Gradall XL5100 V 1/14 Scale 3D Printed

[Krewmember]

So I build this XL5200 (The tracked version) earlier this year. Being a first design it had a few problems, but with some redesigned parts in CAD it still has a few quirks but overall is pretty reliable.

So looking to further approve the design I'm building a XL5100 (This is the carrier mounted version) also I wanted a painted model but I'm too lazy to disassemble the 5200 but willing design and build a carrier from scratch




Some CAD views of the carrier and upperstructure (Still a work in progess)








Let's start this build with a good chassis. It's 6x6 with locking differentials and walking beams to handle the upperstructure, the frame rails are cut down king hauler rails the axles, transfer case and planetary gearbox are lesu.










I'm trying to hopefully complete it to show at cabin fever. I will keep the updates coming.

-Shawn-

[sparkycuda]

Nice work! Gradall machines have interested me since seeing my first one back in the early 1960s.

[Zabco]

Very cool build. I also am a big fan of the Gradall. Fascinating machines to watch in action. Used to drive by the factory where they are made all the time. Will be watching for updates.

[Krewmember]

Motor and drive shafts came in mail today
It's a roller now. Still need to decide where to mount the locker servo.

Originally Posted by sparkycuda

Nice work! Gradall machines have interested me since seeing my first one back in the early 1960s.

Originally Posted by Zabco

Very cool build. I also am a big fan of the Gradall. Fascinating machines to watch in action. Used to drive by the factory where they are made all the time. Will be watching for updates.

They are really cool machines. The history of them is interesting as well, the book "The Gradall A Story of American Ingenuity" by Jim Grant is a good read.





-Shawn-

[Blender]

Absolutely eye-catching machine. Thanks for showcasing this. Are you willing to detail the functional improvements made to this newest version?

[frizzen]

Awesome looking first gradall! Any other pics of it?

Looks like a killer start on the new machine

Yeah, building a second, more complicated machine instead of taking the first one apart for paint seems pretty reasonable. Everybody needs a friend.

[Krewmember]

The fenders have been printed, filled, sanded, then painted. They turned out pretty good. Still need to print and install the tail and turn lens, LEDs too.

Originally Posted by Blender

Absolutely eye-catching machine. Thanks for showcasing this. Are you willing to detail the functional improvements made to this newest version?

Main and telescope boom have been reinforced with metal rods at the joints between sections. Due to size the booms have to be printed in sections, the joints between sections create weak points. The sections are printed with hollow ends and metal rods are epoxied in, after some testing the layers of the print will split before the joints break.

The bucket motor is a little weak, all I can fit in the telescope boom is a N20 type motor. Upgraded it to a N30 for hopefully more torque. May have to try a hydraulic cylinder. Will see.. The bucket motor mounting case split on me. Redesigned a fix hopefully.

I added ball bearings to the boom lift link to decrease slop.

The telescope boom is moved by a lead screw. The wires for the bucket motor wraped up in it. I redesigned it to have a internal wire track. Will see how it works.

The main boom was pulling out of the cradle bearings. A simple lockring was designed to prevent this.

The bucket can be changed just like the real machine. The bucket was hard to change due to poor clearance. A quick redesign of the bucket adapter fixed this.

The Swing motor has slop between the ring gear and the pinion. I decreased ring gear teeth by one to fix this (This is kind of a hack fix) to fix this properly I need the swing motor mounting holes to be slotted to allow for backlash adjustment. But I'm lazy at times


That is all I can think of at the moment. Probably forgot a few things.

Originally Posted by frizzen

Awesome looking first gradall! Any other pics of it?

Looks like a killer start on the new machine

Yeah, building a second, more complicated machine instead of taking the first one apart for paint seems pretty reasonable. Everybody needs a friend.

I will probably end up rebuilding XL5200 at some point with updated parts. And painted of course.




-Shawn-

[Krewmember]

The frame is ready for mounting of the upperstructure. Here is the base of the upperstructure it took about a month to get it to this state. Lots of printing, reprinting, filling, sanding and more sanding and finally paint and decals. It was worth it I'm really happy how it turned out.














It is mounted to the slew ring assembly with 8 m3 screws.





And mounted on the frame.. I also installed the cab and electronics cover. The cover has magnets to hold it down.













-Shawn-

[Zabco]

That is really a great looking body, very nice work. That's the biggest problem with 3d printing is that it takes so much work and time to really get a nice finish. I think it takes more effort than doing body work on a real vehicle.

[Blender]

Moving fast on this.you're serious about the cabin fever deadline.

How will the truck vs upper structure electronics be sorted? Two receivers and pass power through the slip ring? Send power and servo signal through slip ring? Or entirely separate power systems?

[Krewmember]

Originally Posted by Blender

Moving fast on this.you're serious about the cabin fever deadline.

How will the truck vs upper structure electronics be sorted? Two receivers and pass power through the slip ring? Send power and servo signal through slip ring? Or entirely separate power systems?

The plan currently is to have two receivers, power passing through the slip ring. The slip ring is "allegedly" rated for 1.5A per wire. So about 9 amps totel and the largest motor on the model has a stall current of 3.8A. My frsky x9e can run two receivers simultaneously. I plan to run a mix to switch between digging and driving.



-Shawn-

[Blender]

Originally Posted by Krewmember

The plan currently is to have two receivers, power passing through the slip ring. The slip ring is "allegedly" rated for 1.5A per wire. So about 9 amps totel and the largest motor on the model has a stall current of 3.8A. My frsky x9e can run two receivers simultaneously. I plan to run a mix to switch between digging and driving.



-Shawn-

Good option. The modern radios make this so much easier compared to a decade ago.

[Krewmember]

Front fenders and bumper mounted.











-Shawn-

[Krewmember]

Got the fuel and def tanks finished and installed. Also got the lift arm and rod for the main boom installed, a fake hydraulic cylinder for the offside as well.















-Shawn-

[ddmckee54]

Shawn:

I've got a couple of questions on your body-work. What type of filament are you using? Do you sand the layer lines out, or do you fill them in? If you fill them in what are you using for a filler?

Don

[Mikem]

What a beautiful machine !

[Krewmember]

Originally Posted by Mikem

What a beautiful machine !

Thank you. I'm a gradall nut, so this is kind of a dream build for me.

Originally Posted by ddmckee54

Shawn:

I've got a couple of questions on your body-work. What type of filament are you using? Do you sand the layer lines out, or do you fill them in? If you fill them in what are you using for a filler?

Don

I'm currently printing with Inland brand PLA plus. The "plus" is just a slight incease in strength and temperature resistance over regular PLA I'm planning to switch over my future builds to ZYLtech PETG.

For finishing parts I sand dry with 220 sandpaper or 180 if the surface is rough. I don't go crazy, just enough to knock down thr high spots. Then if the surface is flat or large I will use glaze putty "Evercoat Metal Glaze" works good for me. For small details or curved surfaces or I'm too lazy to mix mud I will use a filler primer "Rust-oleum filler primer" is what I'm currently using. I'm looking for something better it clogs sandpaper easily wet sanding works. I will apply 2 or 3 heavy coats then sand with 220 till mostly smooth then apply 2 or 3 light coats sand with 320 dry for a "good enough finish" 320 wet gives a better surface. And then 3 or so coats of paint.






-Shawn-

[ddmckee54]

Evercoat is good stuff, I've used it before on styrene models for filling seams and gaps.

[Krewmember]

The steering servo and linkage is installed.








-Shawn-

[Krewmember]

Main boom and cradle assembly is done.


















-Shawn-