Solidworks help... Track pad

[Newcastle]

I have started using solidworks, and I am trying to design a track pad. I have extruded this picture so far, but now I dont know how to cut out pieces for the chain links or add bolt holes. Can anyone help?

[pugs]

Select a face to put cuts or bosses on and then click the view normal to button (looks like an upward arrow with a wide flat base. Then click on new sketch, draw the shape, then cut or boss it up. If there is no flat surface where you need to build a new sketch then you will have to build a new construction plane through one of several methods, all are pretty self explanatory.

[PrimeRigg]

If that doesn't help, go to youtube and look up solidworks tutorials.

[Newcastle]

Worked a treat. Thanks mate :-). I have looked at a lot if tutorials. I am learning as I go slow and steady :-)

[cdm]

Bolt/screw/hole wizard in SW is pretty easy to work with

hang on let me get it started for a screenshot



right up there. you generally want to define it prior however.

you can also make threaded holes, through holes, limited depth holes, countersinks, hex cap holes etc. i suggest you keep like holes in groups, apply them when and where then place by clicking checkmark.

looking at your pad it looks like you got the hang of it quite well

[Newcastle]

Ok, so this is where I am up to, I have to re align the hles on the track pad to fit the chain link better, but I am having a lot of fun with this process. Oh and this is for a D11 that I am designing. That hole wizard is great. I just had a go of it and it makes things a breeze.



Any tips are very helpful thanks guys.

[D8R]

This is my way of doing it!

Splitted parts, 3/4/5mm steel plates


Together


Made (silverbrazed together)

Dan

[Newcastle]

I am considering placing nut retainer spaces in my chain links. It is a little tricky though because the links are so small. Can you get away with doing alloy track pads and chain links? Or do you recommend steel?

[cdm]

2024 alloy should suffice

[Newcastle]

So this is my tracks with the pins in. They will use an M3 bolt through the track pad and in to the threaded chain link, the chain link pin will be clamped in by the two chain links. I just wish I could some how put in nut retainers for more realism.

[Newcastle]

I think I may have to start a build thread in construction equipment now. Lol

[D8R]

If I'm not wrong you should have the pad turned around. The grooser(?) should be on where chain is as wide as possible.
/Dan

[Newcastle]

Originally Posted by D8R

If I'm not wrong you should have the pad turned around. The grooser(?) should be on where chain is as wide as possible.
/Dan

I'm not quite sure what you mean mate. Can u possibly show me an example?

[cdm]

Originally Posted by Newcastle

So this is my tracks with the pins in. They will use an M3 bolt through the track pad and in to the threaded chain link, the chain link pin will be clamped in by the two chain links. I just wish I could some how put in nut retainers for more realism.

you could if you go down to m2 10.9 or 8.8 steel bolts will hold. the problem is the threads will probably get caked in/rust and seize during future disassembly; same for m3 though

else circlips like everyone else does (i hate assembling these things though lol)

i actually love your idea of using the pad to clamp the pin from both sides....

[Newcastle]

If I use m2 bolts I could probably fit in nut retainer holes. Do you know a website that does high tensile bolts that small?

[cdm]

i use mcmaster carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#screws/=lr4my2

i just wish they had binding posts in metric tho.

[Newcastle]

Also where I work ATM building a lot of stuff for the mines we just out lanolin grease on the bolts and it keeps them pretty much rust free.

[Newcastle]

Originally Posted by cdm

i use mcmaster carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#screws/=lr4my2

i just wish they had binding posts in metric tho.

I got locked out from this site for doing abnormal searches. Lol. Fail.

[D8R]

Well grooser is the wrong word,mean the high comb or flange on plate, this end should be where shoes are wider, please look in this vid at 10sek, if you stop you will see what I mean.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfkprEuFg6o

Not to be picky, only trying to help, position this or that way will not effect the amount of work, only giving a result like the proto.
Dan

[Newcastle]

Originally Posted by D8R

Well grooser is the wrong word,mean the high comb or flange on plate, this end should be where shoes are wider, please look in this vid at 10sek, if you stop you will see what I mean.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfkprEuFg6o

Not to be picky, only trying to help, position this or that way will not effect the amount of work, only giving a result like the proto.
Dan

Thanks for the advice, I only have vol 1 of the parts manual which so happens to leave that part out, lol. I need vol 2. I will conduct some changes as im still not happy with the chain links.