Classy Shak

[Dreamweaver]

Hi Gent's,

Ok well I had to play some more to day.

I decided I did not want to lose any of the details from the engine, like the oil filter ect. But at the same time I wanted, and needed, the engine to be lower in the frame, thus the reason for turning the oil pan.

I accomplished this by notching out the frame, not like some have done where they just notch out for the oil filter. That would not have been enough to get the engine low enough in the frame.

I was not sure it was going to work so rather than screw up my new rails, I used some stock ones that I got from Semi Joe.(Thanks Joe)







I then made the front motor mount like they real things.







This got the motor sitting right where I want it. I just hope it will clear the axle... If anyone with a stock height KH could measure from the bottom of the frame to the top of the axle and let me know what it is, I would appreciate it. I am sitting 1 1/32 from the bottom of the frame to the drain plug, which is the lowest point that could interfere.




NOW FOR SOME REAL DETAIL

Well someone, I think it was Paul, mentioned the detail I was putting into this truck. I made the comment back that he had not seen anything yet..


Well maybe the following will show the level I am going for. I have seen a bunch of pics of these trucks with this engine in it but I have yet to see one with this kind of detail... Oh ya and this is JUST the start. Still to come a Radiator, Air-to-Air cooler with all appropriate plumbing, Engine Fan with fan belt.

Notice that there is now only one turbo.... None of that Acert crap... This is a real C15 polluting, fuel guzzling, hill climbing Kitty Cat....










The detail I plan on putting in here is the main reason why I added the inch to the hood originally, Well that did not work out so I had to set the engine back into the cab a bit.

Judging from the pictures of Semibigrigger's install. I only moved mine back about 1/4 to 3/8 farther back than his. And he was still able to put in that full dashboard and kick panel..

Beside It will give me a place to put some chrome and some light and make it so that you can see the reflection of the back of the motor..

Stay Tuned...

-Mike

[Dreamweaver]

Hi All!!..

I did a little more detail work on the engine today.

I scratch built a fan for it. Mounted it and used a real fan belt.














The blades at the widest are 5/8 so if I did the math right that would be 8.75" so they are just right. Rough measurements leaves me just under 7/8" from fan to end of hood. There should still be enough room for the radiator and air-to-air cooler.



-Mike

[Dreamweaver]

I had a Brain storm, or at least I think I did. Hopefully when I tell ya what it is then it won't end up being a Brain Fart...

I went to a couple sites that were furnished by Steve on another thread. The site had all sorts of servos.

Looking at the sizes and what Nate told me. I found a place to put the servo for the steering that would be completely trick....

BUT I have to ask questions because I have not got a clue at all about the RC part of this...Give me a train and DCC and I can do anything with it.. RC.... Not yet!!

So my first question is.. Can you extend the shaft from the servo to the part that the steering link would connect to?

Here is my idea.. If I can extend the shaft, and with the size of the servos. The best coolest place to put the servo would be Ready for this...

Inside the engine.

The hole for the stand that the engine comes on would be a perfect place to put the thing through. I think just from eye-balling it it should be just slightly forward of the axle.

So will this work, can it be done. I figure I will have to extend the shaft on the servo by about 1/2" max...

Any and all comments and help please...

-Mike

[Dreamweaver]

Hello All,

Well today I built my mirror brackets. I modeled them after the 2006 to present brackets. All I need now are the mirrors.

I even built the blind spot mirror "L" brackets.





Nice and straight...





Just like on the 1:1 trucks, all that sticks out past the sleeper is the mirror and the outside hoop.





Making progress..





Got the sleeper ready for paint, and the cab is just about there.

-Mike

[Dreamweaver]

Howdy,

Well I got the paints picked out to day, and I got the painter at my families body shop to agree to help me paint the truck. (later got to finish it first)

Since I can not find a paint chip of the color, I will post a pic of my 2006 "Award Winning" Pete show truck. I am using the same exact colors as on this truck. Boy I really loved this truck.. Some farmer in South Dakota owns it now, minus the sleeper.



And the inside with my 1st place plaque.




It's a little hard to see to much of the purple, but it is a stock Peterbilt color so we have the paint code for it at the shop... easy to make the painter says.

This picture was taken in SLC at the SLC truck show August of 2006. The truck was just right at one year old.


This was my third show truck that I built. (keep in mind I never owned any of them, I was just stupid enough to spend my hard earned money on them) I got this truck brand new (25 miles on her, plastic still on the seats, bed, and carpet in the sleeper) I was driving for one of this companies owner operators. He decided to pull his truck off their fleet and go back to running under his authority, so when he did that JFI asked me to stay with them, offered me more money and then bought me this brand new truck. The truck I was driving for the owner operator was also a show truck, my second one to be exact.

This truck was bought straight white, no lights or anything else. They gave me the keys a phone number to the local Pete dealer, and a phone number to the man that did the vinyl graphics for the company, and then told me go have the paint, lights, and graphics done how I wanted them...

I designed the graphics my self on this truck and had the finders painted this purple and all the lights put on it.

In the second picture you see the peddles, I built those out of Red Oak. NO ONE but me ever drove this truck while I was assigned to it. The mechanics would have to do all the work on the truck either why I was there, or I would pull it in and then they would have to call me to come take it out or leave it inside till the next morning when I got there. The whole time I drove this truck to the best of my knowledge no one ever wore shoes inside the truck.

First thing in the morning when I would get up I vacuumed the floors and seats, wiped down the dash, washed the windows inside and out, and then weather permitting I would use my California Duster on the paint, and every time I stopped I would dust it again.

I was always anal about my trucks, and because of that I was always rewarded with new trucks. I have been driving for 23 year, and in that time I have had 19 brand new trucks all of which had never been driven other than at the factory and around the sales lot.

These have been just about even between Pete's and W900's maybe just a few more Pete's.

I know these trucks like the back of my hand, inside, out side, top to bottom, all I have to do is think of a part and I can see it in my mind.

-Mike

[Dreamweaver]

Howdy All!!!

Well today I think I lost it. I spent 6 hours building the radiator for the truck and the core of it won't even be easily seen.

I used all but 1.5" of one 12 x 6 sheet of .010" styrene to build this.

I first sent the sheet of styrene through my paper shredder to achieve several 9/32" wide strips. The strips came out with a slightly serrated edge which I left it gave quit a good effect.

I then took some of the strips and chopped them up into 1/16" pieces. Then the fun began. I cut the other strips into pieces 2 1/4" long then welded 5 of the little piece to that then laid another strip on that and kept going from there till I had a core 1 1/4" high. ( I did this in two parts that is why the crooked line of the spacers But I am not re-doing it.)

Then I built a fan shroud for it, and a top and bottom tank with the hose connection. (Bottom hose connection not shown in pictures)

Now You have to look just right to see the core in the shroud and I am now going to build another one slightly narrower for the charge air cooler. So therefore when that is done you won't even be able to see the core on the radiator, but hey at least I know it's there and accurate, and now you all do as well..









-Mike

[Dreamweaver]

Well today I received an envelope from Lynn. (tc1cat)

I asked him to make me basically a brass washer 1/2" in diameter with a 2-56 hole in it. I needed this part to finish the air-to-air on the motor. Well with out pause Lynn got them made and to me.

So today I got the air-to-air all but finished, I still need to build the core for the cooler it self, I got to wait till Friday when I can get to the hobby shop and get some .010 x .156" strips. (Two paper shredders but they both shred at 1/4") I got the case made last night.

I got the mail today at 3pm and had this completed by 4:30.













Lets see if anyone can explain this. Look in the last picture of the front of the engine looking in the end of the hood. Now look at the distance between the frame rail and the hood on both sides. The right side of the hood is closer to the frame rail, which means the hood is not sitting right.

Now I have taken a straight edge and went from back of cab to the end of the hood on both sides and measured the gap at the point where the hood meets the cab. I get exactly the same measurement on both sides.

I have measured the hood standing on end at the same locations on both sides of the hood and get exactly the same measurements.

I have measured the new cowling where the hood meets it on both sides and get exactly the same measurement.

I have taken a straight edge and placed it next to both frame rails and they are straight.

I have measured under the cab from the same spot on both sides to the frame, Yup both the same also.

No matter where I measure I come up with the same measurements on both sides of the truck, but the hood still don't fit square.

If I move the hood over to where I got the same measurement at the front of the hood to frame then I have just slightly over a 32nd of an inch gap on the left side of the hood at the cowling.

Anyone got any ideas?




I also got the sleeper mounted finally. I made some L brackets out of brass and attached them on the outside of the frame using the top crossmember bolt and then attached them to the floor supports on the floor of the sleeper. Just like they did the old rigid mounted sleepers.

I then got the stacks remounted with the mounts in the proper locations and used some aluminum cone washers as the spacers.

It's hard to see in this picture but the stacks are flush on the outside with the side of the sleeper, and this time they are actually straight both up and down and front to back. Of course it is a good thing you can't see the part of the stack where the holes go. **** it only took me drilling 4 sets of holes to get it right.. Well 5 sets if you count the first ones I drilled. I must have been brain dead but the way I drilled the first holes, well lets put it like this. I could use them holes to mount the pipes to the front of the sleeper.



-Mike