Charging jack

[jerry56]

To install a charging jack can I simply go to the "off" side of the on/off switch and solder in a charging jack. I assume with the switch off the rest of the circuit ie the truck would be isolated from the charging voltage is that correct or there something else that needs to be done.

[frizzen]

That way should work if you're talking about a Master power switch somewhere between Battery and everything else that disconnects positive lead of the battery. If you mean the switch that turns off the ESC power to RX, then No.

Maybe throw a diode in there to ensure it can't somehow send reverse polarity to battery.
Maybe stick a fuse on there at next value higher than planned charge current.

However, I would NOT suggest doing this if you run LiPo batteries or some other chemistry that's known for being unstable or heat generating. Charge them outside the model, it's just safer.

[jerry56]

I see....so either a "master" power off or a diode....this is for the Bruder Delta loader, D5 and 963 and anything else that is a pain to get apart to take the battery out of. Just need to work out how to wire it and/or what value diode.
I'm using an NiMh not sure how I feel about LiPo yet. I haven't looked into them much yet just seen some of the horror stories....

[frizzen]

I would definately do a battery Master switch if there's no planned way to actually pull the battery plugs apart.
Your esc even Off will still pull some power and it can eventually destroy cells if left connected.

It'll have like an Off/Charge position and Run position. Wire the Battery + to center leg, esc input + to an outer leg, charge jack + to opposite throw outer leg. Then you can just hook the - wires all together.

The diode to make sure you can't apply power backwards is good practice. However if you're running a connector type that already does polarity protection it's not as much of a requirement. Panel mounting something like Deans or JST that already has an industry standard and can't be connected incorrectly, i'd probably be ok without one. If youre going for Barrel or Ring-Tip kind of jacks, i'd absolutely put in a diode.

Nimh should be good to go for internal charging. Make sure your battery won't get very warm charging at the planned amps before you button it up.

[jerry56]

Ok so I'm thinking a DPDT switch battery on the middle two pins, the charging jack on two pins and then figure out a simple way to power the esc or the esc on/off switch off the last two....Just need to come up with a clean way to do it.

[Wombii]

Edit again: I reread the thread and realized frizzen already said pretty much all this, and I completely missed it the first time. New glasses are on their way though

My only two possibly useful additions then are:

By the way, my master switch wiring was done without soldering. Just snipped, stripped and crimped flat spade connectors like in a car.
My switches are 12v 30A which is probably overkill.
I used a Wago clamp for the black wires.

Make sure the switch you buy actually has 3 connections and not just 2 for on/off which some master switches will have. (Mine is only on/off(no connection) ).

[jerry56]

I was thinking of using these...
https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-DP...ustrial&sr=1-6

[Wombii]

Those are nice and compact and easy to mount, if a 6A rating is enough for your vehicles.

[jerry56]

LOL I hope 6A is enough...I thought about just switching the ground or negative side and tie the hots together...not sure it would make a difference...

[Wombii]

The current will be the same either way. I'd probably feel safe using a 6A switch in a 1:16 wpl truck, but not in a heavy 1:14 Tamiya truck on rough terrain.

[jerry56]

I might try it on a couple Bruder conversions...but I don't like having to wonder if it will fail on another model ....I'll keep looking around....thanks for the input.!!

[Wombii]

What I don't like about shopping for switches is the lack of info. Some specify details, but most don't. How are we supposed to know if it's rated for 6A spikes or 6A continous? Is it heat limited? Or is 6A the max load while switching because of arcing and it can take more while not switching? Or is the rating just a precaution to make it survive for the x*1000 switch cycles the manufacturer claims?

If it were to be 6A continous and 15A spikes you could just see how long your battery lasts and guesstimate. 3000mAh battery lasts for an hour = 3A average load. But without it specifically saying that, I'm not personally comfortable putting in a master switch with a rating of much less than the ESC rating (or estimates for servo amps, my rule of thumb with safety margin is a couple of hundred milliamps for a loaded mini servo, 1-2A for a struggling standard servo)

Please keep in mind I'm not a switch expert. Many fast toy-grade r/cs use a switch that size, so I'd assume a low geared lighter vehicle like a bruder conversion would be absolutely fine with it.

I would love to hear from someone more experienced with these types of switches for r/c purposes. I went completely overkill with my switches but would love to not have to do that next time.

[jerry56]

That's exactly the problem I'm having. There just isn't enough information with most of these switches to make a educated choice... Plus I don't know enough yet about how much current some of these smaller conversions use...

[jerry56]

Well I got those switches...OMG they are huge !!!! How do they get away with using those tiny micro switches on an ESC that's what I'm looking for