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#41
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Anyhow, back to what I was saying. This Polish hillbilly redneck can ONLY use 4 fingers to type with. I use 2 from each hand. The rest just seem to get in the way, & cause even more typo's then I already make.
On a positive note, When the printer ran out, & parts was incomplete this morning. it gave me a good reference for cleaning up the hex inserts in the other rims. So far, mess ups included.......between the front loader, & Mack conversion, I've got over 100 hours of 3D print time invested. ONLY about 65 is for the usable parts, & there's approximately 20-30 more hours left to go. ALL the parts for the front loader conversion are printed. Those, along with the Mack parts all need to go through the final clean ups before they are ready to use. I've been told that our workload should slow down at the end of this month, or shortly after the first of next month. I, for once am anxious for the slow down. I FINALLY have enough projects in the garage to keep my mind occupied, & stay busy for the long slow winter to come! On a separate note, the wildfires here in WA state are producing so much ash & smoke, eyes are itchy, & watery. When I awoke this morning to start the car it was lightly dusted with ash. Wish I had time to take pics.....Even if I did, it was dark out & not much would have showed up with my crappy camera phone. I did, however think to snap this pic today at work. This snap was taken this morning, 9-5-17 at around 8:15AM from the worksite in Des Moines WA, looking due east into the morning sun. There's so much smoky haze, that I was looking directly into the sun while this snap was taken ![]() |
#42
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#43
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Looks like a heck of a fire! I'd probably be asking around if they need help digging firebreaks.
Glad the parts are coming together. Stay safe up there.
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"? It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time... |
#44
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![]() ![]() I'm glad the parts are almost all printed as well. I know this winter I'll appreciate that I did them ahead of time, rather then waiting impatiently for them to get outta the printer. I'll be even more glad, once I have tinkered with it a bit more, & have a better grasp with CAD! ![]() |
#45
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D@M IT!
![]() ![]() ![]() I tinkered with the servo mounting system that will drive the D11 today. I WANTED to use the BLUE one, but it was too big to fit inside against the back wall of the dozer. ![]() http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redcat-Blue-...72.m2749.l2649 ![]() Instead, I used some that I had previously purchased from robotshop.com, OR was it ServoCity.com..........IDK, can't remember right now. ![]() That's a METAL gear Savox servo there. I had a few that were bad. The potentiometers went bad in them. they WOULDN'T move at all. I disassembled them, removed the pottent, & the motors still worked. Now I'll have to use a Sabertooth 2X5 to run them. that's alright, I got a few on hand here. I may also need to add another mount plate to those 2, to get the drive sprocket in the right position with the tracks. I used 2, & put them together with M3X8mm countersunk screws. ![]() ![]() ![]() Here's some pics of the latest company acquisition, an ERTL 1:16 log skidder. She's in rough shape now, & needs a bit of work from the 3D printer before she's ready for work. You know how them @sshats with the Department of Labor & Industries are, safety this, safer that. Personally I kind of like it WITHOUT the top! It fits right in around here, with our Polish hilbilly redneck equipment. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I'm thinking a 3D printed cab, 4 new tires, & rims too. The tires aren't that bad, but I don't think they'll be good once separated from the beat up, cracked, & broken rims that are on it now................... ![]() |
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I ALMOST
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Who dropped a tree across the skidders hood?
Skidder winch, still have any more broken servos? Make drum, mount to servo. Wrap fake drum with same cable you use, mount servo and drum below body. Since it's articulated, why not do a 4 motor, 2 esc setup like steinhdans bruder loader conversion with the 3d printer files? Can the model pass for the early ones that had no roof or ROPS? From back when your operating position was a steel seat on a spring because "why are you whining? the rest of the crew doesn't even get to sit!"
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"? It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time... |
#49
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ALWAYS have broken servo's laying around. ![]() ![]() The front drive, I don't believe is friendly (space wise) to doing that with it. I'll have to look at it again. I don't think there's enough room to place the motors in it, without some serious fabrication work to the pot metal. I'd do it now(look at it & see)......but after a 13 hour shift, PLUS morons playing bumper cars & CLOSING the freeway for my commute home, OH, AND couple that with traffic for the State Fair ![]() ![]() I think she's a bit too new of iron for the good ole days set up. No title on the old heap, got it for scrap price, but I'm guessing early to mid 80's model. Ya know, the more I ![]() ![]() Frizzen, I could give you a great big ole kiss right now! you're a freaking GENIUS, ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#50
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You've seen what stuff i build. Can't think inside the box, it was thrown away like 30+ years before i was born!
Servo winches work in my crane, and most of the smaller cable machines on the site. Either hack the stock board or get a baby esc. I'd just use the stock drum location as a pulley to drop the line to the hidden drum. I'd just get some square or rectangle brass stock and solder, just make an ugly simple ROPS, maybe slap a roof on top that's not quite square. A tree fell on it busted up the cab and hood, the welder just cut off the mangled original and 'bubba-ed' this together to finish work before the cutting permit expired. Do you want original, or personality? Makes it look mean. A lived in world with some grime is more interesting to look at than where everything is new and box stock. Perfect and new have their place, but if it works for a living it's not a trailer queen.
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"? It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time... |
#51
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Yeppers, I concur. Stuff that has some character is better than shiny new stuff. It's also more fun to build too.
I like the idea fir using the existing winch drum as an additional fairlead, & will be going that route with this project, as well as the idea of the cab too. Once I get done waiting in line at the Department of Vehicle Licensing, (long story.......sold brother a vehicle 2 years ago, he lost the title. I acquired the necessary paperwork so he could Xfer it 3 days ago. I misplace it, so I'm back AGAIN, waiting in the hour plus long lines) I'm going to double check the front axle & see if I can skeeterfy a front drive system, soon as I get home. I FULLY concur with the work isn't a trailer queen. I find it funny, some people at work, they keep the inside of their work trucks looking as they did on the dealership showroom floor. It's a frigen WORK truck, NOT a show truck, or a brand spanking new truck! LOL! |
#52
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#53
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Between Friday, & Saturday's mail, I got a truck load of packages delivered me. Time for some pics!
![]() ![]() As threatened, here's ALL the 3D printed parts for the ALL PLASTIC Bruder Mack conversion. One front tire has the bearing installed in it already. ![]() Here's the lucky candidate that's been selected for the conversion. The dump box on it is much LONGER then the other Mack conversion I've in the works. ![]() MAGOM HRC delivered me some parts for the D11. They DON'T offer ALL the parts for us self conversion types, but will throw us a bone.............................WELL, that's what I thought anyways! I ordered the Conversion hubs for the stock Bruder track sprockets. When I installed them, I noticed that I DON'T have a motor with a large enough shaft to fit them. Even the 4 or 5mm shafts of gear motors WON'T fill that hole. ![]() Here's a pic to show the gear motor shaft sixe, & the diameter of the motor mount hole in Mr Magom's mount. ![]() Luckily for me, I've learned to NEVER order only the parts I (THINK) need, but order back up plans with th em as well. So here's the back up plan. Magom aluminum D11 drive sprockets. They are suppose to mount to a continuous servo. All the servo adaptors I have (Sorry I forgot to snap pics of this part ![]() ![]() Well, that's all the time I have for now. I've got to run to the brotyhers place, & hand off that release of interest...................BEFORE I missplace that d@m thing AGAIN. |
#54
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F@#k me running! I spent over an hour, hunting & pecking out that message with this d@m keyboard, & thought I was careful to double check it, ONLY to hit post, & find typos
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#55
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To keep this thread from being
![]() Here's the Servo hub, after I modified it to work with the Magom D11 aluminum drive sprocket. Also a pic without the second screw installed, to HOPEFULLY show the distance that the 3mm screw holes are off from working with this servo hub as it comes from the factory. In the pic with one screw installed, the servo hub has been pushed all the way to where it WOULD have set, had I not modified the holes to make em work. ![]() ![]() Last edited by skeeter; 09-10-2017 at 11:04 PM. Reason: wrong pics included |
#56
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I've been busy working like there's no tomorrow lately. Today, due to a massive rain storm, work let out early.
![]() ![]() Here's the idea for the new drive sprocket mounts I came up with. I'm awaiting parts to mount them to the servo's ![]() This is the idea I've borrowed for the updated drive motors. They WEREN'T continuous servos, so I had to modify them so they would be. I chose this servo because it's got a 25 tooth spline, & I can readily buy servo mounts that fit it. ![]() ![]() |
#57
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One more pic, showin how much material was trimmed from the original drive sprockets. 11.62mm, according to the cheap harbor freight digital caliper I've got. I trimmed it with a 24TPI hobby saw. It wouldn't fit into the miter box I've got, so I free handed it.
![]() I used a hole ream bit to enlarge the center hole of these 25tooth servo hubs. i enlarged them just enough that they would pass over the hole. Once they were large enough, I used RED locktite to insert 2 screws in them. I placed the screws into the sprocket, & attached the hub to the sprocket with epoxy. ![]() ![]() |
#58
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I got home today, & had a metric tone of parts awaiting me from www.robotshop.com !
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Showing the Polish Hillybilly Redneck engineering I used to make the hubs mount to Mr Magon's drive sprockets. ![]() ![]() ALSO, there were a bunch of fergeli actuators that are for varying proects. ![]() ![]() |
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I left in a hurry for it was dinner time. I forgot to post the pics of all the actuators that came today. There's so much work here, my shop foreman, seen in the upper right hand corner, had a fit like a 2 year old, slithering on the floor, laughing, then crying, then cursing, & throwing things. It was a sight to see.
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#60
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when I arrived home today, there was a box from www.servocity.com
![]() I knew Ihad ordered it, but wasn't expecting it for a few more days. I noticed that with the previous D11 servo hubs, I had a slight rubbing issue. The mounting screws lightly rubbed on the (MODIFIED) continuous servo. The new servo horns are slightly diffent from the ones I installed yesterday. ![]() The NEW servo horns installed. I still had to slightly enlarge the mounting holes in them, but NOT as drastic as their predecessors. This time I used the dremmel (knock off cheap Harbor Freight) tool, & slightly elongated the holes. ![]() The NEW horns, with the yesterdays version shown, ![]() |
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