Scaleart - assembling an Arocs 8x8 roll on roll off kipper

[Rakthi]

Yes, Prop, Roundabout, the parts of this kit are really something else. Pictures just don't do it for the detail and care with which they were made. They also keep updating and improving the parts, even on this kit. It is expensive stuff, but it sure is top of the line as far as building kits is concerned. Having a brass one must be interesting! There still is a section called "Brand Modelbau" in their shop. Mostly small detail stuff for US trucks.

Well was set to post the rear axles stuff, but we are having a tropical downpour here and internet is slow as a poke. Will see if I can get the pics uploaded.

[Rakthi]

Rear axles .. here a picture of all the parts. (forgot the leaf spring bits)

The bits in the "ScaleART" plastic were in the boxes with the axles. The other parts were in the "rear suspension" package.



Note: this whole assembly was done with the frame upside down - just to make it more interesting.

First we assemble both triangular parts. Turns out the everything (marked with arrow) is threaded. So a bit of thought has to go in the assembling.



After giving it a couple of trail fittings in the chassis, found out it was not going to be that easy. The triangles have to be installed so they can still easily move up and down. It takes some fiddling to get it just so. A bit of grease where the bushing is going is a great help. Before the bushing, screw and nut would move together. After applying the grease, at least the bushing, screw and nut didn't budge when moving the triangle.



Here they are installed. (Loctite applied to about everything)







Next the leaf spring packages. I replaced the silver phillips screws with hex head ones I had lying around from the Capo. (easier to install with a ball head driver than a philips screwdriver) Apply grease to the inside of the hole where the bushing goes and attach to the lower of the 2 holes (or higher when working upside down). Loctite applied to the inside of the threaded bushing.







Next prepping the actual rear axles for installation.



First connect the bit that will attach the axle to the triangle. This part has a cut out in the centre that fits over the stainless steel part and the bottom is also slightly rounded so it sits perfectly on the axle casing. On top, one of the holes is threaded, the other is not. So 2 little nuts I thought I would need are extras.

It is also a good idea to first test the fit of this little piece on the triangle (how do I know?) ... One of them needed a bit of widening before it fit.





axle ready to install



Rear axle attached to the triangle



Both installed and balancing on the leaf springs. (connecting the axles to the triangles is another one of those moments that invites the use of colourful language )



Next we need the 4 track rods. Manual states to set them at 50mm and if needed do adjustments later once wheels and fenders are installed.









View right side up



Whole frame from above



and upside down



And as point of interest ... these are the bits left over from the packages supplied. Never even opened those that came with the axles.



Next supposed to do the servos for the diff lock and the bowden cables, but might put that of for a bit. Probably will assemble the wheels and fenders next. Just to get the thing on wheels.

[Prop Shaft]

Originally Posted by Rakthi

Yes, Prop, Roundabout, the parts of this kit are really something else. Pictures just don't do it for the detail and care with which they were made. They also keep updating and improving the parts, even on this kit. It is expensive stuff, but it sure is top of the line as far as building kits is concerned.

Like i said, if they offered something in 1:10 scale, i would be forced to buy it.
Just gorgeous stuff!

[Louisbaby]

Simply a masterpiece...

[Rakthi]

Started assembling the wheels. The front ones just bolt on, the rear ones need to be bolted together.

The front gets a wide tire. The rear 2 thinner ones each side.



Didn't get around to putting them on the axles. So only the rear ones.



The little rubber bit is to hold the black cap on.



Here too we add the little decorative bolts. No need to drill the holes out, most of the little bolts just slide in. So some Loctite applied to the holes. 3 of them "escaped" not to be found when doing the 4 caps. Good thing they provide some extras.



Only 3 of the 40 installed needed a tap with the hammer



First install the rubber ring on the centre piece. Would be a pain afterwards.



Then simply slide the 3 parts together and fasten them









Instead of bolting them to the axles, decided to do the diff lock servos. This turned out a real pain.

First prepping the servo horn and add the bowden cable holder. (Holder needs to be installed so it can still move a bit)



Servos and other bits ready to be installed. (each servo is for 2 axles)



These were a pain should have installed them earlier.



Luckily access from underside. however none of my wrenches fitted through. Ended up holding the nut in place with a pair off strong tweezers and screwing a long M3 bolt where the grub screw goes. Then tightened up by using the M3 bolt.



Front axles servo installed - horn in the diff closed position.



The one for the rear axles should have been installed before the axles. Almost no access to the screws. The 2 bowden holders were a struggle too. This one too in the diff locked position. Unlocked will be 90° turn towards the leaf springs.



Almost had to remove the axle to get to the screw that holds the servo.



Have to remember to install the support bracket for plate that will hold the electronics before I get in a tight mess there too.

Worn out ... Cheers!

Stephan

[Rakthi]

Since I reminded myself, I installed the supports for the electronic platform

This need be done now. Once the drive train is in, no more access to that area.





A bit tight to install because of the steering rod. Another area that will need some touch up later on.



Other side was easy



Next up the cover of the diff lock servo of the front axles.





A nice detail, there is a slot just slightly bigger than the plug of a servo so you can stick the wire through.



Next front wheels





The protection ring just sticks on. This one clamped in place by itself, but the 3 other ones will need a bit of hot glue or some other sticky stuff if I don't want to loose them first time around.



Rear wheels. The washer and nut are the only thing I used from the package of fasteners that came with the rear axles













Next up is supposed to be the motor, gearbox, transfer box and prop shafts.



But, waiting for exhaust pipe that needs to go on before all the above goes in.
Want to wait with the bowden cables to, to see how they work with the motor etc.

Guess I'll just read through the book and see what I can do in the mean while.

[Prop Shaft]

Cant wait to see the engina and trans on this thing!

[Rakthi]

I'll post some pics of it tomorrow. Once it's in the truck it is barely visible. Not as impressive as the one on your Jeep though. Ready assembled and greased too, just like the axles.

Think I take a break for a couple of days, back hurting from hovering over the model trying to get a handle on those nuts and bolts. And actually should finish varnishing the front door ... for some reason I haven't have found the time for that

Stephan