Stupid mfu that keeps shutting down

[rc_farmer]

To get your blinkers to work properly, you may have to do a couple of things:

1. adjust the position of your knuckle-rod on your servo horn.....
the blinking function will work at a mininum EPA setting, i.e 80% and above....this may vary slightly with radio brand. Having said that, if your servo rod is farther out to the end, you may get over-throw before your blinking function will work, thus binding your servo.

2. once you get you mechanics set, you can then adjust yoiur End Points to the desired throw all the way to 150% or as far as your servo will travel w/o binding.

[Acadieman]

Originally Posted by rc_farmer

To get your blinkers to work properly, you may have to do a couple of things:

1. adjust the position of your knuckle-rod on your servo horn.....
the blinking function will work at a mininum EPA setting, i.e 80% and above....this may vary slightly with radio brand. Having said that, if your servo rod is farther out to the end, you may get over-throw before your blinking function will work, thus binding your servo.

2. once you get you mechanics set, you can then adjust yoiur End Points to the desired throw all the way to 150% or as far as your servo will travel w/o binding.

Ok, I'll give that a try.
I changed my radio's joystick configuration. Ratchet is now on the left stick, for left to right. That was a bigger job than I planned, and did not know how to go about it.

[Acadieman]

Originally Posted by rc_farmer

To get your blinkers to work properly, you may have to do a couple of things:

1. adjust the position of your knuckle-rod on your servo horn.....
the blinking function will work at a mininum EPA setting, i.e 80% and above....this may vary slightly with radio brand. Having said that, if your servo rod is farther out to the end, you may get over-throw before your blinking function will work, thus binding your servo.

2. once you get you mechanics set, you can then adjust yoiur End Points to the desired throw all the way to 150% or as far as your servo will travel w/o binding.

How do I know if the servo is binding?
I moved the knuckle rod inward on the servo horn. I played a bit with the EPA settings for the steering (cha 1) and the option channel (ch 2 for my case). I also adjusted the D/R on ch 2 until I got the channel to work at switching the light functions while maintaining the high beam and horn function.
I assume I'm close, as for every ten times I try the blinkers, they work.
I also cranked the EPA on the streering to 140% to get more streering angle. Should I bring it back down and concentrate on ch 2 functions until I get the blinkers to work every time?

[Supermario]

Since I got into this hobby not long ago, all my radios have been 2.4 ghz. The first had digital trims so couldn't run the extra functions. The next had analog trims and I got all functions but the unit can have its bad days. Very sensitive, do something too quick or if everything isn't just right , you can't switch modes.
I have learned to deal with and can recognize when something isn't right but I knew if my wife was going to enjoy the hobby and enjoy her truck I needed something more reliable.
I heard that FM radios work well with a MFU but require an antenna unlike the 2.4 . I purchased a Airtronics FM radio for her truck.
I am absolutely amazed at how well and trouble free this radio works on this truck! All commands work on first attempt, engine never shuts down on its own! So easy to run! And the antenna issue was easy to deal with.... I secured the antenna wire to one of the exhaust stacks. As far as I see it, the stack is copper, not sure what the chrome may effect but, so far so good ( indoors )
For almost a year I just didn't know any better and lived with 2.4 issues. Never again, I will be switching my truck to FM also! .....
Anyone looking to buy a couple 4ch 2.4 radios??

Mario