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  #1  
Old 08-12-2020, 10:54 PM
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Default Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

Well my Ford 7710 project is still only a 'ruined toy' needing front end parts that i'm poorly equipped to fabricate. I figured i should restart with an easier tractor, and come back to it later. I needed a Narrow Front or something that already had articulating steering, so i stumbled across these.



Without knowing anything about either of them, the one on your Left looked like a great basis to start with. Soft rubbery tires, enclosed hood instead of engine detail, Narrow Front wheels, says cock, little wing steps above rear axle, pretty cool looking lines.

Plan right now: pair of 200 rpm 12v gearmotors, a mg90s servo, 10a esc, 2ch radio, some 2/3A nimh cells. Punch couple holes for switches, charge port, and antenna 'exhaust pipe'.

I'm only planning to use it to pull stuff with the drawbar. I don't think it's worth setting up a 3-pt hitch, or trying to make the mid-mount cultivator things.

It's not an Ertl, but it is still 1/16 scale diecast metal just like their tractors.

Once i figured out this much, I've been doing some research on it, and the Cockshutt 70 is a Row-crop tractor built from 1935-48. Seems like they were built by Oliver, and sold in Canada. Hart Parr 70 / Oliver 70 / Cockshutt 70.
--
This machine seems to have been made by 'Spec Cast' and apparently lost its rear fenders somewhere along the way.

{Nope. Made by 'Scale Models' out of Iowa, by an Ertl after they sold the name}

I also ran across a place that sells toy tractor & equipment parts in 1/16 scale.
http://www.dakotahtoyparts.com
I'm seeing some stuff that would help my 7710, the Barber-Greene loader, and all kinds of stuff that would look great on pallets for my forklift.
Also
https://www.chuckysprecisionspullersandparts.com
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Last edited by frizzen; 01-19-2022 at 03:59 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-13-2020, 08:22 AM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

This one only had 2 rivets securing body halves.

Chop off axle tubes, make gearmotor holes, glue motors under the wings, backfill some glue from inside chassis. I could have narrowed the rear track closer to stock, but thought it'd play in well with the endless debate about Tricycle vs Wide tractor stability. They were scared and put wideners on it.

Chop down the front axle steering tab, glue a vertical tube to steering, make an ugly linkage.

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Old 08-13-2020, 06:14 PM
ddmckee54 ddmckee54 is offline
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

50 years ago when I was a farm kid, one of our neighbors was fond of Cockshuts and Minneapolis Molines. I don't remember them having a 3 point hitch, just the drawbar. Hydraulics were still a "new" thing in the time when this tractor was built.

Does it have the belt drive pulley on it for running stationary equipment? That was pretty standard equipment on a tractor up until the 60's.

Don
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Old 08-13-2020, 09:38 PM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

Thank you, i'm interested in whatever you might remember from these.
I knew that in this time it seemed like nearly every brand had to have their own attachment method. I'm just a suburb kid that was at least in 4-H. Help point me in the right direction.

This one does not have the flatbelt Drive wheel on the side, but i'm seeing that some of these model 70s were equipped with them. It's a 6 spoked wheel. Once i can play with component layout inside, i might have to see if there's room for like an N20 gearmotor and switch to run one.

It looks like the 70 came in: Row Crop, Standard, Orchard, and Industrial.
Row Crop, narrow front
Standard
Orchard, had wide front, lower, and fairings to lift branches over tractor
Industrial
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"?
It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time...

Last edited by frizzen; 08-13-2020 at 11:58 PM.
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  #5  
Old 08-14-2020, 06:07 PM
ddmckee54 ddmckee54 is offline
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

We're recovering from storm damage around here and this is the third time I've typed this, lost it before I could get it posted both of the other times.

The narrow front end was what my Dad preferred for a tractor. He thought it did less damage to the crops as you turned around at the end of the rows. He was the one buying the equipment so who was I to argue? We didn't buy our first "big" tractor with a wide front end until '72.
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Old 08-15-2020, 12:17 AM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

That sucks, hope your area gets squared away quickly from that!

I knew that narrow would fit between a row, and is more maneuverable for trailers and stuff. I hadn't considered damage at the ends of the field.

I'm testing out if JBweld will be enough to hold the steering linkage tube to pedestal, or if i'll need to redesign my plan a little and fire up the Mig.
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Old 08-15-2020, 10:17 AM
jerry56 jerry56 is offline
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

You know what I've thought about trying is the panel adhesive they use for the new Ford aluminum body panels, if it can stand up to body flex I would think it would be strong enough for an RC truck...maybe...
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Old 08-17-2020, 04:53 PM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

JBWeld will have plenty of strength for that.

Just be sure to roughen things up a bit to give it a little tooth to grab onto, and be sure you de-grease things before you try gluing them together.

Don
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Old 08-17-2020, 10:00 PM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

The gearmotor axles were first superglued (CA) to the little wing bottom, then i filled around the back side with e6000 (shoegoo / amazing goop). Should be strong enough, but shouldn't be awful to replace.

My first steering setup using (end of the tube) Jb Weld didn't hold, but CA seems to be working. Probably going to beef it up with some CA & baking powder paste. Servo is bonded to chassis side with e6000.

The 12v 200rpm motors wired Parallel and running on 7.2v really winds out faster than i'd like for a tractor without ROPS, so i'm going to try them in Series. (it does drive pretty well with everything ziptied to outside.)

--
Uh, apparently i can't read and i bought "2/3AA nimh" cells instead of the "2/3A nimh" cells i'd searched for.
And my soldering iron died.
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"?
It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time...

Last edited by frizzen; 08-18-2020 at 11:35 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-19-2020, 03:45 PM
ddmckee54 ddmckee54 is offline
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

You can always use the trick that RC Tractor Guy on YouTube uses for some of his 1:32 scale RC tractor builds. Stash a larger battery pack for the tractor in the implement the tractor is towing. The power connection looks like hydraulic hoses to the implement, and you've usually got room in the implement to hide a much larger battery pack.
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  #11  
Old 08-20-2020, 06:59 PM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

Yeah, so when i mentioned it was little too quick i had frankenstein-ed it together for the test run.


But it worked.

So i punched the rest of holes in the bottom for a Charge/Run switch, a female JST charge port, and ESC switch.



I'm going to be keeping almost everything mounted over in the Left side of tractor because the front wheel locating bosses were on that side. This way to open it: roll to left, pull the 2 screws (that were originally rivets), lift right half up, undo 2 connectors and the halves seperate.

Ordering the wrong cells probably was a good thing, i was able to build up a 5 cell pack that fits in the other half of hood without much trimming. It's only like 650 mAh instead of 1500mAh i wanted, but not like i'm racing.

Mounted a pilot light to the dash, it just plugs into an RX open channel.

I had considered trailering the battery, but really wanted to be able to change equipment, all i have right now is a 4-gang disk. Plus like you said, there wasn't much using Hydro back then.
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Old 08-21-2020, 04:45 PM
jerry56 jerry56 is offline
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

On your charge run switch, did you just used a 2 position switch (on/off) as a charge/run where "charge" goes to the battery and charge jack and "run" goes from the battery to the ESC switch then still use the ESC switch as an on/off...

You knew I would ask...lol
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Old 08-21-2020, 07:00 PM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

I knew, but i thought you'd find this before i got it all tested out and tried to get decent enough pics to answer your thread. Yep I just used a 3 pin, 2 pos switch. You've got it on my wiring.

Right leg to jst Charge +
Center leg to Battery +
Left leg to Esc +
Then i just spliced the Charge, Battery, and Esc negative wires together.

Since it's mounted on bottom of vehicle it follows the convention of Aft is On. If switch gets bumped on something while moving forward, it still runs. (Any other mounting orientation that's not on bottom, i would use 'Up' or F'orward' for ON.)

My layout is Esc switch by Nose wheel, aft is on (marked '1' / '0' )
Charge port is between switches, closer to charge switch
Charge switch is furthest aft. Aft is Run, and closer to Charge port to charge. (Marked 'R' / 'C' )

-
Then i also learned that tfe2x heatshrink that i *WAS* going to insulate it with doesn't soften until hotter than the melt temp of wiring insulation, cell wraps, and glue holding cells in the battery pack i was building together. So it did the right thing and smoked off 2 cells. Great...
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"?
It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time...

Last edited by frizzen; 08-21-2020 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Boiling batteries
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  #14  
Old 08-21-2020, 07:27 PM
jerry56 jerry56 is offline
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

I don't feel so bad about melting the back bumper on my truck now...LOL
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Old 08-21-2020, 09:17 PM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

Heheh.
Oh yeah, mistakes and accidents just go along with not building a Kit. There are no directions to follow, and the materials may not always play nicely together. Makes it interesting and keeps you on your toes.

I'm not like Bob Ross was where i don't make mistakes, but sometimes i can get a "Happy Accident".
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"?
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Old 08-22-2020, 04:40 AM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

I think we're realistically about 95% done now.






Drill & mount an exhaust stack for the antenna. A bent tip or tractor flap would be the normal way to top that off, so maybe stick a Coke can on top.

Paint the axle tubes, change seat color. Cream grille and lower stripe. Maybe *very light* weathering?

Figure out who wants to be the operator, make them a seatbelt.

Buy & make awesome impliments!!!
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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"?
It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time...
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Old 08-22-2020, 09:33 AM
jerry56 jerry56 is offline
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

I like the "on" light....since everything is concealed...probably wouldn't have thought of that.
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Old 08-22-2020, 09:23 PM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

Who wants to ride my Cocksh

Oh, that was quick.

A Disk Harrow is the only implement i've got, so far. Why don't you go take it over to the field.


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What do ya mean "Cars are neither Trucks or Construction"?
It's still scale, and i play fairly well with others, most of the time...
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  #19  
Old 08-25-2020, 08:00 PM
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

I've been getting this a bit more squared away and putting some run time on it.

I do not have room to run a Drive wheel for Flatbelt power equipment.
I also do not have room to run a rear PTO.

My exhaust stack is coming up vertical through the hood, will have a bit of a muffler bulge. What way do you guys think would look best to top the stack: Open, a Can upside down, or tractor Flap?
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  #20  
Old 08-26-2020, 05:10 PM
jerry56 jerry56 is offline
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Default Re: Cockshutt 70 tractor (1935-48)

the can would be classic LOL...but you have to take it off before you drive it.....

BY the way....just wondern is that the.. hmmm... farmers daughter..??
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