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Construction Equipment If it digs, pushes, hauls dirt "off road" post it here. |
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#121
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looks great Stefan
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RIP FreddyGearDrive 2-12-59/12-19-11 To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#122
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Thanks! The material for the wear rings for the piston as well as for the "wipers" is PTFE, the "whiter" looking white. The smaller, slightly transparent wear rings for the piston rod is from polyamide PAS 60. No deeply founded rationale for the choice, but simply what I had available. You assume right: Self made. Not sure the "wiper" will actually wipe (that´s my reason for the quotation marks
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#123
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Stfen I don't know if you come up with a wiper for you cylinders yet but I needed a wiper and a o ring for Liembach cylinder and went to my local place that rebuilds cylinders and the parts guy came up with what I needed for the wiper it was some kind of a semi hard fiber it worked great. Ed
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#124
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Thanks for the fiber stuff tip. I spent some time with the CAD program (pretty long, actually
![]() The cylinder portion, bevel inclusive, is 19 mm (3/4") in diameter by 11 mm long. Stefan Last edited by Stefan; 11-07-2017 at 02:02 PM. Reason: Link repair |
#125
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i am simply awe struck to see the amount of work and detail that people like you and D8R are putting into your creations. I've always loved rc and dremped of such a detailed model but you guys are putting it down in metal WOW!!! and from scratch. My dream is to do such a thing with an excavator so you all can count on me following your stories. Thanks joe [little giants] for leading me here, an awsome forum no doubt!!!
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#126
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Stefan, glad to see you are still working on the Volvo. When I look back at all your photos again, and everything you've machined, it really is humbling. I'm not a machinist by trade, but I do try to get by, making parts for my own builds. I have a good night on my mill, now and again, but the parts I make are so simple. If I start feeling good about what I do machine, but then see what you are capable of, well, it sort of just humbles a guy and helps him realize he's got a long way to go, and a lot to learn, before he can think about building something like your grader. Then again, I do not mind feeling humbled in the light of your work, as long as you keep sharing more photos of it, and the process you use to make your parts! Always learn something new each day.
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Nathan |
#127
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Wow, Nathan, you made me speechless for quite a while there
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#128
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Stefan, outstanding work you doing, really impressive!
What lathe and mill are you using? |
#129
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Thanks. Both machines are from Wabeco; one F1210 mill and a D6000 lathe.
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#130
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Ok, i have been looking around for a new lathe and have looked at the Wabeco ones, seems like really nice machines, if i have the money someday i will pick one up! Thanks!
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#131
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WOW! just WOW!
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#132
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I agree WOW
greg |
#133
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Found some more pictures, and, since Nathan amongst others (me included
![]() So this is how I aligned the piston rod with its ring head during soldering. Note the small ring of solder paste around the piston end. I found the result to be rather sensitive to the amount of solder paste. Too little, and the solder did not fill the joint properly. Too much, and the solder spreads all around the correct place. What you don´t see in the picture is the small stub (1.5 mm, 1/16" long) at the end of the rod inserted in a corresponding hole in the ring. For maximum strength the fit should be loose to leave a ring shaped gap for the solder to enter. I made the hole about 0.15 mm (6 "thou") oversized. The next pic I just shot to show how the solder was added. I´m not so good at adding the right amount manually for these delicate jobs, so I bent a piece to fit around the rod and stuck it in the paste. When the water in the paste boils those small pieces of solder tends to move away from the corner, so have some pointed object at hand for pushing them back. Stefan Last edited by Stefan; 11-07-2017 at 02:10 PM. Reason: Link repair |
#134
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Thanks very much for posting that! You've just taught me how to do something and I appreciate it!
Reg |
#135
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Thank you for the appreciation, Reg!
Meanwhile I made adapters for the chain wheels. Using off-the-shelf clamping sets. Thanx for looking Stefan Last edited by Stefan; 11-07-2017 at 02:12 PM. Reason: Link repair |
#136
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Here some pics of the drawbar assembly:
The scale thickness of the side plates is 2,5 mm, but only 3 mm (1/8") was available, so I removed 0,5 mm along the edges. Now they at least look to be to scale. Luckily I found stainless balls of the correct to scale size (18 mm). They were glued with epoxy resin to the stub. Thanks for looking. Stefan Last edited by Stefan; 11-07-2017 at 02:19 PM. Reason: Link repair |
#137
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This is another amazing excellence scratch build. I know you milled some metal off to make thing perfect but only you would know but then again if you are like me that would drive me craze knowing I didn't fix it. Ed
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#138
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Crazy build, crazy skills! Keep it up Stefan!
Kalle |
#139
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Some of the circle guides. Plastic strips will be added later to form the actual glide surfaces.
Stefan Last edited by Stefan; 11-07-2017 at 02:22 PM. Reason: Link repair |
#140
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Talk about attention to detail...
You actually milled the thickness down to scale (or close enough). Looks like you are building a clock if one didnt know better. |
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1:8, grader, volvo |
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