4200XL Pump Motor Problem

[cdm]

so did u notch it and put the screws against the notch? rc4 is prenotched i believe to begin with

[A1 Dirt]

No - This is a NEW replacement motor. It should have been ready to roll as received. I expected it to be OE (guess it was, it failed).

The motor shaft is smooth. I took the original motor apart and there are no notches or flat spots. I don't intend to take this one apart.

Depending on what I hear from RC4WD, I'll probably try knurled cove point set screws, then cone point, then cone point after drilling a detent.

As a last resort, I'll try a retaining compound. I called Loctite and the lady said that Loctite 290 is a wicking threadlock that can be used as a retaining compound. The only problem might be the shaft/housing tolerance - too tight, too loose, or just right.

There are a few warm, sunny days forecast and I'm anxious to get this digger outside in the dirt

[cdm]

Originally Posted by A1 Dirt

No - This is a NEW replacement motor. It should have been ready to roll as received. I expected it to be OE (guess it was, it failed).

The motor shaft is smooth. I took the original motor apart and there are no notches or flat spots. I don't intend to take this one apart.

Depending on what I hear from RC4WD, I'll probably try knurled cove point set screws, then cone point, then cone point after drilling a detent.

As a last resort, I'll try a retaining compound. I called Loctite and the lady said that Loctite 290 is a wicking threadlock that can be used as a retaining compound. The only problem might be the shaft/housing tolerance - too tight, too loose, or just right.

There are a few warm, sunny days forecast and I'm anxious to get this digger outside in the dirt

you are complicating things for yourself and im not sure why.

take a small file or a dremel and notch the shaft where the grub screw digs in. problem solved.

why would there be notches inside the motor?!



see that slot/notch? thats what gets the grub screw to bite..

as you see their motor IS notched.



maybe the new versions of the bager don't have that but it should. the pump is cross drilled like their (vehicle) shafts and thats where the screw has to be alligned to bite pump side.

[Espeefan]

Originally Posted by cdm

you are complicating things for yourself and im not sure why.

take a small file or a dremel and notch the shaft where the grub screw digs in. problem solved.

why would there be notches inside the motor?!



see that slot/notch? thats what gets the grub screw to bite..

as you see their motor IS notched.



maybe the new versions of the bager don't have that but it should. the pump is cross drilled like their (vehicle) shafts and thats where the screw has to be alligned to bite pump side.

Chris, I think you are mis-understanding the original poster's problem here. His out-runner's bell housing, which has the magnets inside of it, is slipping on the central motor shaft. He isn't saying the motor doesn't have a flat on it, on the stub end, where a gear, or pulley would mount.

[A1 Dirt]

That's right - other end of the motor. In the Pic - one set screw in - one out.