Trailer Tips and Tricks

[fhhhstix]

I use 10/32 in all of my builds but the dump trailer and it is 3/8 fine thread. The dump trailer was my first screw drive and I did not think about the fact that the sliding block would carry the load and the all thread just had to move it. All of my screw drives push from back to front. For gear reduction my traler is 32:1 with a 65 turn 540 lathe motor the two dump trucks are 50:1 carson gearmotors and the dump pup trailer is a black & decker $10 screw driver from Wall-Mart.

Travis

Originally Posted by steamer

Travis This question is directed your way. First thanks for starting this thread ,as there's going to be lots of question coming your way. First one is, You seen to have used lots of different all thread sizes, does that depend on the load weight or the length of stroke for the slider. What rpm gear drive and torque power seems best. Whats the best lift action, to push from the front to the back, or back to front. That's it for now. Thanks

[ihbuilder]

Originally Posted by fhhhstix

I use 10/32 in all of my builds but the dump trailer and it is 3/8 fine thread. The dump trailer was my first screw drive and I did not think about the fact that the sliding block would carry the load and the all thread just had to move it. All of my screw drives push from back to front. For gear reduction my traler is 32:1 with a 65 turn 540 lathe motor the two dump trucks are 50:1 carson gearmotors and the dump pup trailer is a black & decker $10 screw driver from Wall-Mart.

Travis

travis , I have to correct you on 1 small thing . the thread does carry the load and the greatest of the load in the down position . your force is transfered from the motor through the thread to the carrier to the push rod to the box . now for our purpose a 10/32 treaded rod is plenty but you start increasing power and weight your gona brake something . most likely the thin threaded rod could start to bend or the body will push out at the rear hinge or in the front where your rod is connected . now like I said for what we do all the screw drive I've seen are sufficient , even over kill

IHSteve

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

travis , I have to correct you on 1 small thing . the thread does carry the load and the greatest of the load in the down position . your force is transfered from the motor through the thread to the carrier to the push rod to the box . now for our purpose a 10/32 treaded rod is plenty but you start increasing power and weight your gona brake something . most likely the thin threaded rod could start to bend or the body will push out at the rear hinge or in the front where your rod is connected . now like I said for what we do all the screw drive I've seen are sufficient , even over kill

IHSteve

Exactly Steve the block holds the weight and the rod provides the push.

[steamer]

Thanks guys, that helps a lot. I have a large sheet of paper in front of me right now and trying to put this down on paper. I've got the Rod thrust bearing and a piece of nylon for the slider and I'm just figuring out the length of the push rod. Looks like it's about 8". What's the normal tip angle for the box to empty, I've used 45 and hope that's high enough. I think now that I should have waited before I ordered the gear motor. I only ordered a 34 rpm and it's going to be way too slow. Look like it would be better in the 150 rpm range. Anyhow, thanks again for the help as I'm getting more on track.
Rob