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Highway Trucks and Trailers On road trucks and trailers single and twin axle trucks.


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  #1  
Old 08-12-2011, 07:58 PM
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Default Re: Classy Shak

Howdy everyone!!

Well in between dinner at my home for my family on Christmas Eve, and then dinner at my brothers house with all my family again along with my sister-in-laws family on Christmas day, I managed to get a lot done. (Since I am such a social person...NOT)


I really did not like the fenders being up so high, don't know why I put them there in the first place, but anyway I lowered them down to where they are supposed to be and then made the outer lip of the fenders and the front fender support.

If you were to look at the drawing of the truck you would see that the front fenders wrap down to the tire line on the sides.









I also made the filler panel for behind the inner fenders.






I rebuilt the hinge for the hood and now the hood opens fully over the bumper as it is supposed to. the only down fall is that there has to be a larger gap between the bottom of the grill and the top of the fender than I wanted, however if I want the hood to open like the 1:1's then that is the price I have to pay.






I also got a BUNCH of holes drilled.

There are the nine on the top of the cab, and the nine on the top of the sleeper. Yes I know the middle and the one to the right are to close together. That is a lesson learned about using worn out drill bits. I had a pilot hole but the point was gone on the bit and it walked on me. I made the holes oblong just a bit and should be able to get them mounted at the right space with out noticing it. Then on the cab I copied the slant of the windshield into the mounting of the lights and got them so that they should follow the windows, all except the last two outside ones of course they came so close to the last outside stock holes that if I tried to drill exactly where they should be it would have wound up in the stock hole anyway so I put it there. I don't think it will be that noticeable when finished.



Ok here is how the lights will be:

48 On top of each side of the sleeper. 96

48 On the light bars under the sleeper. 96

27 Under the doors and on the filler panel. 54

14 On the back of the sleeper. 14

15 On the rear bumper. 15

18 On the top of the cab/sleeper. 18

1 Pervert light on the mirror. 2

1 Bumper light. 2

6 Stop, Tail, Turn lights on the back of the Whale Tail. 6

For a Grand Total of 303 Chicken lights on the outside of the truck alone.

There will also be lights inside the cab. There will be lights in all the gauges on the dash along with a left and right turn signal indicator and a high beam indicator. Then there will be accent lighting under the truck.

Good thing I have room for batteries.







And the 14 on the back of the sleeper.



I also got some better pictures of the mirrors Lynn made for me.






I have changed the plans a little bit and I will not be putting Brian's steps on the truck. I am going to take a styling Cue from my friend Jeff England (Owner of Pride Transport) He had a Pete that he entered in the '03 SLC truck show (The same show I entered my JFI, white and purple truck in)

They are hard to see because I was taking a picture of something else and not focusing on the running boards and steps, plus they are black, but anyway I am going with something like these.







So that's it for this weekend.

Please let me know what you think about what I have done with the fenders.

Or anything else for that matter.

~Mike~
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:59 PM
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Default Re: Classy Shak

Well then you have to also take into count the 53' trailer with one every .5". Lets see that's 45" / .5= 90 x 4 = 360 and then 7.25" / .25 = 29 x 2 = 58
that's 58 x 360 = 418 just on the top and bottom rails and the top front and back. Then add the S.T.T. lights = 6 and then the lights on the front of the spread axles so that is 7" / .25 = 28 x 2 = 56 so now you have a grand total of 480 on the trailer and again not including ground effects lights.

So 303 on the tractor and 480 on the trailer... each pulling 20mA.

Someone else will have to do the math on that, I know how to wire them but I suck at math.

Lets just say a few LiPo's needed.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:00 PM
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Default Re: Classy Shak

I am working on the front half (cab section of the running boards now. Pictures to come this weekend I promise.


I have been rethinking some things, and I am thinking of changing some things because of funds.

I was going to buy four steps from Brian, but cash is tight so as mentioned before I have changed the design which after looking at it I think I like it better this way. Everyone has either steps like Brian's or the stock steps, but I have yet to see anything like what I am doing now.

I also have decided to forgo the stainless for the light bars under the cab and sleeper, the fuel tanks made of aluminum or Stainless. One of the main reasons for this is because I can't afford $80 for a 12 x 12 sheet of stainless and risk messing it up trying something I have not done before.

I thought about just making them out of brass and then having them chromed along with all the other stuff, but then I found out that there is no one here that can chrome plastic (Side Boxes) so what the plan is now and I think it will look cool specially with the new running board and steps.

I am going to make the tanks out of styrene and paint them the purple with the Stainless tank straps. and that will make it so that everything below the cab and sleeper will be purple with the exception of the tank straps.

Like this



Also notice on the picture that I decided to keep the full length running boards.

Now here is my next thought. I was planning on getting the full function air ride suspension from Tolke. However since getting him to get me a price is like pulling teeth, I was also looking at the EBH simulated air ride. Well I have come to the conclusion that with the full running boards and the full fenders and the back bumper, the only way you would see the air ride is if I was holding the truck up. Plus PMD now wants $130 per axle for them and I don't have that kind of cash, then I WILL be using the RC controls rear ends which cost $200 as it is. So I am thinking I might just go with the stock rear suspension.. Not 100% on that yet, but if I want to get this thing done before next year I need to cut costs.

SO hold on Paul and everyone else I will get some up by the end of the weekend.

~Mike~
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:01 PM
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Default Re: Classy Shak

Hello All,

I got a little work done on the steps tonight and while sitting here watching glue dry I noticed something missing under the hood, so I handled that problem as well..


First the steps









Notice that I also got the pilot holes drilled for the lights. I made the light bars for the sleeper tonight as well. I will get pictures of them later when I get the holes drilled for the led's.

The top of the step is exactly half way between the bottom of the door and the running boards. The steps are 21" scale inches wide by 8.75" deep.


Now on to the under hood problem. Every day at least twice I either have to say, or hear my students say during their pre-trip, "I am going to check my steering column, my steering gear box, my pitman arm, drag link, and tie-rods.

Someone had mentioned earlier in this thread, I believe it was Nate, that he would like to see a bunch of things. One of the things he mentioned was a functioning steering wheel.

Well I will have one for sure now, the hard part is finished.

I made a functional steering gear box. I took some 3/8 styrene tube, then went down to the forgotten RR stuff in the basement and found my spare locomotive worm drives. Now of course if you know how these drives work, you can only turn the worm gear side, so because of this I have the worm gear attaching to the pitman arm so that when I turn the truck the steering wheel will turn a bit.









~Mike~
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