Scaleart - assembling an Arocs 8x8 roll on roll off kipper

[Rakthi]

Doors - Part 2

Not really the doors, more the sides of the cab.





The black plastic strip is fastened with 3 self tapping screws



Next we screw in the galvanised iron screw that the magnet will stick too. (I cut that one in half, half way thru screwing it in it became pretty hard to do, and worried my screwdriver might slip out of the slit resulting in a big scratch ...



Next the fender/step part of the cabin. Held in place with one regular M3 screw and 2 self tapping ones. The indicator lights i painted orange yesterday and trimmed and fitted them already.





Both sides finished, the right side has the extension on the black plastic for the dead angle mirror.



Next step will be the front of the cabin that will hold these two bits together.

[Rakthi]

Oh dear, today was the "comedy of errors"

No clue what happened. Must be getting old.

Next step, as said, the front of the cab.

All the parts needed.



Reverse of main pieces



First I started with inserting the pins into the holders. These are the pins that go into the front locking mechanisme on the frame. (you can see the grooves at the top where they flare out a bit)



I could barely push them in the holes, so had to run a 2mm drill through them. Then needed a rather heavy hammer to drive them home.

Next i installed the black metal piece and the speaker. So far so good.



Prepped the 2 stainless steel parts for installation and installed it. (forgot to take picture)



Turned over the part and put the 2 separate black plastic grill bits in place. They will be held down with the next part.



The outside part of the grill goes on top.



And gets screwed in with 2 self tapping screws from the back on the far left/right side of the black plate holding the speaker. The 2 previously installed stainless parts I had put on the wrong side of ledge they screw on too - and to think I checked a couple of times to make sure :roll eyes: I only noticed this when I tried to fit it to the locking mechanism.



Supposed to look like this ...



Next I wanted to attach the back of the Mercedes Star ... it screws in from the back ... so had to remove the speaker for access



Also almost used the wrong kind of screw ... Needs to be a regular countersunk one.



Installed





After sorting the stainless supports, test fitted on the front lock



And tilt works fine too



In the above picture you can see the holes that will be used to attach the sides of the cabs. The hexagonal shaped ones will hold the nuts and the middle one is for the little wind guide on the side.

[Rakthi]

Now bolting the sides to the front

The two M3 Allen bolts go through from the inside to the nut on the outside.
The whole thing is neatly designed. However ...



The door has a rather big gap ... Reason is why I have the red circle above. The casting is too rough at the hinges. Will need to be filed down. Apparently this is because this is one of the first batch of Arocs made. The later ones do not have this problem.



The other side same problem



Didn't yet sort it out. Just bolted it up as it was. Will sort it out tomorrow.

Both sides installed





And a quick fit on the frame to get an idea. (Cab leans too far back because it's not properly supported yet)



So I guess tomorrow I will be filing away at the door frames

[Roundabout]

nice updates you do, didn't think it was that long ago i took a look last, but **** there has happened a lot, keep up the good work!

[1strodeo]

I can't even imagine how much this kit costs,, don't get me wrong,, its pretty amazing looking but , wow

[Rakthi]

Hi Roundabout ... When I started on this I figured to bolt some things together on and off over the weekend for the next year or so, but turns out I keep putting things off to make time for this kit. Guess I spend about 2 - 3 hours every "session". Kind of addictive this thing ... actually been eying the bank account to see if I could swing another kit ... scary ...

1strodeo, nope not cheap, price is somewhere on page 2, post #36. But must say, worth every penny (or is that Eurocent). Just looking at the details and finish of the parts makes it worthwhile.

[1strodeo]

Wow,, that is up there, ,but it really is a beutiful kit,, and super detailed.. I can see how it could be addictive.. But really isnt everything in this hobby. Good luck with it, can't wait to see the finished product.

[Rakthi]

Hi 1strodeo, kind of can't wait myself to see it finished. But I don't want to rush it either.

++++++++++++++++

This part is the roof and the visor. This also includes the sound module that gets attached to the roof. This is still with the SMX one, If you check the ScaleART on-line shop, the trucks being sold now are with the smaller SM7. Maybe that one can go under the cabin.

The usual picture of all the necessary bits (excluding the screws)



First I put the roof lights in. (This being an early production cabine, I had to enlarge the holes to fit the LEDs from 2mm to 3.5mm)



Then remove the lens from the mold (or whatever it is called) and test fitted. The visor opening needed to be filed a bit at an angle.



Having done this at both sides (hardly visible) time to attach the visor to its support.



Easiest is to start with the 2 in the middle and then do the ones at the corner. (the size of the nuts/screws make this one of those colourful language moments )



Shorten the screws and then tighten the nuts with the 2.5mm driver



Mixed some 2 component glue to fix the lenses for the LEDs



Applied with one of those dental tools with the fluffy bit cut off.



Whilst waiting for the glue to set, continue with the rest of this assembly

The roof hatch and its fastener. This is partly L shaped so the sound module can not shove forwards. Gets screwed together with 2 self tapping countersunk screws.







Followed by the sound module ... can't make up my mind how to install it ...





Can go in both ways ... will have a look see at the paperwork that came with the electrical package to see how and where all those cables end up. And I better find a way to organise them a bit too.

As for the visor ... the glue might be fast after 20 minutes, but it will take 72 hours for it to really set ... Bummer ... figure I better wait, I tried fitting it, but even after one hour the LED still succeeded in pushing the lens a bit out.

And yes, I filed the sharp ends of those screws.



Guess I will pass the time with sorting wiring, prepping back of cabin and starting on the seats and other interior parts.

Till next posting
Stephan

[Newcomer_2]

Hi Stephan,

this is really a fantastic building report! - The cables of the sound module beneath the roof you can organize for example in this way:

5_AROCS_FH_Dach_2014_11_30 (4).jpg

6_AROCS_FH_Rückwand_2014_11_30 (13).jpg

I'm looking forward to your next update and stay tuned.

[Newcomer_2]

Ohhh ... I can´t see my uploaded pictures! ... Hmmm?!? ... I'm probably doing something wrong.

You also can have a look on my Facebook-Site. There you'll find a photo album which shows the assembly of the AROCS driver´s cab. You might find some pictures concerning the cables.

Link to the photo album: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...4207815&type=3

[Rakthi]

Hi Christian, thanks for the link! Will be a great help now and further in the build. Now I can double check my interpretation of the technical drawings.
Looks like a good thing I finally found a place that sells shrink tubing in different sizes here on the island.

Cheers, Stephan

[Rakthi]

So yesterday I finished of the roof and the rear of the cab







Re-installed the Sound Module with the cables split up and put into shrink tubing as per Christian's suggestion.



Then on the back of the cab



One of the 2mm screw holes not completely drilled through



The parts that need attaching. (the rectangular air vents I glued in with super glue)







This is where it locks onto the chassis.



Next part is the air inlet

Filed the back of the grid a bit down so it fitted a tad better.







Only one self tapping screw and washer used in this

[Rakthi]

Today, I started off with the SMX Sound Module ...

Took it off the roof again and had a good look at it. Turns out the bit under the cooling plate is basically empty with the plate seemingly just sitting on one chip. I figured it made more sense then to install it with the heavier parts towards the roof.



I also took off the shrink tubing I had put on yesterday. I had tested a couple of times, but unlike Christian (Newcomer_2) I could not get the wires with the shrink tubing to go through the cable channel provided. I guess the "Made in China" tubing available here is thicker and less flexible. So ended up bundling the wires with bits of shrink tubing.

The top wire bundle is power and speaker, the middle single one is Function 3 which is not used according to the electrical plan, and the bottom bundle are the rest of the wires. (hookup esc etc)



So I tried to program it as in the Servonaut Manual ... I left the bottom bridge on the pins for the in-line 6 cylinder engine (checked MB website, and Arocs have an in-line 6 power plant), and took out the top pin to start the programming. (wanted to turn off the peep-peep when going backwards - can't stand that sound)





Didn't cut off the cable for Function 3, just tucked it under the unit in the space left there by the roof hatch.



Roof goes on with 4 M3x8 screws and some lock washers.



Then the back goes on. The little pins go in the holes provided. The wires get tucked into what will become the wiring channel.



The reason I had to take of the shrink tubing is that I couldn't get a decent bend near the roof. This way it was easier to control.



Back bolts onto the roof with 2 m3x6 and 1 M3x8 (in the middle). It bolts to each side with 2 M2x8.



The m2x8 go into these provided slots on the sides.





Continued ...

[Rakthi]

Tried the cabin on the chassis.





Tested the locking mechanism







Now time for the air intake to be put on. (takes 4 M2.2x6 self tapping screws). 2 in the roof and 2 in the back.



Alerted by the pictures in the link Christian provided, I knew there would be a problem with the locking mechanism interfering with the intake. So only temporary screwed on with 2 screws.



So a bit of plastic had to go. (the cut will be cleaned up)



Now proper install of the intake. Found that it was easiest to first do the top part.









Next up would be the interior of the cabin.

[Rakthi]

On with the next group.

We start of with the windscreen. This could not be installed earlier otherwise wouldn't be able to attach the intake.

Consists of a window, front cover and 3 self tapping screws



The window needs to be bend a bit to get behind the sides. Also need to be aware of good positioning at the roof. I got mine stuck wrong on one of the screws of the visor. And I got some paint damage in the lower corner form not paying attention when bending/inserting it. Lucky the black cover goes over it.



Gets all fastened on the inside. Access through the bottom. Was very happy with the bendable extension I have. Was worried the screwdriver would jump and scratch the plastic.





Next the floor parts. Assembled with countersunk screws.







No way I can glue the optional carpet on when installed in cabin ...



So attach the needed screws. Already complicated enough getting the "carpet" on straight without having to deal with screws all over the place. (Carpet can be repositioned if not right first time around)





Both side pieces attached first, and the center piece goes in from below. Had to loosen the nuts from the side pieces to make it easier to get the center bit in place. Very tight tolerances.







Continued ...

[Ken Orme]

Thank you for posting all the pictures of the build. It must have taken as much time to do as it did to build the kit.

Ken O

[Rakthi]

Hi Ken, taking the pictures doesn't take that much time at all. Just a cheap autofocus camera that is not too good at close-ups. My other one was better but that one became unreliable and started losing pics. This is the third build where I take pics, has become part of the process.

Getting the nuts on some of those screws takes way more time.

Anyway, glad you like it!

Best regards!
Stephan

[Rakthi]

Finishing of the cabine - Part 1

Started with the seats

Left the passenger seat and right the driver's seat. Neatly packaged and best not opened together and parts mixed as there is a definite left and right seat.



Started with passenger seat





These parts supposed to be glued together with super glue, but after I test fitted them they were solid as can be. So left them as they were. If I ever find the right material I can then make a miniature safety belt like the guys in Germany do.



Screws on to base



Seat cushion next



Bolts on from below with the same self tapping screws (one you do not see because I used one of my black ones.



Passenger seat right side



Left side



Both finished



Next steering wheel and steering column

The covers get glued on with super glue.



Make sure the square nut is well seated. In this picture it is not right. sits too high and then the cover doesn't fit.



Sticker of instruments stuck to the provided piece of plastic



The steering column attached to the driver's side dash with 2 M2x10



Top of the dashboard and passenger's side. The little part is painted in silver by me. Only part I put some paint on. Don't trust myself to paint the little buttons etc.

[Rakthi]

Part 2

Other side



Prepping to put the parts together



Here missed some pics - got distracted by the cats who caught some critter and let it loose in the house.

Missing step is screwing the lower part of the dashboard on.





Prep the whole console for installation in the cabin. Gets attached with 2 M3x6. Lazy and just took the ones that were used for painting.



Installed. The left one had to be removed otherwise can not get the console in place. Getting that one screw in is about the most difficult part of this whole job.



Now the seats go in. Also install screws before inserting in cab. Slots are provided for that in the base





Next is the mirrors and other miscellaneous bits. I didn't take pictures here because it all gets glued together with super glue. Don't like working with it as it sets fast and you can't afford mistakes.

Not a difficult job really. Here is picture of the page in the manual



Part of the mirrors were labeled wrong. The bigger part of the main mirror needs swapping L en R. Pic is of the left mirror. The mirrors can be adjusted.







That's the driver's cabin done with. Now back to the more interesting bits which is finishing the hydraulics. Probably start on that later in the week.

[apfubar]

Looking good!