1/25 6 Axle Lattice Crane

[Southgate]

Greg, here's a rundown on the outriggers. They are a project unto themselves!


Each arm is milled from 3/8x3/4 aluminum bar. The inner parts of the arms are flat, the majority of the arm is flanged. the tops and sides of the flanged parts are cut a bit narrow so that when painted they won't get scratched off when sliding in an out (done manually. On the real crane I copied, each outrigger is operated by controls on each side the outrigger box itself, not from the cab)

Here are the basic components.


The aluminum "box" is square tube, and the plate that separates the arms is 1/8"flat bar. It has channels milled into it , and the arms hava a screw in them to stop the arm at full extension. You assemble the set, insert it in the box and small screws hold it in place.

L shaped brackets attatch to the boxes. (the box goes through it) and pins drilled in the "L" fix it to the frame on the carrier. Thes can be pulled for easy removal of the assembly for loading on transport trucks when weight restrictions require it. (OK, they will look really cool as a flat bed load when they're finished!)


Steel rod connectors, (I think they are called) are used for the jacks. They are hex shaped with threads on the inside, Home Depot sells them. To attach them to the arms, a round end was turned on the lathe.


A hole is drilled in each arm, the jacks inserted and held with a dab of superglue.


These brass tubes were worked to make the outer jack cylinders




They are superglued just enought o hold them in place, a clay dam was made. Then a piece of aluminum tube the size of the inner ram was liberally coated with vaseline and inserted up from the bottom to creat a space for the permanent rams, then the whole thing was put on a piece of clay to seal the bottom. Casting resin was poured into the top of the cavity, it is what holds the outer walls in place, and makes a solid top and bottom of the ram cylinder.




The resin was some old stuff I had on hand, and expanded out the top. I cut it off and filed to shape.


Now, this tube will be attached to the screw, and will move up and down with it, looking like a ram. I'm going to try to find a piece of antennae that has a chrome finish to look better than aluminum.



The picture with the screw didn't turn out. They will actuallyprobably be "operated" by turning the screw from the top by a small slot cut in the screw. This will be hidden so as not to look like a screw, and the feet of the jacks will hide the screw head there.

I hope this answers any questions, if not, feel free to ask! Dan

[ihbuilder]

Dan , have you looked into these http://banebots.com/pc/ELECTRONICS/BB-0309 I may be getting a bunch of them

IHSteve

[JAMMER]

Dan you are doing some nice work there keep it up. Ed

[Southgate]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

Dan , have you looked into these http://banebots.com/pc/ELECTRONICS/BB-0309 I may be getting a bunch of them

IHSteve

WHAT!!!!!!????????

(in my whiniest voice)
Where was this info when I was paying way too much for the ESCs I'm using!!! Oh, if only I had found you guys about a year ago!!! (WAHH!) It would have saved a ton-o-munny, two tons of hard work figuring out how to make this thing work, and about a cubic acre inside that freekin upper unit!!! (snivel, sob)

If you only KNEW the grief I went thru! I had 4 ESCs in the upper unit, all powerful enought to start a real D-8 Cat on a cold day. They wouldn't work on the rotation (slewing) motor, it would jerk very erratically at best. So I replaced it with TWO larger ones to consume enough current to register with the ESC (read: machine out a whole additional motor access and mounting apparatus) Didn't work. Was better, but not acceptable. Then I got to remembering how smooth it ran on tethered DC with a train control for speed, right? I gutted an MRC train power pack and put a servo on the speed control pot, wired it to it's transistor, and that to the motor. All hiding in the bodywork. Works extremely well, but uses a lot of space and 2 channels, speed and direction

BUT!!! (sniff...drying up a bit now)

It's not too late. Please tell me those controllers can handle loads in the 100 milliamp range smoothly,at hyper low speeds? huh-huh-huh? (Just barely pouting still)


I'll be able to convert the slewing back to one channel , making for easier operation, and I'll have that whip line (small lighter duty, faster drum) back in the crane so fast on the 4th channel yer head'll spin, or at least mine will. this will still leave more room in the body than there is now. (starting to smile a little)

I knew there had to be a way to remote control low speed low drain operations. Had no clue where to start looking. Robotics! Shoot, there are probably tons of forums...

Thanks Steve!!!

Greg, do you have a picture of the log loader and outriggers you are talking about?

Thanks for looking, and watching a grown man lose all composure