lipo than these nimh. It's got some runtime, but i'm not trying to make driving this a job.

I'm also going to put some lead in the chassis later. Won't go too crazy, it's only like 130 size motors with a 700mAh battery.